tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30847744142792740732024-02-08T17:25:20.943+11:00Belinda's blogI live in Bundeena, Sydney, Australia. I work in education and art. I am Belinda, and this is my blog.belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-75038578873268005372023-05-21T18:38:00.004+10:002023-05-22T11:20:47.618+10:00Vietnam - Cat Ba to Haiphong to home ...<p> CAT BA ISLAND</p><p>A very quick stop, just to do a boat tour of Lan Ha Bay, the quieter southern part of Halong Bay. The island is mostly national park, and hosts lots of activities like climbing, hiking and kayaking, so I shouldn't have been surprised when our small tour boat was full of backpackers - I think we were the oldest by several decades! So funny to hear them talk about hitchhiking and hostels, and remember my youthful travels in Europe.</p><p>We stopped a couple of times for swimming, but sadly there was floating rubbish on the gorgeous blue water, so I declined. We are so spoilt here! We DID go kayaking, which I'm not sure Chris will ever forgive me for. It WAS lovely though!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiR7qFuoCPGKX8ilCBzAaf74JUW7PuAHLhEg5hJ6Tx07FcjOavWuuKmS2gt-mJOYmZAeGrY6REX5ww5ZSJJALC7SqAiUiPDqexEyBV_fYmAX59eu6C0Fb6opYP98Jv-gYd3IxJLCOnJJCiNK2owfIYmAXcm9wMM9GYy530FeHilbaHeOXwQmUMfT5-hA/s2689/DSC00202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1792" data-original-width="2689" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiR7qFuoCPGKX8ilCBzAaf74JUW7PuAHLhEg5hJ6Tx07FcjOavWuuKmS2gt-mJOYmZAeGrY6REX5ww5ZSJJALC7SqAiUiPDqexEyBV_fYmAX59eu6C0Fb6opYP98Jv-gYd3IxJLCOnJJCiNK2owfIYmAXcm9wMM9GYy530FeHilbaHeOXwQmUMfT5-hA/s320/DSC00202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing village, Cat Ba</td></tr></tbody></table></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUs5zNNVwwIidOYHZuEw361B0S7YGgLCJg1zPjfrh5K4b6ebMueKgTC0uwTwroAeoypUtExh8ObZ-ylEfqXYU3VSkypsdNp2EaMSsDfGobeSrfhtPwcIA8w2p8CXq-9KQq6slEjxthIbMjJnKHytxlKvt9woJXjeQpeCdXKiSV560p7lmo8-254yZ0aQ/s2681/DSC00213.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1787" data-original-width="2681" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUs5zNNVwwIidOYHZuEw361B0S7YGgLCJg1zPjfrh5K4b6ebMueKgTC0uwTwroAeoypUtExh8ObZ-ylEfqXYU3VSkypsdNp2EaMSsDfGobeSrfhtPwcIA8w2p8CXq-9KQq6slEjxthIbMjJnKHytxlKvt9woJXjeQpeCdXKiSV560p7lmo8-254yZ0aQ/s320/DSC00213.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the boat ...</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxVFDQytmCB1fB55Rx7uekeuvaPbIJAEkxcPkubXtT_X8A17iYChhYbit183QmwIxp6ZIRxRT9FDrTTj5OygzQpcJ8lcufQhuPLM3dzYQdOGUEQPWA2of6vMD83NCMliVh4F2KVlrniYfd98QYkCLy_0TOjZdSj8WvYg9PceHQYKXLur_lSBkzXXnZYQ/s2704/DSC00220.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1803" data-original-width="2704" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxVFDQytmCB1fB55Rx7uekeuvaPbIJAEkxcPkubXtT_X8A17iYChhYbit183QmwIxp6ZIRxRT9FDrTTj5OygzQpcJ8lcufQhuPLM3dzYQdOGUEQPWA2of6vMD83NCMliVh4F2KVlrniYfd98QYkCLy_0TOjZdSj8WvYg9PceHQYKXLur_lSBkzXXnZYQ/s320/DSC00220.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely Lan Ha Bay<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p style="text-align: left;">HAIPHONG</p><p style="text-align: left;">Just a short bus/boat/busride away is Haiphong, an industrial sea port at the Red River delta. It has been described as like Hanoi 30 years ago, and it is truly a retro-feeling city of 2 million, full of old French buildings and vibrant N. Vietnamese life. Not a tourist in sight, and almost no English spoken, we finally felt like travellers. Not much to do but walk the streets, eat the food, and marvel at the coffee culture (more cafes per sq km than Surry Hills, I swear!). There's only so much coffee you can drink, and food you can eat, sadly. Refreshingly we were able to shop in 'real' shops, and found some lovely restaurants, one of which even had an English menu (the best tofu ever, and tiny fried fish, with a pungent anchovy sauce). Ate the best noodle soup (banh da cua, seafood with red noodles). Had cocktails at happy hour at our rather flash hotel. It rained, and was cooler, and we wished we could stay longer ...</p></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglyLzKqjzQFHiOGaeTgO_l86MMpvNt8Fd2HCBN95wjr8dbQFNzUy_HjLvp_474Zo7dWsV5scW76g8WE2nvWmxLglRbSlY0AFToOwvDcR6A9xjmBRaW9fkJwNeW_dqbjGfwm03Q69hwllCwcEVE6I6cEcUpwJeZjxCY2vAoBSX6REVCPljDEpihE_4hng/s2652/DSC00436.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1768" data-original-width="2652" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglyLzKqjzQFHiOGaeTgO_l86MMpvNt8Fd2HCBN95wjr8dbQFNzUy_HjLvp_474Zo7dWsV5scW76g8WE2nvWmxLglRbSlY0AFToOwvDcR6A9xjmBRaW9fkJwNeW_dqbjGfwm03Q69hwllCwcEVE6I6cEcUpwJeZjxCY2vAoBSX6REVCPljDEpihE_4hng/s320/DSC00436.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong streetscape</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzeL8nJsdaHZkSSRvYyc86YT8wKR38XF368gbEddlQm-6IEuSIMRNkpLwaKqufM1dC-MQojoQvVuuNOhzSQ-Mbcb9No8K0n4_e-06wVdEBdbJIY3Hw60Ba6mRxKszOqAB7NFDFq1z0DjEpXKSyNWO8jeV57bz2UntXB6RgJwD-VsztadmEHJfWJtQ2Q/s2736/DSC00438.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzeL8nJsdaHZkSSRvYyc86YT8wKR38XF368gbEddlQm-6IEuSIMRNkpLwaKqufM1dC-MQojoQvVuuNOhzSQ-Mbcb9No8K0n4_e-06wVdEBdbJIY3Hw60Ba6mRxKszOqAB7NFDFq1z0DjEpXKSyNWO8jeV57bz2UntXB6RgJwD-VsztadmEHJfWJtQ2Q/s320/DSC00438.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrine on street</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7a20l_JFDgU0Yfk1TnaZqSODrPqADuGo8s3-WRU_HgdJLWg2EIU5cW3TU2E14zF6UhUGOrSTrnAdSgM3zY_EC42wk7dR2-1ZP1z31aVluCjhrBcob6hh37SiYRWsotuMXYtaPr-zbgMuXj6QoA8cZO8MTE8xiASmZ_7y-7DQ-9p8aQb62vFDpOfrBw/s2736/DSC00441.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7a20l_JFDgU0Yfk1TnaZqSODrPqADuGo8s3-WRU_HgdJLWg2EIU5cW3TU2E14zF6UhUGOrSTrnAdSgM3zY_EC42wk7dR2-1ZP1z31aVluCjhrBcob6hh37SiYRWsotuMXYtaPr-zbgMuXj6QoA8cZO8MTE8xiASmZ_7y-7DQ-9p8aQb62vFDpOfrBw/s320/DSC00441.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong street art</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5QFEnwfstfNH2lcXbU-DU-mxjSj7e4-NVzj0HJaETC6M1RWfZopqWtspBjKW9eRv8xw87x-V6-B9I6WBL4xgkF1tbbS1gTlVTj1RTifiakoRhuDrWbd8Bzwl6GxZxjVpODZ1H117nmMQvaObq5QHBuvnL-1hOo3eyPBJwSkJoJ9vQjSsdGiTQnUblIA/s2736/DSC00444.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5QFEnwfstfNH2lcXbU-DU-mxjSj7e4-NVzj0HJaETC6M1RWfZopqWtspBjKW9eRv8xw87x-V6-B9I6WBL4xgkF1tbbS1gTlVTj1RTifiakoRhuDrWbd8Bzwl6GxZxjVpODZ1H117nmMQvaObq5QHBuvnL-1hOo3eyPBJwSkJoJ9vQjSsdGiTQnUblIA/s320/DSC00444.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong street art 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMuA0GVCJG_nmbybzKXFYecgqE5coXJ4pB1LjX17iKMEluccJCFzIPg80MKF_GgnHDpiHAX1n_zhZx99cbUAeTCVNhd1Tlp-y_chPWzD-S9sp3QwklNxCcKo9hkBBG-zhd_JhrEW1oYjzAVfJVHbY2QAcIXNktvGfIkdtH9eytC6QD5jiez0hXIt4sg/s2719/DSC00380.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1812" data-original-width="2719" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMuA0GVCJG_nmbybzKXFYecgqE5coXJ4pB1LjX17iKMEluccJCFzIPg80MKF_GgnHDpiHAX1n_zhZx99cbUAeTCVNhd1Tlp-y_chPWzD-S9sp3QwklNxCcKo9hkBBG-zhd_JhrEW1oYjzAVfJVHbY2QAcIXNktvGfIkdtH9eytC6QD5jiez0hXIt4sg/s320/DSC00380.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong Station</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdpKT8ulLr9P7dvyiGt2-muJ5uuMw5NeT1TVk41paqDpXpxQzep8qaczafJPVpXIax7tu_vMIvjX4rU1omdv4R3lyUxU0jqkq_iyQhfeoKgmwlzerbAiHMojrJT43ipK_S0UQeXNwC2MrR_sxENRJ34HuOWOIlGM1-CWLWfs-vO_T6hiUhjQTIx9eMQ/s2708/DSC00395.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1806" data-original-width="2708" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdpKT8ulLr9P7dvyiGt2-muJ5uuMw5NeT1TVk41paqDpXpxQzep8qaczafJPVpXIax7tu_vMIvjX4rU1omdv4R3lyUxU0jqkq_iyQhfeoKgmwlzerbAiHMojrJT43ipK_S0UQeXNwC2MrR_sxENRJ34HuOWOIlGM1-CWLWfs-vO_T6hiUhjQTIx9eMQ/s320/DSC00395.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our window</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio85Js6QYKE8X0WMTaPDklAJEeQvC3jE17i0gJxJ0n9vL4nvRdhvisNlfuSArCXWa1zwRycd0AHGedzd61l4s2ECGfGziDmq6LNqLAx259Qc7KP1LH0AWTKIyyFn6ygGS2GNRk8qtFve5OuOBk8ufqlnlCgqYvIIMBgmRCYCN2AdTz6Nx6GCLwh0aCDg/s2674/DSC00401.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1783" data-original-width="2674" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio85Js6QYKE8X0WMTaPDklAJEeQvC3jE17i0gJxJ0n9vL4nvRdhvisNlfuSArCXWa1zwRycd0AHGedzd61l4s2ECGfGziDmq6LNqLAx259Qc7KP1LH0AWTKIyyFn6ygGS2GNRk8qtFve5OuOBk8ufqlnlCgqYvIIMBgmRCYCN2AdTz6Nx6GCLwh0aCDg/s320/DSC00401.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cocktail hour at our hotel</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSzC7CMPpjW1rokj9Y4xMqeTMbNLOE96aDIZBBIF3THf692_JFnoYJ05U2OntmMHYKXVb-810fQcEgpG6kcYhGFZs_rVbykLl3lrc6OMiGwKfg9BGqNC1Xo3tjtJOtH3bQIhgrsSZ1qGvDGisav0sEAYl8Fm8symG3zTz8RrV-xgw0Ij-uFhv1e51Sw/s2736/DSC00416.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSzC7CMPpjW1rokj9Y4xMqeTMbNLOE96aDIZBBIF3THf692_JFnoYJ05U2OntmMHYKXVb-810fQcEgpG6kcYhGFZs_rVbykLl3lrc6OMiGwKfg9BGqNC1Xo3tjtJOtH3bQIhgrsSZ1qGvDGisav0sEAYl8Fm8symG3zTz8RrV-xgw0Ij-uFhv1e51Sw/s320/DSC00416.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong market street</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgUnqqipmJsOnkMX56Wkuj94h20I2VJjS-sH-IulaLE0qFQjf8ry5TvETJmyVIe6w5yOhVGYZEmaZGnmxBXffqaXDHP75qcdwk1b4AGAJ7ly9wKWFapcD5NPE_kMIR85eaG3FzFVKCz0Ool6J6Ha_JEsV2ktlP1oZ7817WHvY4e4Akyg783z4D7S8nzw/s2736/DSC00356.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgUnqqipmJsOnkMX56Wkuj94h20I2VJjS-sH-IulaLE0qFQjf8ry5TvETJmyVIe6w5yOhVGYZEmaZGnmxBXffqaXDHP75qcdwk1b4AGAJ7ly9wKWFapcD5NPE_kMIR85eaG3FzFVKCz0Ool6J6Ha_JEsV2ktlP1oZ7817WHvY4e4Akyg783z4D7S8nzw/s320/DSC00356.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong market street 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDsCCEP8IZhhzWoahQ0UX9oW5Se1qKFB1Lr8ajKsF-eL4tT3VN6HBk0ah__G1ypydgItA0bALtc41AFQHmpzw8seEvGvjNDGx97iedwXKy1l6dO5SUbpCNEMD5ansRylZRTFHFTAu-5dRezuXZdcwRKCqWtlxhp00s3b6Gdjux_jiGUaRQWf98tvHig/s2736/DSC00421.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDsCCEP8IZhhzWoahQ0UX9oW5Se1qKFB1Lr8ajKsF-eL4tT3VN6HBk0ah__G1ypydgItA0bALtc41AFQHmpzw8seEvGvjNDGx97iedwXKy1l6dO5SUbpCNEMD5ansRylZRTFHFTAu-5dRezuXZdcwRKCqWtlxhp00s3b6Gdjux_jiGUaRQWf98tvHig/s320/DSC00421.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Pottery' shop</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMuYWiiYNa2VLihBPpAyVSfz9G7sm9kvb9UV3TT1n4dJ1w5_dWb-otYPc4aAC3IgTxjhDzPB5Mes-EebX0mlUClM1P611qF2f2jLDVDWLBujGV_PipPzzDC19S2jh8VvrjC9iMx7dVvosMjqW326xDdQdh_Rp1CCey2zGzOXwGEnTKu0r9Ur7Qa_URQ/s2736/DSC00451.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMuYWiiYNa2VLihBPpAyVSfz9G7sm9kvb9UV3TT1n4dJ1w5_dWb-otYPc4aAC3IgTxjhDzPB5Mes-EebX0mlUClM1P611qF2f2jLDVDWLBujGV_PipPzzDC19S2jh8VvrjC9iMx7dVvosMjqW326xDdQdh_Rp1CCey2zGzOXwGEnTKu0r9Ur7Qa_URQ/s320/DSC00451.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong street bonsai</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63O9WiFsMKtRRNSclzdc3X9I2bT7lxbQIPIbm8RwpmhaK7GFrXCs32Ehqxm3knSjkBJVc2ecPIiwdP8psZm6mUH_c1XEDwNDYeqVXXrBl0X-OEGfW4M5vGXTyoJlMun1uxzYlYKlCvyG1QQMfhtiP4aU9ZbSeirVHEkz3CyCWxib08F1zPDpP0XyYpg/s4032/2023-05-09%2009.41.50.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63O9WiFsMKtRRNSclzdc3X9I2bT7lxbQIPIbm8RwpmhaK7GFrXCs32Ehqxm3knSjkBJVc2ecPIiwdP8psZm6mUH_c1XEDwNDYeqVXXrBl0X-OEGfW4M5vGXTyoJlMun1uxzYlYKlCvyG1QQMfhtiP4aU9ZbSeirVHEkz3CyCWxib08F1zPDpP0XyYpg/s320/2023-05-09%2009.41.50.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haiphong Ca Phe</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDocmG7TTNuqk_IyNQszIvwfg7vOtlXUZX3hBu6z-5Vd01ZO-_GEpjzd8BzQFbk2bcWJPUW9u5lGNtjuKvw0EcNgOfUEhgGQeebG2Kduzq4S1-PEGN2CkV0fasFkyWjnUXgYBFMKC5SK-YaqerIlS7gKb-3HQHHO1eLWMdHYUxjfjAr4K6YRnAmmw4FQ/s4032/2023-05-09%2013.14.32.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDocmG7TTNuqk_IyNQszIvwfg7vOtlXUZX3hBu6z-5Vd01ZO-_GEpjzd8BzQFbk2bcWJPUW9u5lGNtjuKvw0EcNgOfUEhgGQeebG2Kduzq4S1-PEGN2CkV0fasFkyWjnUXgYBFMKC5SK-YaqerIlS7gKb-3HQHHO1eLWMdHYUxjfjAr4K6YRnAmmw4FQ/s320/2023-05-09%2013.14.32.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banh da cua</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Overnight flight home, and day dawned over the dusty interior of our unmistakeable land ...</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx3Fuu7sdxhI8csNBqzYs9rT-ZHeT_J2oumPdak1BiU3TohrSUU_soSLYF9xNJ4JpRfo3lQ8UKS_tJEq5TTLrLUDEOTSzEcXjJCxOba48GJrxYT7XSfPjWhHPjhgUnNO--2nMeV85rEtj-PnHHYG2gyTHDWwjvSW3cZH9Rq-dDepz5YMW1Z9NGQ5sjdg/s2736/DSC00488.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx3Fuu7sdxhI8csNBqzYs9rT-ZHeT_J2oumPdak1BiU3TohrSUU_soSLYF9xNJ4JpRfo3lQ8UKS_tJEq5TTLrLUDEOTSzEcXjJCxOba48GJrxYT7XSfPjWhHPjhgUnNO--2nMeV85rEtj-PnHHYG2gyTHDWwjvSW3cZH9Rq-dDepz5YMW1Z9NGQ5sjdg/s320/DSC00488.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming home ...<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-15677511236229262492023-05-21T18:26:00.002+10:002023-05-21T18:29:38.556+10:00Vietnam - Reunification Day and the Reunification Express<p> DONG HOI</p><p>We took the Reunification Express from Danang to Ninh Binh, with a brief stopover at Dong Hoi. Not really on the international tourist trail, it is a buzzing fishing town and seaside resort popular with local tourists, and as it was 'Reunification Day' long weekend, it was heaving! We visited the slightly chaotic market and ate Banh khiao (shrimp pancake) nearby. Later, grilled prawns and oysters at a very no-frills seafood place by the river. Up early for the 7.15 train to Ninh Binh!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYRSzjnTXODniykKmwdREraU3O7U7advDo121DeEe9nhe5--rdOjcweLktLvTxmfbPsyu6W_GYNZuheyw8RRl_DEscnvfFqYPbt_EMLzsX4R2q9EHgTRgY2-5l-ImsG4WTusj134uE-PkXHk96frcqRfE8sd3RQFdfHFj15aR-e7BoKxM69qg6Vjoag/s2418/onthetrain1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1612" data-original-width="2418" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYRSzjnTXODniykKmwdREraU3O7U7advDo121DeEe9nhe5--rdOjcweLktLvTxmfbPsyu6W_GYNZuheyw8RRl_DEscnvfFqYPbt_EMLzsX4R2q9EHgTRgY2-5l-ImsG4WTusj134uE-PkXHk96frcqRfE8sd3RQFdfHFj15aR-e7BoKxM69qg6Vjoag/s320/onthetrain1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the train ...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhMjPP1Dg5Kn9o1nFfv4HXqD4mwRAXdVOs6Ta3RKopNY3NXsSnEG7N6_L9ncjOLH5mzJ5Iblt_VqRL0K7bySkCr34OkliUnqBgoLB-kmWlIwxNd5Hbdf_n19gOfrgP3_HujnHyoDWebdfkWDKW7TjItg79MWb7hdpTImqKTUIMw0JDkLHTh4vbTCZGxg/s2736/DSC09739.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhMjPP1Dg5Kn9o1nFfv4HXqD4mwRAXdVOs6Ta3RKopNY3NXsSnEG7N6_L9ncjOLH5mzJ5Iblt_VqRL0K7bySkCr34OkliUnqBgoLB-kmWlIwxNd5Hbdf_n19gOfrgP3_HujnHyoDWebdfkWDKW7TjItg79MWb7hdpTImqKTUIMw0JDkLHTh4vbTCZGxg/s320/DSC09739.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dong Hoi boats</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpKtjomdClBxGfezqJqfH329rlNJUqagxsVpzv0940xL0GQBz0F6SYwsMp2eGrtlijHMvkqzu8ehkeuK_WPSWLHMdP5L0HZWzqwl09kjAkgB_ih2YBosNuJeAufGsJ2dGQdQIvxVs0ApAlja_4X_OSQsSrCCPHBPy-e3Y1vL1Ntu5Hd7-rdrBpKU-wg/s2736/DSC09753.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpKtjomdClBxGfezqJqfH329rlNJUqagxsVpzv0940xL0GQBz0F6SYwsMp2eGrtlijHMvkqzu8ehkeuK_WPSWLHMdP5L0HZWzqwl09kjAkgB_ih2YBosNuJeAufGsJ2dGQdQIvxVs0ApAlja_4X_OSQsSrCCPHBPy-e3Y1vL1Ntu5Hd7-rdrBpKU-wg/s320/DSC09753.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dong hoi markets</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8P5WIpL4tGEjC2c17a9eGWRDoqjINYzaEhpBq_S75hUCBNZAUZTGBiB5VoYRd4-Doc_gQZdKTr9EnAtV-646FoTm9SLxmMPbnpjdvT5oOJUWaICokU9_U8ZEeygIx_A09PV7PXz39k_8RBuZgFZipwMActw2tQTasQrLTkMr2RHssRuy0QCD_zOChg/s2736/DSC09766.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8P5WIpL4tGEjC2c17a9eGWRDoqjINYzaEhpBq_S75hUCBNZAUZTGBiB5VoYRd4-Doc_gQZdKTr9EnAtV-646FoTm9SLxmMPbnpjdvT5oOJUWaICokU9_U8ZEeygIx_A09PV7PXz39k_8RBuZgFZipwMActw2tQTasQrLTkMr2RHssRuy0QCD_zOChg/s320/DSC09766.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dong Hoi street</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz0jZ4QV2CKePX7rBp3sXYBzCjUJh2VWAKZj2I_3IiVWJ-qAtZTxdumbjXjS3eIEvE6lm-8sKTerbX0gmJ9Hk_2bVRpA5xkvpBaL7FVUO3FyIbA6dSVUYY7ijhRAKG7RluVerpUjDy-i42poTcbyqbbKJBXdX2a9yZc6c2otE2q0A9l9ZdVsBT9zgcmw/s2736/DSC09779.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1770" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz0jZ4QV2CKePX7rBp3sXYBzCjUJh2VWAKZj2I_3IiVWJ-qAtZTxdumbjXjS3eIEvE6lm-8sKTerbX0gmJ9Hk_2bVRpA5xkvpBaL7FVUO3FyIbA6dSVUYY7ijhRAKG7RluVerpUjDy-i42poTcbyqbbKJBXdX2a9yZc6c2otE2q0A9l9ZdVsBT9zgcmw/s320/DSC09779.jpg" width="207" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reunification day!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGJY7YAI_c3PrkyTqS_PaARyhmoVEef3s8hQ8V-mg6JwZtdIPzZ8uMA5efBkCGUsw_SFI8znhQM0HWK07mZbrDKO_FIZUskrv0ai8N3UQEYCtxUd0te8Zml9v2Gg2JUNx2UawkrDaZLQQdiD-37ji547jCZDf8JoiO6WL4NsiPzX-f7mcrxXycW2BNw/s2736/DSC09797.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGJY7YAI_c3PrkyTqS_PaARyhmoVEef3s8hQ8V-mg6JwZtdIPzZ8uMA5efBkCGUsw_SFI8znhQM0HWK07mZbrDKO_FIZUskrv0ai8N3UQEYCtxUd0te8Zml9v2Gg2JUNx2UawkrDaZLQQdiD-37ji547jCZDf8JoiO6WL4NsiPzX-f7mcrxXycW2BNw/s320/DSC09797.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dong Hoi street 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeLF6fvuRCniB__iBQyirbGsMj8NiNTU2SqrYPIs-0ZX6p7J-kmN38hRYJeLQIBUESuSEWDYeS3ReBbteSH2XbtzYzWBkXzrGXHYPWqkJdztzS7ZDFXn9pl--Y2uIlwaPMifHzlZGCvnnmT6PIbRBPuZXOS4n363HNST9GGnQSXeGF1gokPDGadPj5sA/s2321/DSC09804.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1547" data-original-width="2321" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeLF6fvuRCniB__iBQyirbGsMj8NiNTU2SqrYPIs-0ZX6p7J-kmN38hRYJeLQIBUESuSEWDYeS3ReBbteSH2XbtzYzWBkXzrGXHYPWqkJdztzS7ZDFXn9pl--Y2uIlwaPMifHzlZGCvnnmT6PIbRBPuZXOS4n363HNST9GGnQSXeGF1gokPDGadPj5sA/s320/DSC09804.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dong Hoi street 3</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbe7R-l1y19SFMmic01tktGo-G6zo7oX5aAb_zHqwsHMjynzF99rBRFQL5JIAWSn5dyNgMqfAWrSPMibTHOFy-c7zG2BnUVVbZdNe9UeuUWrzZXVhnJgx2BVvZWVqyeqAXX3ehuaBKeDWDJlxgSOEAiblFsiM6vc7I7g-m-nmcb68hD7SxPuT4sCwzg/s2610/DSC09808.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="2610" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbe7R-l1y19SFMmic01tktGo-G6zo7oX5aAb_zHqwsHMjynzF99rBRFQL5JIAWSn5dyNgMqfAWrSPMibTHOFy-c7zG2BnUVVbZdNe9UeuUWrzZXVhnJgx2BVvZWVqyeqAXX3ehuaBKeDWDJlxgSOEAiblFsiM6vc7I7g-m-nmcb68hD7SxPuT4sCwzg/s320/DSC09808.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dong Hoi street 4</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyUAgkMmHx_r6iRJEoXam88RCZqwst-lzoh-ETv6WdUQhmtNHb83eGoW96DqdY_dW4g7c40fOf2YJohPLFIPasYpQba0yU3BSTTMX1W6G8GTPmFGZ4U4Mo4_RazOLQZGxZm9LfcPg7ZrzFK48V94wOqs8YhKDlqtUzcM1Eq0xMUt3JMty1u4kJf_HFA/s2736/DSC09833.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyUAgkMmHx_r6iRJEoXam88RCZqwst-lzoh-ETv6WdUQhmtNHb83eGoW96DqdY_dW4g7c40fOf2YJohPLFIPasYpQba0yU3BSTTMX1W6G8GTPmFGZ4U4Mo4_RazOLQZGxZm9LfcPg7ZrzFK48V94wOqs8YhKDlqtUzcM1Eq0xMUt3JMty1u4kJf_HFA/s320/DSC09833.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning train ...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>NINH BINH</div><div><br /></div><div>We stayed at Tam Coc by the lake, just out of town, which for some reason I thought would be quiet rural backwater, but it is tourist central, very popular with local tourists and backpackers. The 'homestays' along the lake are nevertheless very pleasant, and it's easy to take a boat trip up the river, or hire a bicycle for the day and explore the extraordinary local landscapes. We found the BEST roast duck restaurant too!</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVelOa4DGVM6loQT5_Pf5unSV_hxZlKxRatBs_Ywxk6SaaHOw3_07JTjgCbQ7NgeUONT82vAMj-fnbEecGvf5-RWv7bFNqEoYzdeeEScY0wEhkv1AYfSlo-SoOl9F6d5kFvD5WOzCvZuFjVSbH0DgMb5SkWpG5gCJfDP4zMcYOW8WA_Ft5JVpGipNkg/s2671/DSC00032.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1781" data-original-width="2671" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVelOa4DGVM6loQT5_Pf5unSV_hxZlKxRatBs_Ywxk6SaaHOw3_07JTjgCbQ7NgeUONT82vAMj-fnbEecGvf5-RWv7bFNqEoYzdeeEScY0wEhkv1AYfSlo-SoOl9F6d5kFvD5WOzCvZuFjVSbH0DgMb5SkWpG5gCJfDP4zMcYOW8WA_Ft5JVpGipNkg/s320/DSC00032.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple ceremony</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuwGqWx3AsaUfkmN3OpovhFvnQcG3md9kv0VgfYYZmB7-ulNoaonwkWfd0y5Mv0ZnglD0fLwLwINbzzaAuCRkhcLHizUdzRuSLK0tclBhkcNEKtd_r1at9jMQCTcVqgVKrO5AJwvbX-zRKRrhlV6V0ESsEZCDPVtllr8ASKhqJkjH-p0YFzEtS9f_Iaw/s2736/DSC00048.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuwGqWx3AsaUfkmN3OpovhFvnQcG3md9kv0VgfYYZmB7-ulNoaonwkWfd0y5Mv0ZnglD0fLwLwINbzzaAuCRkhcLHizUdzRuSLK0tclBhkcNEKtd_r1at9jMQCTcVqgVKrO5AJwvbX-zRKRrhlV6V0ESsEZCDPVtllr8ASKhqJkjH-p0YFzEtS9f_Iaw/s320/DSC00048.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bicycle ride 1</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYVXLuGhjBy6h-9zgHB7nBPIpvfI8R1IKqmxhevfrJdGkfJi1ogAdzIdAWQhagjcTj2w1tbANc_ApNX-JWL0Jb8tdni8EZi8bHruhUJTFCdzGWh8l6nS6PvSY747EVTHDjt9IdpAvyTAjrDl0ZXgXlca4LbqoIxjXynPp6IqsJs5j5XBdwH3rVjaSKw/s2736/DSC00064.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYVXLuGhjBy6h-9zgHB7nBPIpvfI8R1IKqmxhevfrJdGkfJi1ogAdzIdAWQhagjcTj2w1tbANc_ApNX-JWL0Jb8tdni8EZi8bHruhUJTFCdzGWh8l6nS6PvSY747EVTHDjt9IdpAvyTAjrDl0ZXgXlca4LbqoIxjXynPp6IqsJs5j5XBdwH3rVjaSKw/s320/DSC00064.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bicycle ride 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikJR_Du-NBMCkeaxUjwgKpMfrzoeVj1Ajbd3cioW0UMTRVmmaz9kWBk_wcckqCTmPNMP8Lp5R-g-OGKpzSDmlsMYNVIj3IQT-VvYunql_iw-4ucPyN8aKOq9kYunc38iUZn11rC6UcKNJ_4Dn97jg5vaYHo7kOBF2J4v1t8hfj6cxuzvqZ7qp6GvcDQ/s2736/DSC00101.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikJR_Du-NBMCkeaxUjwgKpMfrzoeVj1Ajbd3cioW0UMTRVmmaz9kWBk_wcckqCTmPNMP8Lp5R-g-OGKpzSDmlsMYNVIj3IQT-VvYunql_iw-4ucPyN8aKOq9kYunc38iUZn11rC6UcKNJ_4Dn97jg5vaYHo7kOBF2J4v1t8hfj6cxuzvqZ7qp6GvcDQ/s320/DSC00101.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the river</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjs9Uw3mvB29UhHUxIWw7eqNcBAPeH9PPPQD7ow6SgPHP4BpSKis91m0YCOmp63axqH38E7VChqXlY0er0vvbcnNxltWMPlOzxluQOsnl4lr0Ee059vXpJgY4bFsrCCoC5o999eb9vroiUHCya1FE626FNqX0x98KCf7YGTrH1RzdkeV4kGyYThfwGA/s2736/DSC00140.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjs9Uw3mvB29UhHUxIWw7eqNcBAPeH9PPPQD7ow6SgPHP4BpSKis91m0YCOmp63axqH38E7VChqXlY0er0vvbcnNxltWMPlOzxluQOsnl4lr0Ee059vXpJgY4bFsrCCoC5o999eb9vroiUHCya1FE626FNqX0x98KCf7YGTrH1RzdkeV4kGyYThfwGA/s320/DSC00140.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the pagoda</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3iionF4bT4yk-WE5YWYz4l_dlH4iCT2meLr9g28lQzXivYUZagSr_E0opR1EHP6cLGPNoBKHdKw9s_Ak_T2w1IEzM9UyQi7ipo0wGuSdoVshT2AdicOSEXWWxcbsUA6OUNXzWcaAKg1M7ZazFBOYzRtJgPm4q9XUH7IeTr62GrgJCUSQt66bCoFBF6w/s2736/DSC00142.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3iionF4bT4yk-WE5YWYz4l_dlH4iCT2meLr9g28lQzXivYUZagSr_E0opR1EHP6cLGPNoBKHdKw9s_Ak_T2w1IEzM9UyQi7ipo0wGuSdoVshT2AdicOSEXWWxcbsUA6OUNXzWcaAKg1M7ZazFBOYzRtJgPm4q9XUH7IeTr62GrgJCUSQt66bCoFBF6w/s320/DSC00142.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the pagoda 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikKt79RRc-mZRITRBxSF2XA2fdIOHz3kNP-z5jwy2w5ZsU08aSmSt-Mdq9iqZb-cYZd62AuXVo8Hoq7Ruu0QAMSVKmNXxEWC6iD0uOPJ2srDwEAatLctI_Dg_cIbm3qJcUBk2qWxTOLBeQS41Yd3zmXfFK_jThW-6b6Z0giuzjTxqpfxPn--NK7EKloA/s2656/DSC00151.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1771" data-original-width="2656" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikKt79RRc-mZRITRBxSF2XA2fdIOHz3kNP-z5jwy2w5ZsU08aSmSt-Mdq9iqZb-cYZd62AuXVo8Hoq7Ruu0QAMSVKmNXxEWC6iD0uOPJ2srDwEAatLctI_Dg_cIbm3qJcUBk2qWxTOLBeQS41Yd3zmXfFK_jThW-6b6Z0giuzjTxqpfxPn--NK7EKloA/s320/DSC00151.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Tourist advice</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXmJM4gS-Z4wCOHvR21Zloirg2TRlVqPdAaQAb-ylk8dDlJuGV1MlISVh1B6zjklLCCR6u31Qzjgs9GotFTrhNb9v6NJG_k3K7YcFr8nRaH_DMunJ9HXZcQd8vPsdLrVycfnBr6p9FCqPabmXXMJJ9ayilpXvfhTb7tRtHdaGwPGFC2lnWqWOabT_HA/s2736/DSC00159.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXmJM4gS-Z4wCOHvR21Zloirg2TRlVqPdAaQAb-ylk8dDlJuGV1MlISVh1B6zjklLCCR6u31Qzjgs9GotFTrhNb9v6NJG_k3K7YcFr8nRaH_DMunJ9HXZcQd8vPsdLrVycfnBr6p9FCqPabmXXMJJ9ayilpXvfhTb7tRtHdaGwPGFC2lnWqWOabT_HA/s320/DSC00159.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the pagoda 3</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiYK7ddZ0EVSl-6kzOx8IGeLsry2pBMVKAlX3pMnNkcCMH-MO6-NvD5ohpXmCRPYnD6pVY3tGXsRBp67D7FG-xlPDaGMimuJo0UNQjPccI8IjpkZacB5CbY3uUmPIGRv22wBVuLkhxk0e1v267_4lnKcN-GVECGUvOJpxanKdd4i7iG9_cwkUVB0Hc_A/s2736/DSC09838.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiYK7ddZ0EVSl-6kzOx8IGeLsry2pBMVKAlX3pMnNkcCMH-MO6-NvD5ohpXmCRPYnD6pVY3tGXsRBp67D7FG-xlPDaGMimuJo0UNQjPccI8IjpkZacB5CbY3uUmPIGRv22wBVuLkhxk0e1v267_4lnKcN-GVECGUvOJpxanKdd4i7iG9_cwkUVB0Hc_A/s320/DSC09838.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourist boats, Tam Coc lake</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIT6KHsFyxka5wC10yJD9ugGyRKrPTq4fP1kW6eqPlTkE2n-ST_qhz6OQP4wyVwkat3pMKRgXH316ib09nNrZF0AZ_p6xkRqKZ5N0nzvCW83Xlh7anFGHj2SIvpEdCjZ7f1gz2npQVhnAFFKE13lpFln4PMJrqwqJeeV40HuXOsvGEqXJNTd5VDH4dQA/s2627/DSC09844.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1751" data-original-width="2627" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIT6KHsFyxka5wC10yJD9ugGyRKrPTq4fP1kW6eqPlTkE2n-ST_qhz6OQP4wyVwkat3pMKRgXH316ib09nNrZF0AZ_p6xkRqKZ5N0nzvCW83Xlh7anFGHj2SIvpEdCjZ7f1gz2npQVhnAFFKE13lpFln4PMJrqwqJeeV40HuXOsvGEqXJNTd5VDH4dQA/s320/DSC09844.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the lake ...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6m1rLx_AVKRByu3-W9iKS2hb8D_Hyxap8dDrFVdRDZqPcBBioNOBeIN7sD3vy8vMhNrq4d_JF67AJeSgvJEr-tAoByFQWO5nRuLy3YNR9tfS6ih5-0VzPQYtacVC8DPUnzLd5nx5KlHXPirK9WDubE372-URMpYoIWu0SIsOan6Fxmzh2zsv8WodbA/s2736/DSC09851.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6m1rLx_AVKRByu3-W9iKS2hb8D_Hyxap8dDrFVdRDZqPcBBioNOBeIN7sD3vy8vMhNrq4d_JF67AJeSgvJEr-tAoByFQWO5nRuLy3YNR9tfS6ih5-0VzPQYtacVC8DPUnzLd5nx5KlHXPirK9WDubE372-URMpYoIWu0SIsOan6Fxmzh2zsv8WodbA/s320/DSC09851.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best roast duck!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX41YHW7GLn1C2lLV4BHyPeLJcJ0B_N9-z18tf1pfQLz-c810JlxjqFnwvaraLcryoxZzpovEYK5wWKsl3E0WOKUNyC_JECoM-V3CFJl8yxIPQWCRZ0fghD-3eyUVnvjbPxB1GTmoOF9hg1vvykU1YIgNR43Mjm5gaI_JWftXDhLuKjR2ZejnRzr13aQ/s2736/DSC09864.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX41YHW7GLn1C2lLV4BHyPeLJcJ0B_N9-z18tf1pfQLz-c810JlxjqFnwvaraLcryoxZzpovEYK5wWKsl3E0WOKUNyC_JECoM-V3CFJl8yxIPQWCRZ0fghD-3eyUVnvjbPxB1GTmoOF9hg1vvykU1YIgNR43Mjm5gaI_JWftXDhLuKjR2ZejnRzr13aQ/s320/DSC09864.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the lake 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiii1MjNdrhzh8VWvMYCgc7_VytuDqMqZJBT7OC3ukRaq_TEKPWIoiskowI2OsI2OxobDJhXCWz8QvNByXinQztoGhB437dN_EAPYOG9AuiZqvF1lTQQEqXucIbHxQyS1gvmEEPFMVgSE5S3U4rxsi8GbE8GgiKxcD3NCSY89aPpXoIBEwEYS1Upv-7FQ/s2736/DSC09923.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiii1MjNdrhzh8VWvMYCgc7_VytuDqMqZJBT7OC3ukRaq_TEKPWIoiskowI2OsI2OxobDJhXCWz8QvNByXinQztoGhB437dN_EAPYOG9AuiZqvF1lTQQEqXucIbHxQyS1gvmEEPFMVgSE5S3U4rxsi8GbE8GgiKxcD3NCSY89aPpXoIBEwEYS1Upv-7FQ/s320/DSC09923.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boating along the river</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNmdnpXYHstCI2aGkdIDZm8nxlu6ggm2e2mswXcgvX-OWCENgbRlXCSTvyGQZyh_wT7DjlHiCN3U0E3m8KQWnaBjQHEsVZsDp7RI4utlUTUzmg4I-kH3CbdRJEs06nX-voWwM7xQczvhLPyVvwJH40dBMHfq3RnES4WOddxCgpLZk5v9bDjZ0mO2H7Hw/s2736/DSC09977.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNmdnpXYHstCI2aGkdIDZm8nxlu6ggm2e2mswXcgvX-OWCENgbRlXCSTvyGQZyh_wT7DjlHiCN3U0E3m8KQWnaBjQHEsVZsDp7RI4utlUTUzmg4I-kH3CbdRJEs06nX-voWwM7xQczvhLPyVvwJH40dBMHfq3RnES4WOddxCgpLZk5v9bDjZ0mO2H7Hw/s320/DSC09977.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the lake 3</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWluBk-G0RcE16i9lAPLSU8AKMFlFzStbsPns-yPs_uDI1gHa__lP3CvkMaA7h2vx2pMZJPC35kitbw0jZtKTr7aIAJ8_6nnsmjoubuLfLSvFMUWERDTvMuktbGNH08ecXB9nuHA522Gch2VCScXABUSCIL6CGAHLuxZYpnBtcXpeNOYqSUIWmb2R_A/s2681/DSC09979.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1787" data-original-width="2681" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWluBk-G0RcE16i9lAPLSU8AKMFlFzStbsPns-yPs_uDI1gHa__lP3CvkMaA7h2vx2pMZJPC35kitbw0jZtKTr7aIAJ8_6nnsmjoubuLfLSvFMUWERDTvMuktbGNH08ecXB9nuHA522Gch2VCScXABUSCIL6CGAHLuxZYpnBtcXpeNOYqSUIWmb2R_A/s320/DSC09979.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the lake 4</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div>belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-26504193123595475442023-05-21T18:17:00.003+10:002023-05-21T18:17:40.733+10:00Vietnam - we flew down to Hue ...<p> HUE</p><p>The old capital is a very lovely town on the banks of the Perfume River, with notable cultural relics that are gradually being restored, and are humming with Vietnamese visitors. The local food is big on yummy chewy dumplings and rolls and dipping sauces, and of course the famous Bun Bo Hue (beef soup) of which sadly we did not find a good example! Our riverfront guesthouse was in the heart of backpacker-land, but a short walk across the bridge was another world, a quiet local village. The river is lined by parkland, but on a sunset walk back from the Citadel it was strangely difficult to find a riverfront beer ... finally did though!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQkzr9zrj9FIvksl8MBBgMH-SwntbFLyQyW2Ip_dPK7jOLffvPGJP7IktRVbuyQ9ZyUMIjLBzqcv53zO6FhqzBbLygggQ6NGj-HRQiRVVaWG7RdyKPVFM5afr_IlOfuAUlpY7WV5Sidz-ZEHo3Yi8y3IoeiQMbM3YLALpe9djqVglkWkllfGqH4uMdA/s2736/DSC09300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQkzr9zrj9FIvksl8MBBgMH-SwntbFLyQyW2Ip_dPK7jOLffvPGJP7IktRVbuyQ9ZyUMIjLBzqcv53zO6FhqzBbLygggQ6NGj-HRQiRVVaWG7RdyKPVFM5afr_IlOfuAUlpY7WV5Sidz-ZEHo3Yi8y3IoeiQMbM3YLALpe9djqVglkWkllfGqH4uMdA/s320/DSC09300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quiet village over the bridge ...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpDA00H-ExOwqISxrV1Ojcf9MboDTeBMxClBZJQhLRzhJ59blDtP_UwupneAEu62H3IM9n9fpOE4-o-NqlRXi1NDmw2_DgpEBD-cibfuGF2CXtFOPxS9yf8y0tIneTr8bZxNNrW54j6P6to94dq8anTf5apj31bo_zzsDr77KhLwP99xBBGQv4T97hQ/s2736/DSC09308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpDA00H-ExOwqISxrV1Ojcf9MboDTeBMxClBZJQhLRzhJ59blDtP_UwupneAEu62H3IM9n9fpOE4-o-NqlRXi1NDmw2_DgpEBD-cibfuGF2CXtFOPxS9yf8y0tIneTr8bZxNNrW54j6P6to94dq8anTf5apj31bo_zzsDr77KhLwP99xBBGQv4T97hQ/s320/DSC09308.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quiet village 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlCcZT6cfy-clRa49qqoIGF5BnJbjhVUC49ETSehoDskj0GqZNTCryQWSs_VP7FI8Ae7an3VIGVcaemDYbb6YSLUpk7KoFX3oOVl0B_eDd8nPR8mX16bsNFNys7zAzH1FhtN_hnWMD_zn4IIB-y7KFsrWSXgZ-oAc92sIzetSA9_r0SgzfDae_oeJqw/s2736/DSC09368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlCcZT6cfy-clRa49qqoIGF5BnJbjhVUC49ETSehoDskj0GqZNTCryQWSs_VP7FI8Ae7an3VIGVcaemDYbb6YSLUpk7KoFX3oOVl0B_eDd8nPR8mX16bsNFNys7zAzH1FhtN_hnWMD_zn4IIB-y7KFsrWSXgZ-oAc92sIzetSA9_r0SgzfDae_oeJqw/s320/DSC09368.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Citadel</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9VeAAz7IKmVwRLDzRxH2RWV3K-a9ojWDyptMZ7vC_v5nt_l5gHxdsB8SHtLl_gZIi7UnLYN8TkxMABJgPbloQfWiUhbpA5TsM7YgUm_cFvhQZZK4BG4aiOwvjvtpXM1byCGbuUPeJZfBBOuGbcXoo7vBv_8MXNgCpQpwmR5vh4iWJDdnD2LbhaOmeWA/s2716/DSC09373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1811" data-original-width="2716" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9VeAAz7IKmVwRLDzRxH2RWV3K-a9ojWDyptMZ7vC_v5nt_l5gHxdsB8SHtLl_gZIi7UnLYN8TkxMABJgPbloQfWiUhbpA5TsM7YgUm_cFvhQZZK4BG4aiOwvjvtpXM1byCGbuUPeJZfBBOuGbcXoo7vBv_8MXNgCpQpwmR5vh4iWJDdnD2LbhaOmeWA/s320/DSC09373.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Citadel 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhbtMDgOyb7TL-IRF1Bo41e9Plw_hh3Zyj31q7VQJ6JIKz-6kzYpcRllthue0Bhu9u5wHVh3JeFRoBVWZo2lQFwZ4gYOdQgp01TdVql1qyIZZwpk1pXl2RxIcXW7nRpedyANFg2dIlz_trWiNH9px4fFjDcLM2OpRkr7mKZlDsXx4IVstOiTPnTrPtA/s2736/DSC09390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhbtMDgOyb7TL-IRF1Bo41e9Plw_hh3Zyj31q7VQJ6JIKz-6kzYpcRllthue0Bhu9u5wHVh3JeFRoBVWZo2lQFwZ4gYOdQgp01TdVql1qyIZZwpk1pXl2RxIcXW7nRpedyANFg2dIlz_trWiNH9px4fFjDcLM2OpRkr7mKZlDsXx4IVstOiTPnTrPtA/s320/DSC09390.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Citadel 3</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYioLb2z5gqEYfRxCRRmMhrs6AM8l7SNiKBSw_9XEWreZe_bPlEKzcce7GwynJG18iCS6w67zSDz9KBVXr3HQFwCUFB54aP-UF6uwIFIOyhVPkBSaqr-Sy62aHBk79LY7z_etHTtJ_NgmbbStD24smF5Oae_nWum-2p2Xr2NzRF0LqGgxetLUuOFa2gg/s2736/DSC09392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYioLb2z5gqEYfRxCRRmMhrs6AM8l7SNiKBSw_9XEWreZe_bPlEKzcce7GwynJG18iCS6w67zSDz9KBVXr3HQFwCUFB54aP-UF6uwIFIOyhVPkBSaqr-Sy62aHBk79LY7z_etHTtJ_NgmbbStD24smF5Oae_nWum-2p2Xr2NzRF0LqGgxetLUuOFa2gg/s320/DSC09392.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfume River sunset</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQdHhF7CiL6TqoviX6KYb6YShf6-aR2Em1QMl00jdU5VCLBfsGsuJpIMtk8jOnGmOAeDk8nj_j3UMiqETPnWn4B-aBCMBhUdU1EHI51LXRniTAmgBcmp_ir4fyf0LHNIEPWcG-GdQf_v-_xP5u7cIF86HnPD1pqU0OLO140kDJgAn8_U8etKsZQICoA/s4032/2023-04-25%2018.07.52-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2814" data-original-width="4032" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQdHhF7CiL6TqoviX6KYb6YShf6-aR2Em1QMl00jdU5VCLBfsGsuJpIMtk8jOnGmOAeDk8nj_j3UMiqETPnWn4B-aBCMBhUdU1EHI51LXRniTAmgBcmp_ir4fyf0LHNIEPWcG-GdQf_v-_xP5u7cIF86HnPD1pqU0OLO140kDJgAn8_U8etKsZQICoA/s320/2023-04-25%2018.07.52-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beer with sunset view</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VecDSY_auoHdita0B1Q_aLmFX-Nq3_yPus_CPIa7-9VpUXlNFhafrI43qsyZq16AIFa15K-8ha1xgZkLRfV6eTQwr3oNJfgQblCBDHWWoS37gFwbSIb_6nZLollwR6_uGVPH0tTzXOaqySV56VG6t6ed2NQCZiRJO7QAnmJhc4dZcGwWHXihxpvITA/s2736/DSC09402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VecDSY_auoHdita0B1Q_aLmFX-Nq3_yPus_CPIa7-9VpUXlNFhafrI43qsyZq16AIFa15K-8ha1xgZkLRfV6eTQwr3oNJfgQblCBDHWWoS37gFwbSIb_6nZLollwR6_uGVPH0tTzXOaqySV56VG6t6ed2NQCZiRJO7QAnmJhc4dZcGwWHXihxpvITA/s320/DSC09402.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast with a view</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLSO4qN9NZ479OkyUC0Hd2UFP0bS2lZ2BVmKCqxBOI8D1pB5Fi2H7YW4HuBNH25a5PDHiqQojEWf8vGFVCrjTxpwUOrXNfZaWKpa8OqD8Mpkf50ua2ma7P1uGwSHsZ6m6m3h42UKogGbZ1HtuYj1Ua6l2oY1PrJhWZNWshvzue4wL4lpCGtstW7z--tw/s2736/DSC09415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLSO4qN9NZ479OkyUC0Hd2UFP0bS2lZ2BVmKCqxBOI8D1pB5Fi2H7YW4HuBNH25a5PDHiqQojEWf8vGFVCrjTxpwUOrXNfZaWKpa8OqD8Mpkf50ua2ma7P1uGwSHsZ6m6m3h42UKogGbZ1HtuYj1Ua6l2oY1PrJhWZNWshvzue4wL4lpCGtstW7z--tw/s320/DSC09415.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pagoda at Hue</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu8VzNdYum0OJylXs3njk3h1U-nPcawRZ3qHIydwJ7ZuFDDW95zS88CHWqnriHt8VQyRkl5uMZ6g4FiS1UmYcrHVIlQXGzgeYQppq1C66Ym9obZnl7Wyo8r79deF18636rigK5IoLeSQ97h6-xMcc54NhGGp_n73--JVTxY9--j7tjvZ8NkrcqqMLosQ/s2736/DSC09428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu8VzNdYum0OJylXs3njk3h1U-nPcawRZ3qHIydwJ7ZuFDDW95zS88CHWqnriHt8VQyRkl5uMZ6g4FiS1UmYcrHVIlQXGzgeYQppq1C66Ym9obZnl7Wyo8r79deF18636rigK5IoLeSQ97h6-xMcc54NhGGp_n73--JVTxY9--j7tjvZ8NkrcqqMLosQ/s320/DSC09428.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pagoda at Hue 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjen9wMfdynTqtIlNFe7XU4GAs2VbmxV5ttc63CZ3HwdnyhlikMqXN-0lhkPjLmD3RL1A8IZEa7E-mSPv9zGrQW5izCp2I3ZLGbs2j6Kb8TMRVhdP3REW6UYU76fNpncO1o-IJPMLjpYQk5MtTJpss4KyCTFm44dgreaSwQpsX4QnbY1bn4XwtrHAivWA/s2692/DSC09485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1795" data-original-width="2692" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjen9wMfdynTqtIlNFe7XU4GAs2VbmxV5ttc63CZ3HwdnyhlikMqXN-0lhkPjLmD3RL1A8IZEa7E-mSPv9zGrQW5izCp2I3ZLGbs2j6Kb8TMRVhdP3REW6UYU76fNpncO1o-IJPMLjpYQk5MtTJpss4KyCTFm44dgreaSwQpsX4QnbY1bn4XwtrHAivWA/s320/DSC09485.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local tourists</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4B0H4mwSqLF3j6mU2T5KWefyhVkE8QjN6SeoNB-3eiPdF_L54IViLkaaPNOaNui60U7sm5cH8i5B3hNveZlIR1NksZnLyKZd-I75_QN15vnpEp_KdIrWL7cIh6LwpYfTJSoJT4AihoHi4Ar8Dn1B0vziIhlz2oVjIoqqj3R838CdudTFJ6ITeFO_kvw/s2736/DSC09494.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4B0H4mwSqLF3j6mU2T5KWefyhVkE8QjN6SeoNB-3eiPdF_L54IViLkaaPNOaNui60U7sm5cH8i5B3hNveZlIR1NksZnLyKZd-I75_QN15vnpEp_KdIrWL7cIh6LwpYfTJSoJT4AihoHi4Ar8Dn1B0vziIhlz2oVjIoqqj3R838CdudTFJ6ITeFO_kvw/s320/DSC09494.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hue street</td></tr></tbody></table><p>HOI AN</p><p>We took a bus to Hoi An, a few hours south of Hue, another revisit from 13 years ago. We were shocked by the increase in numbers of tourists, international and local - the Old Town and riverside are like a neon-lit Disneyland! But still a very beautiful small town if you avoid those parts, and wander the laneways.</p><p>It was too hot and humid to do much walking and exploring, so we signed up for both a Street Food tour and a Cooking class (to Chris's horror!). It was impossible to eat everything from 15 very various street food stops and we had to bring some home for breakfast! For cooking the next day, we visited the amazing local market, then cycled out of town to a neighbouring village, surrounded by market gardens, and cooked stuffed pancakes and spring rolls, and various banana leaf-wrapped delicacies, all of which we ate by the river. So good!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPKnJtLXOeE8HxutI2FEl5NuUyIsFrvd0lWpWdnjmkVN262WdvDrXMeKPBafv7jy9IMatBthQMW4PuuzzzxAxGf4oK1zppncSq1Z445qv9F8gH5Tv3fwbVY8-EKNz2BNGKJRvq4xNuz-0lhqnC4s2BZvtOi-duKgVVxFaqYyEuse2c-Y2Ac6BxP70w9A/s4032/2023-04-28%2012.27.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPKnJtLXOeE8HxutI2FEl5NuUyIsFrvd0lWpWdnjmkVN262WdvDrXMeKPBafv7jy9IMatBthQMW4PuuzzzxAxGf4oK1zppncSq1Z445qv9F8gH5Tv3fwbVY8-EKNz2BNGKJRvq4xNuz-0lhqnC4s2BZvtOi-duKgVVxFaqYyEuse2c-Y2Ac6BxP70w9A/s320/2023-04-28%2012.27.26.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooking class!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgvp7coMv5WI_RVAIWZd2TbG16uqILXRXp00rW2xPWlGiA1AJP1tbkDmloEqyBW226E5GNN_8pGpMd80GbmiSOO1wh8hJfY0zNtA_koNhH5zt2M2WpLlFfWAgifn-8dHOEi2xEP9WhGEcoC40q921rYDYuqu_xAPPh7iNP7DEA1ZNd46nywu5rjzAPA/s2736/DSC09543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgvp7coMv5WI_RVAIWZd2TbG16uqILXRXp00rW2xPWlGiA1AJP1tbkDmloEqyBW226E5GNN_8pGpMd80GbmiSOO1wh8hJfY0zNtA_koNhH5zt2M2WpLlFfWAgifn-8dHOEi2xEP9WhGEcoC40q921rYDYuqu_xAPPh7iNP7DEA1ZNd46nywu5rjzAPA/s320/DSC09543.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoi An workers</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2nhOWbXZ5R5MmBVPAB1xbCndrLZjuzXJN3ft00cc9MdxM1Ou33ym2pAi6D6MtMeyqcys8zyVqyNrno5olych_OUPraOjhMEloR3AXnlUiWifjybIRvJFFG2JAhT4TzyL5jKmUwNKZHoKlvGgXuFNcbQy02I8dOiZT4ZBhxActSZV9Foe4NIm9w5OcVg/s2736/DSC09547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2nhOWbXZ5R5MmBVPAB1xbCndrLZjuzXJN3ft00cc9MdxM1Ou33ym2pAi6D6MtMeyqcys8zyVqyNrno5olych_OUPraOjhMEloR3AXnlUiWifjybIRvJFFG2JAhT4TzyL5jKmUwNKZHoKlvGgXuFNcbQy02I8dOiZT4ZBhxActSZV9Foe4NIm9w5OcVg/s320/DSC09547.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoi An market</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDbQN637LeQZtelg_Xj68_ts-1vQnwCvqA5fqb8EqpHdiwfKq0whF2F13-rrcSEUcy_mYTHQuz2fj4nZtEJJV_kC94oHsOPuhE-OE1xG1DQim94dKLcf6uTchvYW91cktxvALzlmf5Bj41hSgczQtlTP1lcC01lw6HeCcRCXfPnXcmciLoVUJLWj_lA/s2703/DSC09559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1802" data-original-width="2703" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDbQN637LeQZtelg_Xj68_ts-1vQnwCvqA5fqb8EqpHdiwfKq0whF2F13-rrcSEUcy_mYTHQuz2fj4nZtEJJV_kC94oHsOPuhE-OE1xG1DQim94dKLcf6uTchvYW91cktxvALzlmf5Bj41hSgczQtlTP1lcC01lw6HeCcRCXfPnXcmciLoVUJLWj_lA/s320/DSC09559.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the river ...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPkqGz11b8cML7M3bY0JBo95MZf6HnFGh5Iu958KMGc9v2Ei6O7rviLEbEViXy26xqW6TJnJ495Ui-oGgdDGd0sxtlRk3uu3iCxIRtGHxvkvoXzvo_n3bhncyQWb4KNE6HX4tp9DcHgZknHrvmb-RzODsM6N6-tAIKCNfzo3gFeyUODFM3EKwEdoq5Q/s2736/DSC09575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPkqGz11b8cML7M3bY0JBo95MZf6HnFGh5Iu958KMGc9v2Ei6O7rviLEbEViXy26xqW6TJnJ495Ui-oGgdDGd0sxtlRk3uu3iCxIRtGHxvkvoXzvo_n3bhncyQWb4KNE6HX4tp9DcHgZknHrvmb-RzODsM6N6-tAIKCNfzo3gFeyUODFM3EKwEdoq5Q/s320/DSC09575.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoi An laneway</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTGwEDa6HE8goAEqyuRJtG9wo5YypBdaO4p6P-HFXlCrr76LHZm0Ck2sdtfbwyqiOH8CHnlwdBvzpQDxFQ9iDrNzOqsg51IqbqDVbFcp643au5p2qteryib0WQOVbM-Ns83zhvaeEMKPm7RYnyJz7_VOrpzuEU5pgot3WkUyWwd_4c_5ED35l28fbEA/s2736/DSC09616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTGwEDa6HE8goAEqyuRJtG9wo5YypBdaO4p6P-HFXlCrr76LHZm0Ck2sdtfbwyqiOH8CHnlwdBvzpQDxFQ9iDrNzOqsg51IqbqDVbFcp643au5p2qteryib0WQOVbM-Ns83zhvaeEMKPm7RYnyJz7_VOrpzuEU5pgot3WkUyWwd_4c_5ED35l28fbEA/s320/DSC09616.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoi An market 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzyp7SaifhFfucctMMpO7o0khanORGXpmXBqfFpyla6FzWyT-0FeSgjU_xIUYSe59X3peTB1BdMTVlWLt7CCOSzIyA_f-EA9Pngl50auHHZAXlLKIJT_gcy3inYk987FdghOz3ZEW1mSVty8R5TqLE65GEE1iA51G9dv9m3NbokdCLrcXuxl6kodGMQ/s2736/DSC09649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzyp7SaifhFfucctMMpO7o0khanORGXpmXBqfFpyla6FzWyT-0FeSgjU_xIUYSe59X3peTB1BdMTVlWLt7CCOSzIyA_f-EA9Pngl50auHHZAXlLKIJT_gcy3inYk987FdghOz3ZEW1mSVty8R5TqLE65GEE1iA51G9dv9m3NbokdCLrcXuxl6kodGMQ/s320/DSC09649.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourist boats on the river</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Xl5Pgg05dQ3Pqm0rXc5CmxkC0rvu6bZrG1EMc_xyjPV3o9m92nWxr1ekYpG1eJzfhn_pzPwDuPcdF-Lu_dQ6FMCCqTSaRsBn2QPZIOTGjosKcXaj_vNJbmNXN1SvrdwmGlmSV6TFIxa8aHRGnMQk0ThPk1cJ6CXaOSjygnW2QqWFQheobWhiflzNdw/s2736/DSC09665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Xl5Pgg05dQ3Pqm0rXc5CmxkC0rvu6bZrG1EMc_xyjPV3o9m92nWxr1ekYpG1eJzfhn_pzPwDuPcdF-Lu_dQ6FMCCqTSaRsBn2QPZIOTGjosKcXaj_vNJbmNXN1SvrdwmGlmSV6TFIxa8aHRGnMQk0ThPk1cJ6CXaOSjygnW2QqWFQheobWhiflzNdw/s320/DSC09665.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grilled seafood at the market!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozv4FchFYF2Pt2h_vl7aBOOoA3f8XT_kpKUiyTGwSWUFAfg6CfD5w6_bnZ5FIpYbHrtPhUIncfwETS5CCRO9PgiBXJpnum5MtqX4zJVMOlOjtKR-OzmyBxBuz-AjwbPXk5qH5i_R6ef6xfkGkeAVjIzQUVh1mGLR-WcjnquGOgIn0Atvobyr6gAOiOA/s2736/DSC09670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozv4FchFYF2Pt2h_vl7aBOOoA3f8XT_kpKUiyTGwSWUFAfg6CfD5w6_bnZ5FIpYbHrtPhUIncfwETS5CCRO9PgiBXJpnum5MtqX4zJVMOlOjtKR-OzmyBxBuz-AjwbPXk5qH5i_R6ef6xfkGkeAVjIzQUVh1mGLR-WcjnquGOgIn0Atvobyr6gAOiOA/s320/DSC09670.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guardian at the Japanese bridge</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFAGS_cWHzT3MNHm19VBSyfS7nOOyR7jDunKE2hQK5K7N4TnIVVyWtMUMC3ZcXerI2qPPEpvb27jk2B9aMZXFVG1RYDpa0W5axiHpnLQnmV5vVr7t_YkU1Ps9HlyaI0KTREL7dHqXLM2xyqtDmEjdIIMAlZmII_D9Ba7xTYHQy4xT4cQEliWmTJxHwpA/s2736/DSC09678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFAGS_cWHzT3MNHm19VBSyfS7nOOyR7jDunKE2hQK5K7N4TnIVVyWtMUMC3ZcXerI2qPPEpvb27jk2B9aMZXFVG1RYDpa0W5axiHpnLQnmV5vVr7t_YkU1Ps9HlyaI0KTREL7dHqXLM2xyqtDmEjdIIMAlZmII_D9Ba7xTYHQy4xT4cQEliWmTJxHwpA/s320/DSC09678.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoi An street</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p>belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-63532407227936486582023-05-21T18:04:00.001+10:002023-05-21T18:38:55.743+10:00Vietnam - first stop Hanoi<p>So - after a very long break from travelling - we have visited Vietnam for the first time in 13 years. Some revisits, some new visits, some changes, some things the same. This time I have done a lot of reading to understand the history of the country better*. It is long, convoluted and tragic history, and it is some kind of miracle that 'reunification' seems to have worked as well as it has. Having said that - it is perplexing that the pain and trauma of extended war followed by the Communist takeover in 1975 seem to have resulted in a system in which capitalism has triumphed, and social and wealth inequality are as entrenched as ever ...</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpchX2FIM4AIwyiT7pA9RPnrX4jsXuxHndt9ZZHhgcsIrA4MloNtAk-pfZaLdGy1iFNdgXB5zVS0kxlZe_GaNS5X_0QvAhlJuh2yfHE_0WHghPWB_hXa8pUOMPY6tiG-m6W1XJv8aysLMLNlmPRUu9nklsJ3OLifMTahVZOqbRDZZ7dDgd8SCRp0fihQ/s4032/2023-04-20%2021.37.35-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2682" data-original-width="4032" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpchX2FIM4AIwyiT7pA9RPnrX4jsXuxHndt9ZZHhgcsIrA4MloNtAk-pfZaLdGy1iFNdgXB5zVS0kxlZe_GaNS5X_0QvAhlJuh2yfHE_0WHghPWB_hXa8pUOMPY6tiG-m6W1XJv8aysLMLNlmPRUu9nklsJ3OLifMTahVZOqbRDZZ7dDgd8SCRp0fihQ/s320/2023-04-20%2021.37.35-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jazz club, French Quarter, Hanoi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUC_9W_GVyAM-OOvSp0WZWi1j6UlplbwmlRsiMs7iG5DHx5tOjCyFaQVFg5LOpj08LgVGneW7AK4ou9QrfVJ2zWSAywPEHp0xNQorSJSxxIoQ2P9RHyFqjJZBrllLLR4ADU74hELyT56Ckpq7SAo1qCCXbsUKNqABuBx6oh69TOt5vLGtimCDwtDKhiQ/s3212/2023-04-21%2013.49.18-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2409" data-original-width="3212" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUC_9W_GVyAM-OOvSp0WZWi1j6UlplbwmlRsiMs7iG5DHx5tOjCyFaQVFg5LOpj08LgVGneW7AK4ou9QrfVJ2zWSAywPEHp0xNQorSJSxxIoQ2P9RHyFqjJZBrllLLR4ADU74hELyT56Ckpq7SAo1qCCXbsUKNqABuBx6oh69TOt5vLGtimCDwtDKhiQ/s320/2023-04-21%2013.49.18-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street seller on Bun cha street<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGBSAWw9uh4WhEb1-7GlWN80qPfkFRewW9L2rM6zYF-8YjIkfD25B5HuJ4HQf4ohf37nNdSoL7pwR8NB8Y_ClYQGeW7zN3QH_APZvietpOHHSn06Q8WBtRtEd3vvlN0GzW91Z6LM8OBgJTcmTz3N8DJHmBPlyJeVMZbsJOf41rrOczMbRjkEI4_QruQw/s2672/DSC09096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1781" data-original-width="2672" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGBSAWw9uh4WhEb1-7GlWN80qPfkFRewW9L2rM6zYF-8YjIkfD25B5HuJ4HQf4ohf37nNdSoL7pwR8NB8Y_ClYQGeW7zN3QH_APZvietpOHHSn06Q8WBtRtEd3vvlN0GzW91Z6LM8OBgJTcmTz3N8DJHmBPlyJeVMZbsJOf41rrOczMbRjkEI4_QruQw/s320/DSC09096.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our hotel (Chris at table on right!)</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjycxgAP4l--UiG7ch_tO-vRZCiQ9lwc33PH1i_U2q6lT6lwdYnged678wyG-lbEdSEUKGD3gnDbp1ZD77ksiZke42Dkt8bCQ3svRv03lI_6MpcfHwSk-66RPrTstcjrqkvyhTWzIi0uBrF0IU0dM120FfOhFiwYA0G4dug1NdQrjFpHqKDz4yv2KX-rw/s2736/DSC09116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjycxgAP4l--UiG7ch_tO-vRZCiQ9lwc33PH1i_U2q6lT6lwdYnged678wyG-lbEdSEUKGD3gnDbp1ZD77ksiZke42Dkt8bCQ3svRv03lI_6MpcfHwSk-66RPrTstcjrqkvyhTWzIi0uBrF0IU0dM120FfOhFiwYA0G4dug1NdQrjFpHqKDz4yv2KX-rw/s320/DSC09116.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the lake ...</td></tr></tbody></table><p>HANOI</p><p>Oddly not a busy as in 2010, which was a Festival for Hanoi's 1000 year anniversary, and forced us to escape to the mountains. But still very busy and buzzing, and sadly far more polluted than we remembered. We stayed south of historic Hoan Kiem Lake, in the French Quarter, a tranquil respite from the chaos of the Old Quarter to the north. On weekends, roads around the lake are blocked to traffic, and locals are out in droves with their families, kids scooting around in miniature motorised police cars, fire engines and army tanks (!?)</p><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicI4OtCWrLgf94PtVm7ryZgNip7E1aiGzo-BU6jMOpjaWD01rdzIadDACOfgwi5EMOlXwDwm7pDY0f1oH5UCbt85ZUxFbcv9Ry2wKXEgYptXXVucUMy7i24Qp4vDzmWKAVY1EKH2N04eO0538b-Tw_9_Ga8iVWRI94kYuaRoVGjEA8xv3HhBr-yOQIRw/s2736/DSC09122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicI4OtCWrLgf94PtVm7ryZgNip7E1aiGzo-BU6jMOpjaWD01rdzIadDACOfgwi5EMOlXwDwm7pDY0f1oH5UCbt85ZUxFbcv9Ry2wKXEgYptXXVucUMy7i24Qp4vDzmWKAVY1EKH2N04eO0538b-Tw_9_Ga8iVWRI94kYuaRoVGjEA8xv3HhBr-yOQIRw/s320/DSC09122.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uncle Ho</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_aqBIvJPKPHS8lVxBipY3q-Gsr1SyTyyr3rE-d0BdKmLrQL2EmWFFHc54SmVYt490gCFYDrOWpEV_imLzFJfk3YZYP0RdMQ3aVjAdz59RLmsElZNLGQSXjEjo1t8TwBLeeHJM7mKZxY1Kv4nM9B188VnltZ5w7wWVpmKu7ZwqRhM2CKMQg93L2VXSg/s2736/DSC09131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_aqBIvJPKPHS8lVxBipY3q-Gsr1SyTyyr3rE-d0BdKmLrQL2EmWFFHc54SmVYt490gCFYDrOWpEV_imLzFJfk3YZYP0RdMQ3aVjAdz59RLmsElZNLGQSXjEjo1t8TwBLeeHJM7mKZxY1Kv4nM9B188VnltZ5w7wWVpmKu7ZwqRhM2CKMQg93L2VXSg/s320/DSC09131.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanoi street</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZm8ZOsAeE8zQH1qT_Nmbk25OjEnLPq3T3BrNPdMPk3lnFyVDNer2qpvDaMpEKwc4jKFHdXtEE30rmv9vXtdosXBTKwLC3pi79YLadVryvgVtnW9SpdwYYNaSdnd-Wyvus9AJigQUYbvxbou537rqtCINWtoqWQ2f0RHxvP_m9UNQaj9jPLJOoXPbMzQ/s2680/DSC09167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1752" data-original-width="2680" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZm8ZOsAeE8zQH1qT_Nmbk25OjEnLPq3T3BrNPdMPk3lnFyVDNer2qpvDaMpEKwc4jKFHdXtEE30rmv9vXtdosXBTKwLC3pi79YLadVryvgVtnW9SpdwYYNaSdnd-Wyvus9AJigQUYbvxbou537rqtCINWtoqWQ2f0RHxvP_m9UNQaj9jPLJOoXPbMzQ/s320/DSC09167.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the lake 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYeW80rds_dX_vUsxRX0cgU7n2p-q-ieZ4NZy_eBzKVsFUbwp32QxiJ_Z-VxLBO2aODNCSegLGC0aCkbFK4zz4IWRb-VWQot6nMCS8XJ_uEl6_bdDjUY4EB0e15Bdeb7mJs8_Ux5PC073Ut0F-6hHI4rXsFjalTppunlyS6P_9Vnf5IB5Jy3-nEOnkQ/s2736/DSC09196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2736" data-original-width="1824" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYeW80rds_dX_vUsxRX0cgU7n2p-q-ieZ4NZy_eBzKVsFUbwp32QxiJ_Z-VxLBO2aODNCSegLGC0aCkbFK4zz4IWRb-VWQot6nMCS8XJ_uEl6_bdDjUY4EB0e15Bdeb7mJs8_Ux5PC073Ut0F-6hHI4rXsFjalTppunlyS6P_9Vnf5IB5Jy3-nEOnkQ/s320/DSC09196.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our balcony</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxlx8R0iY9Ou_PrhWJl_K8UZj66qzWkbbDJSHC9XY1HnR0JKnjZNyvXMdshz1Xy-LN4i5h1CmRFGwAndtXx7CO1FBEb5etGsTXeWnrdnxOuDrhJqqQ39BieQQ8Qe1SaOjdUVjy6xY44shLBYzBgxhiElhMkJuQbsOsbxM3tSWsnIesxBMnJgjfx4JtjQ/s2736/DSC09200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxlx8R0iY9Ou_PrhWJl_K8UZj66qzWkbbDJSHC9XY1HnR0JKnjZNyvXMdshz1Xy-LN4i5h1CmRFGwAndtXx7CO1FBEb5etGsTXeWnrdnxOuDrhJqqQ39BieQQ8Qe1SaOjdUVjy6xY44shLBYzBgxhiElhMkJuQbsOsbxM3tSWsnIesxBMnJgjfx4JtjQ/s320/DSC09200.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanoi street 2</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiST4GhC3jsz8wSNERtmLhMVBiLADNgF59Z_rXRX9wahhOOlEXP6IUQEhFzPdgaV5tFbqcGyjDeCixirl2bXwbvUomEjQOPozg8NVNDyW5LQvHcKQGDfmJNAnKu-taCMLrW2DVX9F4sVbkLIRyUjoUigpbQZSf4IxXMDaEosHOTHWpCByEgqZQK7pYRBg/s2324/DSC09228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1550" data-original-width="2324" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiST4GhC3jsz8wSNERtmLhMVBiLADNgF59Z_rXRX9wahhOOlEXP6IUQEhFzPdgaV5tFbqcGyjDeCixirl2bXwbvUomEjQOPozg8NVNDyW5LQvHcKQGDfmJNAnKu-taCMLrW2DVX9F4sVbkLIRyUjoUigpbQZSf4IxXMDaEosHOTHWpCByEgqZQK7pYRBg/s320/DSC09228.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the lake 3</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQVqErRCp_eCD4xdA3Y0K-Hjjjhs4hh4GT8JN5tn811ik3uZepKcAxP6C34GKq8VUyGuLLxsouNsXVYZKK68mrr3CtjE9c-DVntlsgKUSEEXjz2mKXkRiMeuLjWjMRMnIdrzl4SoXv9jL6HhgY4jXCZfFQALEVRMVIFQN9fCHTYFPXcY42Dg-wHKacRg/s2656/DSC09251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1771" data-original-width="2656" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQVqErRCp_eCD4xdA3Y0K-Hjjjhs4hh4GT8JN5tn811ik3uZepKcAxP6C34GKq8VUyGuLLxsouNsXVYZKK68mrr3CtjE9c-DVntlsgKUSEEXjz2mKXkRiMeuLjWjMRMnIdrzl4SoXv9jL6HhgY4jXCZfFQALEVRMVIFQN9fCHTYFPXcY42Dg-wHKacRg/s320/DSC09251.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the lake 4</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_0ottGlHCnLi6cbn465VU8SceIUdeIJ7c-MGIIE8vLhLyeeXnr989F2ynY-DaTZDXttjxOEiIqQTpPUzt2j9qeTmu_bs12h0MO1OCeuvB99_3N8iyqMgC4TKRUPRDd_Mn3o5XThbOpao_lEAeRGWkLK_a0s4qRglFx_Rk7QgKuVFyTJkVwKIBO-xMg/s2736/DSC09271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_0ottGlHCnLi6cbn465VU8SceIUdeIJ7c-MGIIE8vLhLyeeXnr989F2ynY-DaTZDXttjxOEiIqQTpPUzt2j9qeTmu_bs12h0MO1OCeuvB99_3N8iyqMgC4TKRUPRDd_Mn3o5XThbOpao_lEAeRGWkLK_a0s4qRglFx_Rk7QgKuVFyTJkVwKIBO-xMg/s320/DSC09271.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the lake 5</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYksZvPpzbJVaVNTRuDjD8LtBiDiS7NfSIBZJ1VtbPw4HhwXJih1SrAqlkMuub1LyHpNx_ReNW4E3LE8qpDaGtQlJYW6_xE-GQ4y-mB6Qe1IXvxlC0E9f46CTqYXPiPoGVtYb-Ikm-gYCmtqB8AIs51bAZVyMQPm2InNHLomdprlmU1f3KKGWlnJ3-Aw/s2736/DSC09281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="2736" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYksZvPpzbJVaVNTRuDjD8LtBiDiS7NfSIBZJ1VtbPw4HhwXJih1SrAqlkMuub1LyHpNx_ReNW4E3LE8qpDaGtQlJYW6_xE-GQ4y-mB6Qe1IXvxlC0E9f46CTqYXPiPoGVtYb-Ikm-gYCmtqB8AIs51bAZVyMQPm2InNHLomdprlmU1f3KKGWlnJ3-Aw/s320/DSC09281.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family day!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>* Reading:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The Sympathizer - Viet Thanh Nguyen</li><li>A Wavering Grace - Gavin Young</li><li>The Quiet American - Graham Greene</li><li>Hanoi Adieu - Mandaley Perkins</li><li>You don't belong here - Elizabeth Becker</li><li>The Mountains Sing - Nguyen Phan Que Mai</li></ul><p></p><p><br /></p>belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-85782913004378795782018-12-24T16:44:00.002+11:002018-12-24T16:44:36.671+11:00Udaipur ... and the long road home<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
At the <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Review-g297672-d545796-Reviews-Jaiwana_Haveli-Udaipur_Udaipur_District_Rajasthan.html" target="_blank">Jaiwana Haveli</a> I have upgraded to a ‘corner room’ which gives the best lake views, but on arrival we are shown to a different room. It’s a large refurbished room in a more modern wing of the hotel, but as it is twice the size and with better facilities than the ‘corner room’, we are satisfied. Udaipur is very touristed, and this is reflected in the more professional management of the accommodation. And also in the large numbers of western tourists, tourist shops and tuktuks surrounding our hotel. But at night it is quieter than Ghanerao!<br />
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We are situated at Lal Ghat, one of many ghats (bathing places) around Lake Pichola. Seeing local residents bathe and wash at these places is a common sight. Each ghat has a small temple, and the adjoining waters may be considered sacred.<br />
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We eat most nights at the rooftop restaurant at Jaiwana - it’s good, not expensive, and a lovely location, and we get to have breakfast there too. One night we walk over (just a minute or two away) to <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Review-g297672-d306986-Reviews-Jagat_Niwas_Palace_Hotel-Udaipur_Udaipur_District_Rajasthan.html" target="_blank">Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel</a>, which has a classy restaurant (also a gorgeous hotel, but lake view rooms a bit too pricy for us). The location is unbeatable, but we are disappointed with the food, the tandoori platters (veg and non-veg) are rather boring and dry, and the extensive drinks menu is expensive. A special mention to <a href="https://www.milletsofmewar.org/" target="_blank">Millets of Mewar</a>, a healthy food restaurant, where we have the best cardamom lassi and organic peanut butter cookies.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBvVVToqqroXzzaix6ovRIWITJUFmXOVBDmr_K0vZasmxCX9w-SnnhuaZpNDlV5oj2HHbIEqpzk9wEHndrBDKJz1C1nV2Z5F6vyastXKJEetnG2NrYZjiwrMG5dxJVnlXQ2jdgVtgM9NC_/s1600/DSC04937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBvVVToqqroXzzaix6ovRIWITJUFmXOVBDmr_K0vZasmxCX9w-SnnhuaZpNDlV5oj2HHbIEqpzk9wEHndrBDKJz1C1nV2Z5F6vyastXKJEetnG2NrYZjiwrMG5dxJVnlXQ2jdgVtgM9NC_/s400/DSC04937.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jaiwana Haveli - view from restaurant terrace</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast table</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQgPeUfSed92l0zlhy35YsO1jrsvX2mD1AULf5NRoax5I8AB5PEj25wEnEyneE16bq08hQcgdJPeJZ7ecEXrTFKr-Cx-aCIG-Tj9FhqRHZbH7falVsR6NQ_rHqYfyNaXvoUIVpLYBS9Ob/s1600/DSC05076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQgPeUfSed92l0zlhy35YsO1jrsvX2mD1AULf5NRoax5I8AB5PEj25wEnEyneE16bq08hQcgdJPeJZ7ecEXrTFKr-Cx-aCIG-Tj9FhqRHZbH7falVsR6NQ_rHqYfyNaXvoUIVpLYBS9Ob/s400/DSC05076.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn view from 'deluxe' room</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Ip5FKqJDoeBUd3I6_ZV13qC1jCUHeXvR3EGsNODdlj5yuqKZo-jOegqrJpFo30ryBGe3eCazDq2ctDym0tZO4CPDp0iJot7Dtn57j4Ipcs4qZbFXTsXPwpeAVwxgqBM6ohv9lOFjLaZG/s1600/DSC04962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Ip5FKqJDoeBUd3I6_ZV13qC1jCUHeXvR3EGsNODdlj5yuqKZo-jOegqrJpFo30ryBGe3eCazDq2ctDym0tZO4CPDp0iJot7Dtn57j4Ipcs4qZbFXTsXPwpeAVwxgqBM6ohv9lOFjLaZG/s400/DSC04962.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bathing at Ambrai Ghat</td></tr>
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While the tuktuk drivers have their own ideas about where we might like to drive to during our visit, we are determined to stay around the town and walk. I decide I’d like to get out of the tourist area and we walk up to Hathipole market, a couple of km away. There are few tourists, but it is very busy and dirty, and as everywhere in towns, difficult to walk with the amount of traffic, hooting motorcycles, dust and rubbish. After walking around for some time before finally finding a working ATM, Chris has had enough. But before we head back to Lal Ghat we get a tuktuk to drop us at the wine shop. I ask for <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desi_daru" target="_blank">desi daru</a>, a cheap, locally produced liquor, but am told that it’s 'only available in the lower shops’, so we stick with Indian blended 'scotch' whisky, which is not bad. An elephant ambles by - the one and only we have seen in our trip.<br />
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I do not do much shopping here, it’s just too touristy to be comfortable. But we do find a nice dusty-old-shop (DOS) just around the corner. An amazing collection of bric a brac and sculptures, quite highly priced, but I do finally find a few cheaper items: an old boteh (paisley) printing block and two amulets. I chat to the shop owner about art and photography and technology, apologise for not spending more, and tell him that I will send custom his way, but he has no business card! (I think <a href="https://www.indiamart.com/rareart-export/" target="_blank">this is the place</a>).<br />
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I also want to check out the government craft shop just out of the city centre. I have tried these shops before, and they tend to be in out of the way places, with good fixed prices, but a poor range of stock. I admit it’s the fixed prices that are attractive to me, I hate more and more all the haggling with shopkeepers in the tourist shops. But the ceramics here are poor quality, the textiles just a bit better, and I pick up some rustic patchwork cushion covers. The back room has miniature paintings, which seem to be the usual rather kitschy stuff, produced for tourists. But I see an older, slightly scruffy painting pinned to the wall - in spite of the condition the quality of painting is a cut above, and the price is ok ($28). I find out later that the artist, <a href="https://maukaa.org/home-2/tilakgitai/" target="_blank">Tilak Gitai</a>, is a prolific and much lauded painter of miniatures from Jaipur.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXquhTVfsBe08mreM2ng5gtLW5t1tp2twymLd6S_PdTMgBrVTP7ARpwiieULbntRuIAzuJKMTF_VY0o9fFUYZA4KKx0ZU1hniZmhFmioJXWBnqTb_upCaMiVFHBFGUprXlGydw3p5MQDrs/s1600/2018-12-23+11.50.43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXquhTVfsBe08mreM2ng5gtLW5t1tp2twymLd6S_PdTMgBrVTP7ARpwiieULbntRuIAzuJKMTF_VY0o9fFUYZA4KKx0ZU1hniZmhFmioJXWBnqTb_upCaMiVFHBFGUprXlGydw3p5MQDrs/s400/2018-12-23+11.50.43.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tilak Gatai miniature painting</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMi0WWDaYTBQ_Qkrz6SoQwgdhBfIjRnNJ2OICkx5Tu9EnfJoZI3kuU463fZIpN_MkSxxNiiF2SkxPSPmwsgEPops5gWT3uwiVYZXuniA_3L6TGvxHB2i-X8m-CB7gDWfu4QgJifsAApSOp/s1600/DSC05614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMi0WWDaYTBQ_Qkrz6SoQwgdhBfIjRnNJ2OICkx5Tu9EnfJoZI3kuU463fZIpN_MkSxxNiiF2SkxPSPmwsgEPops5gWT3uwiVYZXuniA_3L6TGvxHB2i-X8m-CB7gDWfu4QgJifsAApSOp/s400/DSC05614.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Elephant!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdpsOhLisO6uZgwDmLBAb21-yB7CQldlU8W1lLqYe1xL78qSgNk3nWkUSSkfMXsYB5PlTSN8-KNnRcPpRHNilKEGjq90IZVlJz0NtqNplf1krhBQFESGWdkdUg5Rrmsvy2xpJP4i-BAUk/s1600/DSC05404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdpsOhLisO6uZgwDmLBAb21-yB7CQldlU8W1lLqYe1xL78qSgNk3nWkUSSkfMXsYB5PlTSN8-KNnRcPpRHNilKEGjq90IZVlJz0NtqNplf1krhBQFESGWdkdUg5Rrmsvy2xpJP4i-BAUk/s400/DSC05404.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bathing at the ghat 2</td></tr>
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So … we ‘do’ the following -<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/City_Palace,_Udaipur" target="_blank">City Palace</a> - truly spectacular, but crowded with tour groups. Is it racist of me to say that the French groups are particularly annoying? Yes, I guess it is.<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bagore-ki-Haveli" target="_blank">Bagore-ki-Haveli</a> - a charming museum in a restored old house, that also hosts dance/puppet performances in the evening. Fun, but not a patch on Balinese performances we saw earlier in the year. There is definitely an opportunity in Rajasthan to manage regular folk dance performances in historic locations, it would be well supported as dance is so popular here.<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bharatiya_Lok_Kala_Mandal" target="_blank">Lok Kala Mandal</a> - a very dusty, crusty old folk museum outside the old city, that has a good puppet and dance show in the evening. It's so retro, nothing seems to have changed since it opened in 1952.<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ahar_Cenotaphs" target="_blank">Ahar Royal cenotaphs</a>, also a bit out of town, a marvellous, slightly unkempt cremation ground full of old monuments to maharajahs and maharanis. Sadly the nearby museum was closed, due to renovation or something …<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jagdish_Temple,_Udaipur" target="_blank">Jagdish Temple</a> - a wonderful temple in old city centre with multiple daily ceremonies, gorgeous carvings, very welcoming, but no photos inside :(<br />
<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq9dR6oDGCHF-jbkTHHqH61N__2LctpGjcYConS8IlAeM6Gf0Fnt5IPT4Ltu5seA6HAW1jBxI9bOf9Bu7-aWPt1dFq3kUKHuHcnp2YIWpZ5yuBjRx24H-AIG80jJXZJmZ0FqJfkjHuyjx4/s1600/DSC05171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq9dR6oDGCHF-jbkTHHqH61N__2LctpGjcYConS8IlAeM6Gf0Fnt5IPT4Ltu5seA6HAW1jBxI9bOf9Bu7-aWPt1dFq3kUKHuHcnp2YIWpZ5yuBjRx24H-AIG80jJXZJmZ0FqJfkjHuyjx4/s400/DSC05171.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Crowds at City Palace</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5psjwVU38fYb7QfWM_CCmXK34cFOQsgYRkN9rfpa6pNucBnimLB3Pz5I7i63Nb9xaxO09O3lgc2fKP5hVp9VJMQgPDeGRBQIc2EISjUcA4cX3bwVGqG8yYU4i45JJhq3O8aK89ACL8rO8/s1600/DSC05012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5psjwVU38fYb7QfWM_CCmXK34cFOQsgYRkN9rfpa6pNucBnimLB3Pz5I7i63Nb9xaxO09O3lgc2fKP5hVp9VJMQgPDeGRBQIc2EISjUcA4cX3bwVGqG8yYU4i45JJhq3O8aK89ACL8rO8/s400/DSC05012.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Folk dance at Bagore-ki-Haveli</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJDL6DizGl3ON6Du2vCLjgupaE-H8RYTl58cnJXiOBBJmOKdMNWnwJrRo45ySu7rO6VoZ-JlwmMrAQFsALY_kdkvCA664zr2l4Zijw1L1lQA9UJMWUl01G2QRDy985RKDWCZXfp_hfsYW/s1600/DSC05197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJDL6DizGl3ON6Du2vCLjgupaE-H8RYTl58cnJXiOBBJmOKdMNWnwJrRo45ySu7rO6VoZ-JlwmMrAQFsALY_kdkvCA664zr2l4Zijw1L1lQA9UJMWUl01G2QRDy985RKDWCZXfp_hfsYW/s400/DSC05197.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mirrored apartment at City Palace museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDgCS6kRCrrujlR9sUguApaiZA-zEWVFyDyrYNkyhyphenhyphensu-eA_ONo6mMyJnvr8O2-NnRn_GincarZgv0C-xDfsYi_XtswYG_SQN7TzVUvlGFPKovQA9dqXyPKFclIMPoh8YPy2O8Wq3m10P/s1600/DSC05520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDgCS6kRCrrujlR9sUguApaiZA-zEWVFyDyrYNkyhyphenhyphensu-eA_ONo6mMyJnvr8O2-NnRn_GincarZgv0C-xDfsYi_XtswYG_SQN7TzVUvlGFPKovQA9dqXyPKFclIMPoh8YPy2O8Wq3m10P/s400/DSC05520.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dancers at Lok Kala Mandal</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiNcZ2jOYfs8ZYNH85Y_N5JPunD45moC7oSBPMADnk-htDwrpl2mdpp-vV10V4YjtoK7NIC4nwucQ86hyf_Ds0OrpBwT_8BjqpKUCPYq6BRte2FmiMcqUI1d2Op14omTLkSZ76MVQmOm4/s1600/DSC05607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiNcZ2jOYfs8ZYNH85Y_N5JPunD45moC7oSBPMADnk-htDwrpl2mdpp-vV10V4YjtoK7NIC4nwucQ86hyf_Ds0OrpBwT_8BjqpKUCPYq6BRte2FmiMcqUI1d2Op14omTLkSZ76MVQmOm4/s400/DSC05607.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahar royal cenotaphs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIrYD6uMDqWruDPCixN2jbWKKkLAfEqyy2-6nA3yN1HpgtAd-UFEzS8ZGVP1qhcMK7wJm7OcHhF442hNbRD9Snazhlldvs3NICUqz-qnUCwQ6sg_fSKellLKA7hHMZs2CpGu3JgcamRun/s1600/DSC05676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIrYD6uMDqWruDPCixN2jbWKKkLAfEqyy2-6nA3yN1HpgtAd-UFEzS8ZGVP1qhcMK7wJm7OcHhF442hNbRD9Snazhlldvs3NICUqz-qnUCwQ6sg_fSKellLKA7hHMZs2CpGu3JgcamRun/s400/DSC05676.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carving at Jagdish Temple</td></tr>
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On the whole, Udaipur is still a really lovely place with its lakes, parks and palaces. Yes, tourists are a pest, but I console myself that we bring in the means to keep the cultural beauty going. And walk down any side street in the old city - the tourists are gone and it is just local neighbourhoods with cows and donkeys and chickens - lovely. Sadly, like elsewhere in India, motorised traffic, particularly motorcycles, is taking over and this makes walking no pleasure.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Back to Delhi …</h3>
I have booked an overnight train back to Delhi, 3rd class AC sleeper (2nd class all booked out). It turns out that our carriage is booked out by a school excursion group, so our compartment is full of giggling teenage girls. The teachers do the rounds: ‘Now don’t you disturb sir and madam!’. The girls chorus, ‘No, it is fine, they are our friends!’ It is true, they are very friendly and lovely and solicitous of our comfort, helping us to make beds when we are tired.<br />
<br />
I have an idea that when we get back to Delhi we will have breakfast at Nizamuddin Station cafeteria, then stroll slowly to our guest house, about a 20 minute walk away. But when we arrive, it is chaos! I never saw so many people, tuktuks, cars … Chris, who is feeling unwell, says - Please let's get a taxi - but the traffic is in gridlock, so we walk a little way to extricate ourselves, then hail a tuktuk. He drives straight back into the bedlam! Oh well, we think - he knows the way - it’s just a 5 minute drive. Actually no, he doesn’t know the way, and stops multiple times to ask bystanders, one of whom says ‘A-block? that’s not Nizamuddin E, it’s Nizamuddin W’. That is so wrong! I whip out Google Maps and start directing, and we finally get there.<br />
<br />
It must be the food I picked up at Udaipur station that’s brought Chris down with a tummy bug - damn! I leave him for the day and check out the National Craft Museum - stunning collections of carvings, ceramics and especially textiles - except there’s a power cut that means several galleries are barely viewable - very India. And do a bit more shopping - the Craft Museum Shop (where shopping is by the light of mobile phones!); Sunder Nagar - lovely but pricy antique shops; Khan Market for Fabindia and Anokhi (again). Mainly pick up some wood block printed fabrics, really a favourite thing - a curtain, a tablecloth, a bedspread - somehow they are better value than buying by the metre).<br />
<br />
Next day - Chris feeling somewhat better and dosed up - we head to the airport for the direct flight home, an advantage of flying Air India. But we also experience one of the disadvantages - our entertainment system AND reading light are not functioning. We take a sleeping pill and plan to snooze the flight away, until, at 2am Sydney time, we are woken for a meal. Oh, the joys of long-distance flying!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_toBFztid-HPBPEdtqZAsY6x0zJ8jx4GxWoEXtI0W4ew9B_pkU5spDCE_eSNqz8G0005MFIxeUpwCn2bsHY_Ww1HXjpTC2PUXG657EL0c94l1eIso9cUYOF_yL4LdBwWyYhy48NDsVhZ/s1600/2018-12-24+16.12.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_toBFztid-HPBPEdtqZAsY6x0zJ8jx4GxWoEXtI0W4ew9B_pkU5spDCE_eSNqz8G0005MFIxeUpwCn2bsHY_Ww1HXjpTC2PUXG657EL0c94l1eIso9cUYOF_yL4LdBwWyYhy48NDsVhZ/s400/2018-12-24+16.12.18.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood block printed fabric</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga63URmJG3MeV7Zbc8eQEiWG1cnhf-mAvDuS8FdtzEezG6m4zK4TYxrbpVwL6FU5vPKkCGoL9YjeIFpjNdMNyNqkoQma8TIRTBIqtQOlh8fN0dd9NQqGCNnDkSpvLQV1gSM57s5r0zW01o/s1600/DSC03259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga63URmJG3MeV7Zbc8eQEiWG1cnhf-mAvDuS8FdtzEezG6m4zK4TYxrbpVwL6FU5vPKkCGoL9YjeIFpjNdMNyNqkoQma8TIRTBIqtQOlh8fN0dd9NQqGCNnDkSpvLQV1gSM57s5r0zW01o/s400/DSC03259.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favourite Anokhi dress</td></tr>
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What was the most memorable part of our trip? India is a mess of contradictions, and is certainly challenging as well as fascinating:<br />
<br />
Terrible amounts of rubbish and pollution, and an atmosphere choked with dust in a drought year, but breathtaking beauty of some of the landscapes and historic buildings.<br />
Awful ugliness in the evident poverty, and the (oh too familiar) greed and entitlement of the richest in society, but beauty everywhere in everyday life, including the floral tributes of temple offerings and the startling multihued saris of the most humble road-workers and sweepers.<br />
Great respect and even veneration for animals, and a preponderance of vegetarianism, but the condition of many roaming cows and dogs is sad, and the treatment of domestic animals seems cruel by our standards.<br />
Some of the highlights have been staying in characterful heritage properties in small villages, where tourists are still a novelty, and we get to have a glimpse of real village life.<br />
<br />
But everywhere we went:<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
The PEOPLE ...</h3>
Nowhere would you meet more welcoming, kind and curious people. After two minutes of conversation you are asked for intimate details of your life:<br />
How old are you? How many children? Are they married? Why do you look so young? (My ‘blonde’ hair! One of the schoolgirls on the train says - You are so pretty! just like Barbie!).<br />
There is so much deprivation and poverty, but we never perceive resentment, and we are welcomed everywhere. One expects, being a British colony for so long, that English would be widely spoken, but not so, even staff at tourist accommodations. There are many difficult and tortured conversations, we knowing no Hindi, and they no English, but the attempt at conversation is always there. There are frequent invitations to come home for tea, or a meal - though we don’t follow these up. It seems strange that just as we see Indians as exotic people, they also see us that way, and are fascinated, and love to photograph us.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheM1WtLxY9_rLGXxi4tDbUtlqkxaOchR_ssemcb1XuaX_V5uk6myGA48UJfp2qNuzUTP-G5pbUkQX4I8EoR-OUKPPbGqDVt_ZSDMQ0RYE1MHlGSAGQOVHiDqbFwTBA_tXXxO2zhMHTQEzi/s1600/DSC04624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheM1WtLxY9_rLGXxi4tDbUtlqkxaOchR_ssemcb1XuaX_V5uk6myGA48UJfp2qNuzUTP-G5pbUkQX4I8EoR-OUKPPbGqDVt_ZSDMQ0RYE1MHlGSAGQOVHiDqbFwTBA_tXXxO2zhMHTQEzi/s400/DSC04624.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly locals in Ghanerao</td></tr>
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<tr><td><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdntGQo9bdmT8UixkGFhI1mkFpDgHepY81qo-VnkpEYvwEYo_5SHhc5Onn9KEsLgn-9obFE_a504Xv-96XdeloBU8cfw_zCcl3cW6FbVgP4VTypyBt0EvoQbEm0c85CM-kWCi9LC122xl/s400/DSC05288.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="290" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Ganesha and </span>Hindu bling!</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
and the PROBLEMS</h3>
The Hindu religion seems such fun with the bling, the festivals, the dancing - the most sacred colour is pink, for goodness sake! But still, it is complicit in social oppression via the caste system, and terrible discrimination and sexual violence against women. And there is the impression of a society that, while a democracy, is in some ways quite dysfunctional with endemic corruption in politics and public service. How will they ever solve emerging and critical issues such as pollution and traffic congestion? (The population is expected to outstrip China in just a few years, and over 50% of the population is under 25 years old.) The living conditions that most Indians, but especially the poorest, must endure is unimaginable for us.<br />
<br />
People ask me - why travel in India when it is so physically and mentally challenging? I say - that is exactly why.</div>
belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-84918953158631339942018-12-23T15:36:00.000+11:002018-12-23T15:37:06.330+11:00Ghanerao and beyond ...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
At last we are in Ghanerao - and the Royal Castle is not quite as ‘royal’ as I anticipated, but is quaint and charmingly ramshackle. After being shown a large but slightly gloomy room, we select a tiny eyrie on the top floor - small bedroom, gigantic bathroom, and multiple views and terraces among the birds. After relatively busy Jodhpur, we are looking forward to another good chill-out, punctuated by village walks. But on the first evening - pomegranate cocktails on the terrace, and another multi-dish dinner that does us in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjli_9yHkbK8P_NCH7FboBH7eoPVmPY4NMa1D8PH_BW7jBpgiKqQqdgz9CS1GHVKiZgM307AQjrpJcEx77vEDkkzedS1HcLles729nRKSkkF2H6OCckjFRIf21RHJh2OdrVgQ3q-3FaSkcu/s1600/DSC04707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjli_9yHkbK8P_NCH7FboBH7eoPVmPY4NMa1D8PH_BW7jBpgiKqQqdgz9CS1GHVKiZgM307AQjrpJcEx77vEDkkzedS1HcLles729nRKSkkF2H6OCckjFRIf21RHJh2OdrVgQ3q-3FaSkcu/s400/DSC04707.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the terrace, Ghanerao Royal Castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Vj8dcWsmzRJwF9AbVEC8GvJnte-jlZpzLoVj1uQ4STkHLSdU8bvwIA6ygW9wCmqVDIKRcQrAEWdqn7m59kbTjRPd0GAl648bSc9Lht_EdxMKfIQtroj7f9FZ8Gy0uogK3vC1IGJgqhBG/s1600/DSC04766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Vj8dcWsmzRJwF9AbVEC8GvJnte-jlZpzLoVj1uQ4STkHLSdU8bvwIA6ygW9wCmqVDIKRcQrAEWdqn7m59kbTjRPd0GAl648bSc9Lht_EdxMKfIQtroj7f9FZ8Gy0uogK3vC1IGJgqhBG/s400/DSC04766.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our huge bathroom!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUqVy1szjq0Dt6B1b-SBDkdbUYds6C2jN67kHKJVevtrHLe-rkjMyxWaDkG6UFKqMOb_oVWMHw_sVGQ6AnLx7iDIZX3hm0q18vLFMA4nMfn39bksgA44ZeR3hraSYYebhw9Wwg-fEnW0H/s1600/DSC04472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1194" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUqVy1szjq0Dt6B1b-SBDkdbUYds6C2jN67kHKJVevtrHLe-rkjMyxWaDkG6UFKqMOb_oVWMHw_sVGQ6AnLx7iDIZX3hm0q18vLFMA4nMfn39bksgA44ZeR3hraSYYebhw9Wwg-fEnW0H/s400/DSC04472.jpg" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our tiny eyrie</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWngY2zzRnvSDJU2N1AOJ22tRJ8R9mmQa8uP9jfpVM0mo-AgrkrPxL6JoT1ICezCrHoaJ7HXDKztNVEkCzKwi-2Tp2Li0t0WURoGLOxo6mxeulxmSt88-buU6ACOIJxuiCMKQ80Z7DzSHO/s1600/DSC04503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWngY2zzRnvSDJU2N1AOJ22tRJ8R9mmQa8uP9jfpVM0mo-AgrkrPxL6JoT1ICezCrHoaJ7HXDKztNVEkCzKwi-2Tp2Li0t0WURoGLOxo6mxeulxmSt88-buU6ACOIJxuiCMKQ80Z7DzSHO/s400/DSC04503.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sitting area, Ghanerao Royal Castle</td></tr>
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Ghanerao is a sizeable and relatively well-to-do looking village, and there are some historical structures that we would like to check out, including step-wells and a cemetery with cenotaphs in the form of chaatri. First, I have to seek out a small shoe stall that we spotted while driving through the village. It is being run by two young girls, who have no English, but finally manage to tell me that a pair of slippers will be 700rp ($14). I assume this is tourist price, but it seems reasonable. The slippers are stiff, embroidered but slightly smelly camel leather. The girls pull down almost every pair, but it’s difficult to find ones that fit! Especially as they are designed without left and right foot - the idea is that they will wear to the shape of your feet. A crowd gathers, and there is a good laugh every time I try a new pair. Finally I do purchase some, and decide that even if they never do quite wear in, it is worth it for the shopping experience.<br />
<br />
We wander on and find a quite impressive step-well, very depleted of water. It seems that these are not generally now in use, although it may be different after the monsoon. We see most water collected from street pumps, and we gather much of this is artesian (certainly the water in Ghanerao is the hardest we have encountered - I don’t dare to wash my hair!). Rajasthan has had a very poor monsoon this year and most places are in serious drought - Chris still has a cough from Diwali in Delhi, exacerbated by the dust everywhere. But Ghanerao no longer feels like desert country - it is surrounded by hills and jungle, and things seem a little damper and greener.<br />
<br />
We have been told that today is a Muslim festival day, and we have seen decorations along some of the main street. At one spot that is beautifully decorated with hanging marigold garlands, a cow casually munches on the flowers. A woman emerges beating with a stick and yelling. ‘Get out, you mangy beast!’, or something of the sort. Muslims, we guess, don’t have to be nice to the holy cows. As we walk on we hear loud music approaching - it’s a parade! Men come first, then the reigning dignitaries on decorated vehicles, followed by women and children, all dressed in their finest, and some of the girls plastered in make-up. It’s colourful, lively and VERY loud.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU01o9Jnx8_AlsrAvuEWYeRSCEoCi93lzpLcxfahjY-rRxKWQhqrsUQgnQ6C9Xt_2mGCO02OeZjAm9eNupWPRmcJJnhmDi-WEJVIEMynDPP-YKy61gaEP2l48w6h3X_Mk88HQ0Ykoh_MZh/s1600/DSC04557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU01o9Jnx8_AlsrAvuEWYeRSCEoCi93lzpLcxfahjY-rRxKWQhqrsUQgnQ6C9Xt_2mGCO02OeZjAm9eNupWPRmcJJnhmDi-WEJVIEMynDPP-YKy61gaEP2l48w6h3X_Mk88HQ0Ykoh_MZh/s400/DSC04557.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Buying slippers, Ghanerao</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQqhxn1_frCx8icjpgAfoxJ1qjfXz8_39_yRj_hMAtUrkaPyzcLABUzbQF2_YC-bll3v8woz5HAXbNA4PnGkcWuAP5LOwgafHVqJvyOuYKXg_8g8J1gOWoOnxLAUHsi_gKbC9lAMlsqIh/s1600/DSC04602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQqhxn1_frCx8icjpgAfoxJ1qjfXz8_39_yRj_hMAtUrkaPyzcLABUzbQF2_YC-bll3v8woz5HAXbNA4PnGkcWuAP5LOwgafHVqJvyOuYKXg_8g8J1gOWoOnxLAUHsi_gKbC9lAMlsqIh/s400/DSC04602.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Muslim festival, Ghanerao</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnLIGTPzocJSztmuuUCQXAlScx0ztCgLpavmzfWGNTPl-i5i-bqTGFsVjK24N7NVsEOGytRaGTN56Lz0mzicno39DOEHMPtEgiuWcdy1UnpWHG0RYlupl8QWo2ePy6yPApHHpnqSYryIJ/s1600/DSC04606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnLIGTPzocJSztmuuUCQXAlScx0ztCgLpavmzfWGNTPl-i5i-bqTGFsVjK24N7NVsEOGytRaGTN56Lz0mzicno39DOEHMPtEgiuWcdy1UnpWHG0RYlupl8QWo2ePy6yPApHHpnqSYryIJ/s400/DSC04606.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Muslim festival, Ghanerao</td></tr>
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Ghanerao has some upmarket neighbourhoods, but no shortage of crumbling old houses, wall paintings, doors and gates. The whole place is a palimpsest, and we happily wander taking photos and videos, and stopping for the occasional ’selfie’ with locals (their selfie, not ours).<br />
<br />
At sunset, for atmosphere, and coolness, the chaatri park, which is weedy, neglected and atmospheric.<br />
After the usual cocktails and dinner in the gorgeous dining pavilion (the set menu dinner is, as it has been in other heritage stays, fresh, authentic and delicious), we are ready as usual for an early night. But Ghanerao has a plethora of temples which seem to vie with each other for the loudest (amplified) devotional music each evening. For a little village it’s a noisy place! We have to keep the windows closed in order to sleep.<br />
<br />
On the final day, an interesting walk with manager Kamal through a nearby tribal farming village where we visit farming families, and the school. He tells us on the way about his own background - educated village boy, went to university, has worked in upmarket hotels, but is in Ghanerao because it’s close to his home village. He doesn’t like working with the non-professional staff there! We think we know who he is talking about. It’s fascinating, but feels voyeuristic, to be traipsing around through homes in this village, so we take few photos and videos. People are very welcoming, but it does feel intrusive. Kamal waxes long about the clean and lovely lifestyle here, but we see quite extreme poverty and very hard work. We are told that no payment is made to the villagers for their hospitality, so we make a donation of exercise books and pencils to the village school, to appease our conscience.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdx6wPOzYqvpwk83V1In4duNE_inB17Fss4_qCTP12QPg6wBoRoq_JsLCvuWQgqEUpNqwpJ_H5MSQymEE9fcWmVdjYAOjdyyRuHBtjRLqpSX9u7Q4qMDrcv9-Xui5Fy4pgLavfs1X1mdi/s1600/DSC04772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdx6wPOzYqvpwk83V1In4duNE_inB17Fss4_qCTP12QPg6wBoRoq_JsLCvuWQgqEUpNqwpJ_H5MSQymEE9fcWmVdjYAOjdyyRuHBtjRLqpSX9u7Q4qMDrcv9-Xui5Fy4pgLavfs1X1mdi/s400/DSC04772.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crumbling old wall - palimpsest</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLusIIAqdCCnx2SvM227yaJ8s-pTWvN_ydC5jO5UMydyO4gVute4dJQnHWGtJHHVuk-LDpghMP_EaUuzFM6uxMFFPqxzwCShSip3TMvbt5oywiqbahCW_wz8Y16sTgQvYWreJdDTP9Qyl/s1600/DSC04781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLusIIAqdCCnx2SvM227yaJ8s-pTWvN_ydC5jO5UMydyO4gVute4dJQnHWGtJHHVuk-LDpghMP_EaUuzFM6uxMFFPqxzwCShSip3TMvbt5oywiqbahCW_wz8Y16sTgQvYWreJdDTP9Qyl/s400/DSC04781.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Ghanerao girls</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
</h3>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CD1jN2KRTwCTHC40HHIOxEqKBWFQ54N6AvBf2NN46feaZJeiyN-mk-5E-uZI9YReNxvdN9JrHSPHiWN0UhGFvZzgXX2C4vdXXwXJmRtQ6Gf_JrJOot89nc51n-AOAS1jkyKZFPZm9i9N/s1600/DSC04637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CD1jN2KRTwCTHC40HHIOxEqKBWFQ54N6AvBf2NN46feaZJeiyN-mk-5E-uZI9YReNxvdN9JrHSPHiWN0UhGFvZzgXX2C4vdXXwXJmRtQ6Gf_JrJOot89nc51n-AOAS1jkyKZFPZm9i9N/s400/DSC04637.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cenotaphs, Ghanerao</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmTyme7Mllk9EEDupY-1jg4UMxksf9mq0rETFvpfbhmsZiv5oGXOl-WwL0S7B3Mt9rqJmtjnl3Koed15N2IQPR85t_ozlhJfE2XOC_M_s-EfZl0enFJx0qGc-bRG869_aZvL_sOUqFsSFO/s1600/DSC04736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmTyme7Mllk9EEDupY-1jg4UMxksf9mq0rETFvpfbhmsZiv5oGXOl-WwL0S7B3Mt9rqJmtjnl3Koed15N2IQPR85t_ozlhJfE2XOC_M_s-EfZl0enFJx0qGc-bRG869_aZvL_sOUqFsSFO/s400/DSC04736.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tribal village farmer with garden</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ZAl-NgO-EKYeEfyZ59U71ATAbbjQ2thU1EjWjbhFkunhAVa7_Sg7iYM9k8AvjgiSjgSQez_CpjeFGN-_gMNpAZpwXepSBQ5MSgnfDX4jBTWHplDrR2kzCuVV0uu6kWqrBpgQpSADyAqb/s1600/DSC04735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ZAl-NgO-EKYeEfyZ59U71ATAbbjQ2thU1EjWjbhFkunhAVa7_Sg7iYM9k8AvjgiSjgSQez_CpjeFGN-_gMNpAZpwXepSBQ5MSgnfDX4jBTWHplDrR2kzCuVV0uu6kWqrBpgQpSADyAqb/s400/DSC04735.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Her kitchen - mud floor, grinding stone, clay stove</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
The scenic route ...</h3>
The drive to Udaipur is with our Ghanerao driver Tara, via Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh. On the map it is just a hop and skip between these places, by road, as usual, a different story: it will be an all day drive. It's a mountainous area and the route is circuitous and very picturesque, so different from the flat desert landscape in northern Rajasthan.<br />
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Ranakpur has an important Jain Temple, reportedly one of the richest in India, and it is certainly an impressive carved white marble edifice that looks like it’s made of icing sugar for a wedding of giants. As soon as we arrive, and I am overwhelmed by the sheer amount of marble carving, I realise I’ve actually been here before! My previous six-day trip to Rajasthan was so packed I had forgotten about this stop. There is constant pilgrimage to this very active temple, in the morning it is open only to pilgrims, and this afternoon it is busy with tour groups, including many westerners. But on our way out, we visit the ‘old temple’ in the complex, and there is ceremony happening there too, with not a tourist in site. The bevy of pilgrims who emerge after the ceremony are happy to be videoed and insist we join in their group photos. God these people are friendly!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruU08vHyIip1tgNJ3L3F0JHgi0NVYVsyTMnP5WLqPiGf5fh7TmfvgrQGlCl62k6vLqKqcuzlJtZxY_chRlPi3S_B1LMmVgO_c4gibMA01Uh6nPPOiSIs-w38u2MmLnWeB-aLzuS34tgdJ/s1600/DSC04828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruU08vHyIip1tgNJ3L3F0JHgi0NVYVsyTMnP5WLqPiGf5fh7TmfvgrQGlCl62k6vLqKqcuzlJtZxY_chRlPi3S_B1LMmVgO_c4gibMA01Uh6nPPOiSIs-w38u2MmLnWeB-aLzuS34tgdJ/s400/DSC04828.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris in Jain temple - like marble wedding cake</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3V2seSccRqNK8F2E9dctxf1nkh66oGMFTjH7hoA1v7oYegCifVAY6xK0k6S9ZzgrGCoKjYqCoiPlSAsHKXB0NEu7cJl8-NVDNCtO5zhAoQiuV5ZeYzYZlB0UFDjH-P9u9O-McTnMpLmS/s1600/DSC04878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3V2seSccRqNK8F2E9dctxf1nkh66oGMFTjH7hoA1v7oYegCifVAY6xK0k6S9ZzgrGCoKjYqCoiPlSAsHKXB0NEu7cJl8-NVDNCtO5zhAoQiuV5ZeYzYZlB0UFDjH-P9u9O-McTnMpLmS/s400/DSC04878.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly pilgrims at Ranakpur</td></tr>
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<br />
Kumbhalgarh Fort is extolled by LP as ‘fantastic and remote’, but it is bustling with Indian family groups, and the whole area is in a state of development of large hotels and resorts. Tara explains that it is very popular with middle-class Gujarati families and businessmen, as it is not far away and they can drink alcohol - hadn’t realised that Gujarat is a ‘dry’ state. I love to see that these historical sites are so popular with indigenous tourists, but at the ticket box it’s clear why - entry is 40RP (80c) for locals, 600RP ($12) for foreigners.<br />
<br />
At the Fort, I am in trouble - Chris does not appreciate the steep climb to the top. It’s mostly pretty rustic, and is certainly atmospheric with some great vantage points for views over the countryside, and has a fascinating history, although there is not much on-site information. There are dozens of temples, dating from 2nd C BC, in the Fort enclosure (the external wall of which is exceeded in length only by the Great Wall of China), but just a few are visible in the immediate grounds. Walking to the top and back again, we are constantly accosted by tourist seeking selfies. While it feels friendly to accede, I finally have to say no, it’s just too much! This would be a nice place to visit early in the morning, with time to spare for exploration.<br />
<br />
In Udaipur at last, right on sunset, and it’s the usual gridlock in the old city. Don’t worry, we tell Tara, we’ll walk from here - but even that is a challenge with our wheelie bags!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnYI-YMS9WEmOIddZLBxP7wJX7CFapTUmikjqzvXJmcqFTNn9L_69uIGwTTgKbWGLJ-hLwOJCY9yRx_BkDaKEWvpNWoxCxP-UGVlDUYlEbLkdSjeV0IRsGFWz3I6dguc3RBXiiWuA4XXZ/s1600/DSC04895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnYI-YMS9WEmOIddZLBxP7wJX7CFapTUmikjqzvXJmcqFTNn9L_69uIGwTTgKbWGLJ-hLwOJCY9yRx_BkDaKEWvpNWoxCxP-UGVlDUYlEbLkdSjeV0IRsGFWz3I6dguc3RBXiiWuA4XXZ/s400/DSC04895.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain scenery </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijF4IVTER4P6KJEv7wJhtn_wCB9iTDEUCH593312pHMrU9M7mTzauMeVhjDkyFWR8F9TvH5Nr6xbDQPjvAbAtjvnA4j0GEM99eFBJaKcad10_gE1dCkwGsI0ql8Caab4ZXh-O4WDTBIAtQ/s1600/DSC04910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijF4IVTER4P6KJEv7wJhtn_wCB9iTDEUCH593312pHMrU9M7mTzauMeVhjDkyFWR8F9TvH5Nr6xbDQPjvAbAtjvnA4j0GEM99eFBJaKcad10_gE1dCkwGsI0ql8Caab4ZXh-O4WDTBIAtQ/s400/DSC04910.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Kumbahalgarh</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-70788399540521815202018-12-15T16:44:00.002+11:002018-12-15T18:12:04.871+11:00Chandelao and Jodhpur, weddings and animals<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>See the whole<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/belindaallen/albums/72157704414448995" target="_blank"> Photo gallery</a> here.</i><br />
I have reluctantly given up on the idea of bus transport, so it is another car to Chandelao - the smallest village yet - where another old fort, Chandelao Garh, is refurbished for accommodation. There is no AC in the van, and what looks like a 1.5 hr drive is actually 3 hours, an experience that’s becoming familiar. Again the driver doesn’t trust Google maps, but prefers to rely on directions from locals - usually (but not always) a safer bet. Bumpy road, minimal signage - just as we think we are lost, we are there. The ‘deluxe’ and ‘super-deluxe’ rooms turn out to be actually a bit crusty, and ours is a bit lacking in furnishing - no desk, sofa, bedside table, clothes hangers or towels. But it is spacious with hand-painted decoration and woodblock prints, and is tolerably close to the wifi spot. We ask for some of those extra items, and all is good.</div>
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We haven’t planned to go out, but there is some VERY loud music emanating from the nearby village, so Chris is out hunting for dancers to star in his movies. Jackpot: the nearby house that is broadcasting the music is populated by dancing girls who beckon us inside - it seems that they are are practising for an upcoming wedding. They are very happy to be videoed by Chris, and urge me to join them, but after the Bagar experience I am happy to play demure today, as befits my mature status.<br />
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Dinner, which was planned to be under the stars on the terrace is moved to the subterranean dining room - apparently there are too many guests. It’s a nice room, but I’m a bit sad not to be eating outside - it’s a beautiful evening. In spite of the buffet style, the food is very good - fresh, homestyle curries - if a little lacking in chilli. The English couple next to us say - Yes, it’s quite nice, glad it’s not any spicier - so that is what they have to cater for!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92yiZRPCaRXWhty16piEC3dpltxv783SeJAOcrV71UFXFI6Vy226a6yGSZKiIeCgID8YrDN2FslKBO8FqDax3UWAApIlED2ljfkotjbNWY5aBP7v3cMD1bLe_NtrU6d9zTe1PXdpOloNk/s1600/DSC03799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92yiZRPCaRXWhty16piEC3dpltxv783SeJAOcrV71UFXFI6Vy226a6yGSZKiIeCgID8YrDN2FslKBO8FqDax3UWAApIlED2ljfkotjbNWY5aBP7v3cMD1bLe_NtrU6d9zTe1PXdpOloNk/s400/DSC03799.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunder Rang craft ladies</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DwsmDexo8s-G8zVv9sgVFpAJ3frZwid9eaj4ie879K9tqkxnVXpW7e4mdNJg8dCdUZo5mJPF4kTVV4nBtOvqGdq7WW-iZ3-Kxa_23WeGZRFbxlCrym-TrCg6SENtYVEyCmPUjEJOdQmA/s1600/DSC03838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DwsmDexo8s-G8zVv9sgVFpAJ3frZwid9eaj4ie879K9tqkxnVXpW7e4mdNJg8dCdUZo5mJPF4kTVV4nBtOvqGdq7WW-iZ3-Kxa_23WeGZRFbxlCrym-TrCg6SENtYVEyCmPUjEJOdQmA/s400/DSC03838.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Chandelao girl - she chased me to be in my photo!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2IYHTnasEezUtZNnHCDEZ2NwP71UxzjRiL_ylQYNxH54qY9IZiIETwvrMmjpIe3bGOgRszp9qp24ju3EnUjIGYea3nOOnlcHSIs_ehgcOBSMldan6K4NroLn0VNTE7QLz5mtUGzqJNvx/s1600/DSC03863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2IYHTnasEezUtZNnHCDEZ2NwP71UxzjRiL_ylQYNxH54qY9IZiIETwvrMmjpIe3bGOgRszp9qp24ju3EnUjIGYea3nOOnlcHSIs_ehgcOBSMldan6K4NroLn0VNTE7QLz5mtUGzqJNvx/s400/DSC03863.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Chandelao parrots by the pool</td></tr>
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The plan is to chill out here, so we have no outings planned, although we have heard that there may be more wedding dancing tonight. We walk in the village, I catch up on journal and photos, we read and nap and have a swim in the pool, where there is a bare tree full of green parrots - gorgeous. I also wander over to Sunder Rang, a women’s art collective next door, which is affiliated with Chandelao Garh - I settle on a khurta with a quirky bird print and a colourful string of red stuffed birds for a xmas decoration.<br />
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I’m beginning to like the ramshackle nature of this quirky place, and love the feeling that we are contributing to the maintenance of a heritage building that may otherwise crumble, as so many others have. And we are able to see a village community that without tourist facilities would otherwise be inaccessible to us. Tonight we take drinks to the (ramshackle) terrace, which has (quirky) glass-topped tables with tree root bases. Dinner again underground, as another large group (cyclists!) has arrived. It’s good to see that this place is thriving, at least in the cooler months.<br />
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After dinner we follow the sound of music to the wedding house, which is behind the one we visited earlier. The music is loud, but it’s a small and intimate family party, and while they are happy to see us, we feel that we are intruding and don’t stay long. No dancing tonight.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3mUks3AOdRbbjYAN6G8yN77JN5STpyISKFmKDP-pendtGlOG01xWhJ_QlV5cvSbE2hpnIfUJzyasfE5yYFELuhGES1MFnO9AK5ugbMLpFiK2KqSTSHTrZBOutvC6pU3FYF_uqQppxkmt/s1600/DSC03797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3mUks3AOdRbbjYAN6G8yN77JN5STpyISKFmKDP-pendtGlOG01xWhJ_QlV5cvSbE2hpnIfUJzyasfE5yYFELuhGES1MFnO9AK5ugbMLpFiK2KqSTSHTrZBOutvC6pU3FYF_uqQppxkmt/s400/DSC03797.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our room, opening on to the lower terrace</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRDA3u5hdd5yYz-Ehp1K7jyP-Vs6e8jQSoIfnWrksYKM3xaFRX1yYkY_VyXEP6EuUgCkIXUZWN3naift7pB6MxiXsigFiIaHaeZcjT69xr8CVdmtrBFxEiAt9fUm-LYvtcJZB82PeUOMJs/s1600/DSC03867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRDA3u5hdd5yYz-Ehp1K7jyP-Vs6e8jQSoIfnWrksYKM3xaFRX1yYkY_VyXEP6EuUgCkIXUZWN3naift7pB6MxiXsigFiIaHaeZcjT69xr8CVdmtrBFxEiAt9fUm-LYvtcJZB82PeUOMJs/s400/DSC03867.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ramshackle upper terrace - with Kingfisher beer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX5dixx4TJWfBEy0tPcJrinkyTDynZC7uzLImK28LJ8oPcvuamsnVJVdHofY4HgcDWo5JXm_fes9iKlqOyFZsy7pWtloDVMkb5rRnlyQBavbOZu_6Tr9pQrCq_iUCFyzsFkubr_kQ44Wil/s1600/DSC03778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX5dixx4TJWfBEy0tPcJrinkyTDynZC7uzLImK28LJ8oPcvuamsnVJVdHofY4HgcDWo5JXm_fes9iKlqOyFZsy7pWtloDVMkb5rRnlyQBavbOZu_6Tr9pQrCq_iUCFyzsFkubr_kQ44Wil/s400/DSC03778.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chandelao Garh main building</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiViAQigQ9Pk1EFV5WYZvHi5cxQwz-Gqnt-QPfU3aFbv1S_AkQY-3DIlywhtiK0aB2uYNGCSY6jpzxyrd13zJrQsXKRhhS3fXJk8yf44GpWwPj28RSlUEe1_tRKceH9cMyQZo8ABr8gWEq/s1600/DSC03870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiViAQigQ9Pk1EFV5WYZvHi5cxQwz-Gqnt-QPfU3aFbv1S_AkQY-3DIlywhtiK0aB2uYNGCSY6jpzxyrd13zJrQsXKRhhS3fXJk8yf44GpWwPj28RSlUEe1_tRKceH9cMyQZo8ABr8gWEq/s400/DSC03870.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chandelao village, sunset</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Jodhpur</h3>
A car is ordered, the bill is paid, and we make the short one-hour hop to Jodhpur, the Blue City. We have to take a tuktuk to our guest house in Navkichoya, deep in the old city, but just a five minute walk to the Fateh Pol gate of Mehrangarh Fort. This afternoon we rest again, Chris still feeling unwell, and just take a short local walk at dusk. Lovely crumbling, or restored and painted, old houses. The blue everywhere (and green, mauve, orange). And everywhere the rubbish - sadly, it stinks. Dinner is at the rooftop restaurant of our guest house - lovely outlook (above the street smell), food just ok.<br />
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We arrange an early morning Blue City walk with Avi, our guest house host (deputy manager?). It is cool and lovely and at least some of the rubbish is being cleared. Avi has close connections to the neighbourhood and is involved in a small private charity to assist the community. So it is not surprising that his tour has a social justice tinge. He speaks disgustedly of local public servants and politicians who are happy to take a salary and do nothing, and he shows us the crumbling ruin of the local public school where, he claims, teachers are paid to teach, but no teaching happens and no-one ever checks. ‘You should be in politics’, I say. 'Then I would have to become a politician!’, says Avi. He shows us and talks of the heritage and history and community of the neighbourhood, and we don’t go near any markets or shops or the commercial centre of the city. This would not please everyone, but I like it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3BJUbQD1lD2w3M2yrY6b3lx8jbFiqwrBh3NbH7G0rfb1z4-25PTtXAWc0_YpPeM08v9HQwuWXYCQs44U7yMlRMA9-dU0rHGH79R2OMbsIPc00okQTRrsTnwt3XygUZFPP5Hof5OxPhX0k/s1600/DSC03935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3BJUbQD1lD2w3M2yrY6b3lx8jbFiqwrBh3NbH7G0rfb1z4-25PTtXAWc0_YpPeM08v9HQwuWXYCQs44U7yMlRMA9-dU0rHGH79R2OMbsIPc00okQTRrsTnwt3XygUZFPP5Hof5OxPhX0k/s400/DSC03935.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jodhpur rubbish</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUlJyyKNgmysPq3YXq7H7EzYvl1OUDJa0LIxT8te5p8PFa5FPi-r6WRukh69tmv1mVJ7GvvkSkxzw7YgK_R-4XAsqpPEr5SAmTR1ebr048GaNxQ61BnTj-YaFerbR3Jm9AvrSb_VYoZlTs/s1600/DSC03978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUlJyyKNgmysPq3YXq7H7EzYvl1OUDJa0LIxT8te5p8PFa5FPi-r6WRukh69tmv1mVJ7GvvkSkxzw7YgK_R-4XAsqpPEr5SAmTR1ebr048GaNxQ61BnTj-YaFerbR3Jm9AvrSb_VYoZlTs/s400/DSC03978.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mehrangarh Fort at dawn, from our room </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYGGv8Pc8izNE_gbx6fFapJ6JTd9kby8-y0LEPsBpRoWBZogO04-xRymbonkVDpvRzF-ZVwjqDJFfP55OoI1MhkxIC7X1z7RfTnl3DJCGVbZCxkqGaQ3WD3RkcK2qJ9N2qG_5rTVOqPWZ/s1600/DSC04108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYGGv8Pc8izNE_gbx6fFapJ6JTd9kby8-y0LEPsBpRoWBZogO04-xRymbonkVDpvRzF-ZVwjqDJFfP55OoI1MhkxIC7X1z7RfTnl3DJCGVbZCxkqGaQ3WD3RkcK2qJ9N2qG_5rTVOqPWZ/s400/DSC04108.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue blue city</td></tr>
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<div>
Siesta during the warm afternoon, then a twilight shopping trip. The market area is the usual mad maze, so I pinpoint a couple of shops and rely on Google Maps - surprisingly accurate in this labyrinth. Sambhali is a charity craft collective for textile-based goods, but it turns out to be tiny with a modest collection of wares, I buy only a rather overpriced printed cotton scarf. The next, Maharani Art Exporters, a large fabric and craft emporium is the opposite extreme - floor after floor of goods stuffed to the ceiling, a dozen enthusiastic salesmen and few customers. I am overwhelmed and don’t hang around, especially as I don’t really have a clear idea what I’m looking for. Blingy <a href="https://thesethingscalledwords.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/il_570xn-247709821.jpg" target="_blank">Rajasthani embroidery</a> with velvet, beads, mirrors and sequins, made up into patchwork pieces is prevalent and popular, but I find it a bit kitsch. My taste runs more to humble wood block prints. </div>
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Walking home, away from the tourist area I see a small kitchenware shop with odd looking implements of wood and stone and terracotta. I could hang around here for a while! But have promised Chris I will be back for cocktail hour so quickly grab a small grinding stone - 70rp ($1.40!) - now that’s my kind of souvenir. Hurrying on, my way is blocked by a wedding parade, so I stop and climb up for a better view. The groom on a white horse is weighed down with garlands and looks weary as his celebrants cavort around him, handing out sweets. The horse doesn't look too thrilled either. And this is just the beginning of the ceremonies! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNfBDcvjs69tAm3-dHdLWHH5DvPiDwSiptjeDN5_4STcfiuZ0CvtXluuNXLJ3jV5AwVDxCGZfxMqfsl9aP_avugLJdv9LrnvWQXfvz1P14vY5GZsdgagKMOy623nQodwX8dA5xHHOkzH5-/s1600/DSC04213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNfBDcvjs69tAm3-dHdLWHH5DvPiDwSiptjeDN5_4STcfiuZ0CvtXluuNXLJ3jV5AwVDxCGZfxMqfsl9aP_avugLJdv9LrnvWQXfvz1P14vY5GZsdgagKMOy623nQodwX8dA5xHHOkzH5-/s400/DSC04213.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitchenware shop</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5DLmZ8cFXtgKJyOaFoE8MD1vHiQ1A0AZsF5z0r64bosFZRb2TPwbyPFE7X7hA5N8aom7HyHRt55N9B4rwAqq-APOWwPef4uQLgFPc5n-MfZl2w9GrWAQesawjZPOvxv8Fru9JvNUOk_U/s1600/DSC04223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5DLmZ8cFXtgKJyOaFoE8MD1vHiQ1A0AZsF5z0r64bosFZRb2TPwbyPFE7X7hA5N8aom7HyHRt55N9B4rwAqq-APOWwPef4uQLgFPc5n-MfZl2w9GrWAQesawjZPOvxv8Fru9JvNUOk_U/s400/DSC04223.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Twilight in the old city</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQzo_78gK6pswFeRmbXEUsvbDf5pFTw2-HIDWcYfAtLDopobOmIF40yRgxy112Jy64DZbk_2SiagUro544FHX111hRlPp1CUMTf7Bn-ERxRTRYjcISqJmsWD-UEmM6tDeK5Bw6at_wD2D/s1600/DSC04236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQzo_78gK6pswFeRmbXEUsvbDf5pFTw2-HIDWcYfAtLDopobOmIF40yRgxy112Jy64DZbk_2SiagUro544FHX111hRlPp1CUMTf7Bn-ERxRTRYjcISqJmsWD-UEmM6tDeK5Bw6at_wD2D/s400/DSC04236.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Street food wallahs, Jodhpur</td></tr>
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<div>
We have been told that today is the beginning of ‘auspicious wedding season’, as advised by astrologers, and we may see a few more weddings. So when I get home, after a couple of sunset cocktails, we are out wedding-hunting. Heading back towards the old city centre, we see plenty of people hurtling about in their finery, but fail to spot an epicentre of celebration. Until - jackpot - another procession: brass band, drummers, dancing family, friends and well-wishers and finally, the patient groom, laden with marigold wreaths, on his patient white horse. We follow for a while, but finally get too hungry and head back to dinner at Jeemrana veg restaurant, close to our guest house. The rooftop terrace is gorgeous, we order two curries which somehow both turn out to be creamy veg dishes (always difficult to get enough variety when just two of us) and some beer. Then bingo! another wedding procession passes by and we have a bird’s eye view this time.</div>
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Roll home, stuffed again, and lying in bed hear drumming getting louder and louder - we dress again and go back down just in time to see yet another groom and procession passing the door of the guesthouse, squeezing along the tiniest laneway! Yes, it’s been a big wedding night.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedding parade 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcX6HlvdcT1TDcJKzdwQZr35UrmYSAhWSP-RajTmooLqyVgCCOZrPJP3XIuKgE1GT0lzC14-OPHuIhiFCgCA_90zab65RMyf6D386DAM4brWnRAGJKxGslu4Ixnola_i9nhHPSMA-YJ5vZ/s1600/DSC04272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcX6HlvdcT1TDcJKzdwQZr35UrmYSAhWSP-RajTmooLqyVgCCOZrPJP3XIuKgE1GT0lzC14-OPHuIhiFCgCA_90zab65RMyf6D386DAM4brWnRAGJKxGslu4Ixnola_i9nhHPSMA-YJ5vZ/s400/DSC04272.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedding parade 2</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiORc40V3UgK_GURYVMSEvNLpAiGFFRnJ9PxjHPVdzg7e2JJyIsVicfg0L_N-HTB5e3R-nl89QmdrP08oP4pCPMq5lxjYBNOdjGjEkAOQY0JDNgJzv_LC6tVKeU_8ozXH7c4Kd7HI_Qbc-M/s1600/DSC04287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiORc40V3UgK_GURYVMSEvNLpAiGFFRnJ9PxjHPVdzg7e2JJyIsVicfg0L_N-HTB5e3R-nl89QmdrP08oP4pCPMq5lxjYBNOdjGjEkAOQY0JDNgJzv_LC6tVKeU_8ozXH7c4Kd7HI_Qbc-M/s400/DSC04287.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedding parade 3</td></tr>
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Our last stop in Jodhpur, that we have been gazing upon from our room for the last two days, is Mehrangarh Fort. We get there early after checking out, and already tour groups are pouring in, but it’s a nice time to be here in the cool morning. It’s one of the most impressive forts in Rajasthan, a combination of atmospheric architecture and informative, historical museum and gallery. While I usually forgo the option of an audio tour, in this case it is included in the ticket, and is a very worthwhile guide to the place and its history. We have allowed 2 and a half hours, and it is barely long enough. The only disappointment is the number of the lovely miniature paintings currently out on loan to a travelling exhibition in the US - they are replaced by prints, some of which are good quality, but others rather poor. </div>
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Finally we head back to the guest house for our drive to Ghanerao, another heritage stay in a village for which we have great expectations (recommended by our friends Martin and Deborah). It's another one of those drives that looks as if it should take less than two hours, but takes well over three, as the main inter-town routes change to potholed village throughways. It’s a nice idea that with a private driver we could ask him to take detours for a more scenic route, but … it’s impossible to tell the state of the roads from the map, and really we don’t want to spend even more time driving! We stop for lunch on the way at a basic ‘<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhaba" target="_blank">dhaba</a>’ - open-air truck-stop. Luckily our driver is happy to order for us, as they seem quite nonplussed by our presence. We get some dal, a veg curry, and roti, and it’s so delicious - the spiciest food we have had so far. We share between the three of us, and the cost is less than $5, which I’m sure includes the ‘tourist’ surcharge.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDjziiDMbOw4k7Nu_BmvdcemE2Agkg74fXd0RaBvyOl3IW5_KV406PuKndNoN9EGaIuHolmSJncKEkt1ksViKZOYDKZSKdkaUvesk3QdAOkgXTmcBQqGbOVbUWaB1d6JqOrXvWjOva-nj7/s1600/DSC04435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDjziiDMbOw4k7Nu_BmvdcemE2Agkg74fXd0RaBvyOl3IW5_KV406PuKndNoN9EGaIuHolmSJncKEkt1ksViKZOYDKZSKdkaUvesk3QdAOkgXTmcBQqGbOVbUWaB1d6JqOrXvWjOva-nj7/s400/DSC04435.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Beautiful jaali at Mehrangarh Fort</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNzs_ExY6guh_UqDD4nwvzcA1-yoErvlN1BezMsLlOW16qF7zQFI1ljA4bfiDRc-us585DNk6vzj0dgjM0MT2oogVLNalHGjtqblXvtMjC5Yl2I7lr4WKopFdbxhxZ82C3pv2Gq08sbf0/s1600/DSC04444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNzs_ExY6guh_UqDD4nwvzcA1-yoErvlN1BezMsLlOW16qF7zQFI1ljA4bfiDRc-us585DNk6vzj0dgjM0MT2oogVLNalHGjtqblXvtMjC5Yl2I7lr4WKopFdbxhxZ82C3pv2Gq08sbf0/s400/DSC04444.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glam tourists at Mehrangarh</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
ANIMALS</h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dog and pup in rubbish, Jodhpur</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
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Cows, dogs, monkeys, squirrels - all of these roam wild, and are communally cared for (yes, we even saw squirrels being fed!). An iconic and wonderfully metaphoric image that I brought home from my first visit to India is that of a sacred cow lying in a rubbish heap: they are still there. Today in Jodhpur I found a dog and her pup sleeping in rubbish.<br />
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Asking one of our drivers, it was good to hear how the cows are communally fed and milked and the proceeds used to support them. But it’s hard to see the point of the other animals who are messy, and a pest, and may be diseased, yet are fed and encouraged to breed.<br />
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Hinduism in it’s purest form is vegetarian and deplores the killing or mistreatment of animals - after all they are reincarnated souls - so animals are treated as sacred and cared for*. However, sacred cows may be abandoned when past their productive life and certainly we see many in poor condition, and dogs that appear to be malnourished and neglected. While it seems so perverse, is it any more crazy than western culture’s conflicted treatment of animals for consumption vs animals as pets?<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">*Nazim, our Delhi driver, tells us he is vegetarian because he loves vegetarian food. And so is his family. And also, by the way, the Bhagavad Gita says you will go to hell if you eat meat, so you should stop now! </span></i></div>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-66706079813493565832018-12-13T16:16:00.001+11:002018-12-15T18:11:49.508+11:00Jaipur - forts and food<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>See the whole<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/belindaallen/albums/72157704414448995" target="_blank"> Photo gallery</a> here.</i><br />
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We pick up drivers as we go, and they are a mixed bag. There is the good of supporting local drivers, but many of them have poor English. And they don’t necessarily know the local area well from a tourist point of view. Our driver today is the same one we had for our Shekhawati tour yesterday; he was rather taciturn, but a good driver, and the car has AC - important on these dusty roads, as Chris still has the cough he picked up in smoggy Delhi. When we arrive in Jaipur I have to direct him to the hotel using Google maps on my phone. So few drivers seem to use GPS, rather stopping as we near the destination to ask local bystanders for directions.</div>
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I have mapped a convenient shopping walk near to our hotel, and plan to do this while Chris rests. But he decides to come with me, and as this new city area is not so interesting for a non-shopper, we go into the old city instead. Starting at New Gate, we are on a road of local shops - textbooks and spectacles - but we are encouraged to venture into the back streets for the ‘silver market’. Bad idea - we are soon completely lost in tiny alleyways infested with loud, hooting and fast-travelling motorcycles, and it’s no fun being a pedestrian. Heading back to the main road, we try to spot the Pink City central landmark - the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawa_Mahal" target="_blank">Hawa Mahal</a>. But where is it? All is chaos. The large Badi Chopar square is a dug-up construction zone surrounded by tall hoardings, and the traffic is funnelled into one lane surrounding it, almost on top of the sidewalk shops and stalls. Turns out they are constructing the final stations of stage 1 of the new <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaipur_Metro" target="_blank">Metro project</a>. Jaipur traffic is crazy at the best of times, and if any city needs a metro system it is Jaipur, but meanwhile - madness. Finally the familiar honeycomb of Hawa Mahal looms, we take a couple of quick photos, and get out of the chaos as quickly as we can.<br />
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I do manage a quick shop at the large <a href="https://www.anokhi.com/">Anokhi</a> outlet here (some of my friends will know it’s one of my favourite shops in India), and we find an ‘English wine shop’ to buy a bottle of local wine to drink on our hotel room balcony, looking out on the hotels and tuk tuks across the street. It’s ok, but at $22 for the cheapest bottle, it’s hardly a bargain (good local whisky can be had for $12). At dinner in the rooftop Peacock restaurant we have Afghan tandoori chicken as respite from our recent vegetarian diet, it is delicious!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musicians at the Peacock Restaurant (rooftop of Pearl Palace Hotel)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jaipur</td></tr>
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Only one day in Jaipur, so we ignore the great plans expounded to us by all the tuktuk drivers who would wish to spend the day escorting us to dozens of locations. First - <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jantar_Mantar,_Jaipur" target="_blank">Jantar Mantar</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/City_Palace,_Jaipur" target="_blank">City Palace</a>, and early in the morning it’s a quiet and relaxing drive to the old city, as shops are all closed.<br />
Jantar Mantar, a garden full of amazing mathematical/astronomical instruments built in the early 18th C by a Rajput ruler, looks like a Bauhaus playground. It’s busy with mostly Indian tourists, but keeps us entertained for a couple of hours.<br />
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City Palace next-door looks like a film set, according to Chris, as if it’s constructed from plywood. We know it’s not, but this comment colours my perception, as do the numerous officious security guards checking tickets, are we walking in the right direction, forbidding photos, etc. Our favourite place - the large reception hall (Diwan-i-Am) is lined with images and fascinating stories of the Maharajahs (no photos!). We decide to forgo the (very pricy) tour of the Royal Apartments, still occupied by the erstwhile Maharaja's family and head to the Amber Fort, 11km north of the city.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bauhaus sculpture garden at Jantar Mantar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">City Palace, Jaipur - looking like a film set</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM0FszbV0tCzbzB23QEqaGqxTi_GwZp8G6RFAoQAyAImeezwCuRtqtptqcOvtsSjInNAgjx75-kpLaepjaY5f1p34hBeMGneyuNEl5qEcdsWrRMi9H7c0nCuSHtyqTcqF072DxO45B6VeV/s1600/DSC03441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM0FszbV0tCzbzB23QEqaGqxTi_GwZp8G6RFAoQAyAImeezwCuRtqtptqcOvtsSjInNAgjx75-kpLaepjaY5f1p34hBeMGneyuNEl5qEcdsWrRMi9H7c0nCuSHtyqTcqF072DxO45B6VeV/s400/DSC03441.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely Peacock Gate and lovely tourist at City Palace</td></tr>
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The tuktuk drive out is fine, and we brave the walk up rather than wimp out with a jeep ride. I love this place, such a contrast to the Palace! Huge, solid, crumbling, rambling, with little signage, and is restored enough to be safe (by Indian standards!) but still quite crusty and very atmospheric in spite of hordes of visitors. It’s lovely to make your way to a remote pavilion, and spot over there a courtyard you haven’t seen, and like a treasure hunt find your way there. And there are the mosaics, the marble jaali (carved lattice screens) ... We stay until the sun is setting, then find another tuktuk to go home. The price seems to have gone up … and we can see why - the traffic through the old city is the worst yet!<br />
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Back at the hotel, we brave a 5-minute walk to the nearest Wine shop for some beer. ‘You just have to cross the main road and there it is’, we are told. Yes, well ... see <a href="http://belinda-ann.blogspot.com/2018/12/shekhawati.html" target="">story on DRIVING</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Labyrinthine Amber Fort</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgBRCD8smiG1G5i3DZmoVEsG_soMjWwZi1blxHAvOz8lzsKOYUmAjBHoxV1ViCiNExsv9FPAsKoQObSZdETVYbEm1ieO3PySBWpMdYQg1oJFRg-OAMvMFiD92L73r_ZRh-iXRb6H56YBK/s1600/DSC03488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgBRCD8smiG1G5i3DZmoVEsG_soMjWwZi1blxHAvOz8lzsKOYUmAjBHoxV1ViCiNExsv9FPAsKoQObSZdETVYbEm1ieO3PySBWpMdYQg1oJFRg-OAMvMFiD92L73r_ZRh-iXRb6H56YBK/s400/DSC03488.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorgeous marble jaali</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Away from it all in Kharwa</h3>
Today we drive to Kharwa Fort - we have decided on another out-of-the-way stay rather than brave the famous camel fair at Pushkar. We will go via Kishangarh so that we can check out the lovely old hotel at the Phool Mahal Palace; encouraged by some Tripadvisor reviews, we plan to have lunch there before traveling south to the Kharwa Fort Homestay. We have become aware already that there are looming elections in Rajasthan, political rallies are numerous, and here is one on our way into Kishangarh. There is no traffic management for these large rallies, and the normally difficult roads become practically impassable. Many side street detours, and much loud horn blowing later, and we reach the Phool Mahal Palace. It is deserted, no-one even at reception. Finally the hotel manager appears, and looks nonplussed - Lunch? I’m sorry you would have to book and order ahead … Perhaps - a cup of coffee, and a sandwich? We gratefully accept, and he hurries off.<br />
We wander round and explore the place, lovely setting and dining room - but it looks as if there are few if any visitors so the kitchen/dining area is not in action. After 30 minutes - instant coffee, and a grilled cucumber sandwich. It is not the guided tour of the palace that I had dreamed of, but we won’t starve!<br />
Leaving Kishangarh, the traffic is even worse. It becomes obvious why larger vehicles take precedence - if not: gridlock. We finally reach Kharwa Fort mid-afternoon, and our very patient driver gets a tip for the Kishangarh hassle. Kharwa is a small village, quite close to the main road from Ajmer, and the industrial outskirts of Ajmer are creeping closer to this tiny rural place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQETv001-5_86AjY_zL1fhFYU6xi4LiFTOjEeaSeZ_oX_8RPNKth11GLTIUAqJ-vZNW6Zc9jm3WaTtNVxcaV5qBtopvfgIpIRb8IfnTNHK60GQp3MAIdP49AABgsgAxJgaTs03GFwPn89D/s1600/DSC03597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQETv001-5_86AjY_zL1fhFYU6xi4LiFTOjEeaSeZ_oX_8RPNKth11GLTIUAqJ-vZNW6Zc9jm3WaTtNVxcaV5qBtopvfgIpIRb8IfnTNHK60GQp3MAIdP49AABgsgAxJgaTs03GFwPn89D/s400/DSC03597.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for cucumber sandwich at Phool Mahal, Kishangarh</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kharwa Fort</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqsyPMCAAedSuthcRle0e5bvaBXh0xrT786WF6agJ-nMe0pS5ScwHSz_B62egiE4fzV0stbFTMFrCQdwD9UYSEu029wG3DJdBiuGpV5w0YyDeEi-6cK8PQCRjq1e4LVn6LZiJJQu9sY3K/s1600/DSC03604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqsyPMCAAedSuthcRle0e5bvaBXh0xrT786WF6agJ-nMe0pS5ScwHSz_B62egiE4fzV0stbFTMFrCQdwD9UYSEu029wG3DJdBiuGpV5w0YyDeEi-6cK8PQCRjq1e4LVn6LZiJJQu9sY3K/s400/DSC03604.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our gorgeous room at Kharwa Fort Homestay</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQETv001-5_86AjY_zL1fhFYU6xi4LiFTOjEeaSeZ_oX_8RPNKth11GLTIUAqJ-vZNW6Zc9jm3WaTtNVxcaV5qBtopvfgIpIRb8IfnTNHK60GQp3MAIdP49AABgsgAxJgaTs03GFwPn89D/s1600/DSC03597.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><br />
Wow! Kharwa Fort is interesting! It has been in the same family for five centuries - 18 generations, now divvied up into the private quarters of five brothers, and their families. Jyoti, our hostess, is married to one of the brothers, Shyam, and her sister and daughter are also visiting. It’s a real homestay - there is just one (enormous) guest room, with a temple behind where we can hear the singing and drumming of ceremony. We are invited to spend time with the family, taken to their farm, a short walk away, where villagers cultivate the fields as if nothing has changed in 500 years. We drink masala chai with sweet biscuits, and chat. They are an old aristocratic family with well-educated daughters who have professional city lives, and have no clear idea of how the ancient heritage will be managed into the future.<br />
<br />
Later we share a drink (whisky and water) on the terrace with the old bloke. He is a big gruff fellow with giant Rajasthani moustache ,and seems to feel out of place in the contemporary world, with his modern women. I had expected an extensive apartment with a manservant and cook, but their quarters are modest and it is Jyoti in the kitchen. Quite a large space is sacrificed for the homestay. Dinner is home cooked non-veg thali, and is delicious. And for breakfast - anda bhurji (spicy scrambled eggs - my new favourite) with paratha and home-made pickles.<br />
In the morning we explore the small village. The turbans here are the largest so far! Once again we are the only tourists and the centre of attention. It’s quite entertaining, at least for a short while, being the entertainment.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOnYGJqYb_qGkunGcg3mP3Ys9QbAfg8CKfnkCAyVL-1IJAQV_l6pzVm2h7_bvPRkeoCYyi_uoKO7MUSdSLFbgboai9WWQZg3ZI0ZM0HiuY48JwMVA9p-6YZqfbbvdNh2u7q5GDVZHZ9QFJ/s1600/DSC03704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOnYGJqYb_qGkunGcg3mP3Ys9QbAfg8CKfnkCAyVL-1IJAQV_l6pzVm2h7_bvPRkeoCYyi_uoKO7MUSdSLFbgboai9WWQZg3ZI0ZM0HiuY48JwMVA9p-6YZqfbbvdNh2u7q5GDVZHZ9QFJ/s400/DSC03704.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kharwa village</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxiatFSgL7MMznJ8wqvENzwAFbfcHJ3mlu4BjeYJzEJJmEHwzAM0ZI1gajl22uQAnB0zA88MHmirhh95vcyxQ8Gu1y_USyXzDzKBN8W1TgJrqSsRCnsNveaiCgG5LQyTRSw6m6jSEqwW2d/s1600/DSC03722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxiatFSgL7MMznJ8wqvENzwAFbfcHJ3mlu4BjeYJzEJJmEHwzAM0ZI1gajl22uQAnB0zA88MHmirhh95vcyxQ8Gu1y_USyXzDzKBN8W1TgJrqSsRCnsNveaiCgG5LQyTRSw6m6jSEqwW2d/s400/DSC03722.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris with friends - Kharwa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_P3KFoT4-mLkbKfLZIgGKUqhitR-DCo8rG-EtZeIUHDLN-0gJ1qR5s-D-pMZTw1RcU5E0uUVCiTWzW7tr5lHFbeDjTeJ_AJ9VjIvX08tUvhQI9fmu6Z2Zvf3mRyEufcTbYUBbGXYnuLR/s1600/DSC03746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_P3KFoT4-mLkbKfLZIgGKUqhitR-DCo8rG-EtZeIUHDLN-0gJ1qR5s-D-pMZTw1RcU5E0uUVCiTWzW7tr5lHFbeDjTeJ_AJ9VjIvX08tUvhQI9fmu6Z2Zvf3mRyEufcTbYUBbGXYnuLR/s320/DSC03746.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old lady is blind - but insisted that we photograph her</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
FOOD</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WAZY7Y8kVz-3kJoHSmwDh1QDYEMuRkCQEpDKSl8vF6IOhJlFPBFoaN_65SALQgEcDHG6xTm9Gby2AP7N2dZD-r2YdrD3ZUj3LVZ-x4gFgt2l6tOPyK7hAGH9c2qrohUIgArf8Sd10Fj1/s1600/DSC03646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WAZY7Y8kVz-3kJoHSmwDh1QDYEMuRkCQEpDKSl8vF6IOhJlFPBFoaN_65SALQgEcDHG6xTm9Gby2AP7N2dZD-r2YdrD3ZUj3LVZ-x4gFgt2l6tOPyK7hAGH9c2qrohUIgArf8Sd10Fj1/s400/DSC03646.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kharwa breakfast - anda bhurji with paratha and curd</td></tr>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">* Disclaimer: I am a proud foodie! But almost never photograph food, too busy eating it ;)</span></i><br />
As we are largely eating in tourist guest houses and hotels, it's quite hard to get anything really spicy. Rajasthani cuisine is in any case on the mild side for India. But you can always ask for pickles on the side. People seem quite amazed when we tell them that we love spicy (hot) food, and cook it for ourselves at home. Vegetarianism is very prevalent, being intrinsic to the Hindu religion, and restaurants that do serve meat often have non-veg meals relegated to a page at the back of the menu. Some places we stay are vegetarian only, although I understand that they can procure meat dishes if requested, as well as alcohol, although that's not on the menu either.<br />
<br />
At the heritage stays, where it is a set menu for dinner, there are very tasty, fresh home-cooked meals - usually a dal and 2 or 3 veg dishes, one potato-based, sometimes a non-veg dish too, served with rice and roti. It's very difficult to fit in the dessert! While fruit platter with toast and eggs/omelettes are staples of the breakfast tables, it's definitely good to choose Indian breakfast if available. My favourite being stuffed paratha (flaky bread) with curd and pickle, but poha (savoury dish with flattened rice) and upma (savoury dish with semolina) are also delicious*. After large yummy breakfasts and in expectation of large yummy dinners, we mostly lunch on a lassi - plain sweet, mango or rosewater - the nicest we have is in Udapiur and is flavoured with cardamom.<br />
<br />
While I like to believe I am a street food aficionado, here we largely avoid it - well, we are usually walking around so well-stuffed already. And we are wary of bugs, so prevalent here. On one of our last days I slip up and buy some food at the railway station. By the next day Chris is ill, and two days later so am I :(<br />
<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">* Given the current baby boomer trend to refuse grandma and grandpa as honorifics, I decide that Chris and I will be Poha and Upma if the opportunity arises.</span></i></div>
</div>
belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0Jaipur, Rajasthan, India26.9124336 75.78727090000006726.4592396 75.141823900000063 27.3656276 76.432717900000071tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-57217492645665472342018-12-08T15:03:00.002+11:002018-12-10T18:23:59.997+11:00Shekhawati - driving and dancing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: left;">
See the whole <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/belindaallen/albums/72157704414448995" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" target="_blank">Photo gallery</a><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: 400;"> here</span></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
DRIVING </h3>
is in a miasma of dust and pollution. The roads vary from multi-laned highways to one-laned potholed backstreets, and in the 'old cities' tiny laneways that barely fit a rickshaw, let alone a car. Major routes between towns may be just one potholed lane filled with wandering cattle. But the rules remain the same - the largest vehicle rules. Horns are the main instrument of communication: 'I am here, let me through!' Indicators are rarely used, and seat belts generally not operational - it is hardly surprising that India has a poor road safety record. As a pedestrian, one is at the lower end of the pecking order, pedestrian crossings are completely ignored. The method of crossing a large road is similar to what we have found elsewhere, eg in Vietnam: wait until the traffic is mostly composed of motorcycles, then walk into the stream and let them flow around you. But some of them are so aggressive! It's not for the faint-hearted, and on a few occasions we are assisted by sympathetic locals. In the middle of all this are wallahs with handcarts, families on motorcycles (she with trailing sari and babe in arms), young children on bicycles, and a variety of pedestrians - madness!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Y1xB4NnkYPI3spSQbQcJKBzI-3NQqrDuhKv2tTRekJG7jkTnb52kjB_yJdw6BVAevq7JFQuwIH7HoQazCKfuB7zP6Fua1JDc1uSvx9YGIj9EqTV1IAQKsz4r6tGt6gcjxdQIno9Es2c3/s1600/DSC03705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Y1xB4NnkYPI3spSQbQcJKBzI-3NQqrDuhKv2tTRekJG7jkTnb52kjB_yJdw6BVAevq7JFQuwIH7HoQazCKfuB7zP6Fua1JDc1uSvx9YGIj9EqTV1IAQKsz4r6tGt6gcjxdQIno9Es2c3/s400/DSC03705.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road ...</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Delhi to Shekhawati</h3>
To save money we organise our own driver to Bagar in the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shekhawati" target="_blank">Shekhawati district</a>. He is the son of a driver/guide we met yesterday, but today he has decided on a longer backroad (Google says it is faster) so the price goes up ...<br />
Off we go, 24yo Nazim eager to tell us what a great driver he is, how much he loves driving, and that his father has warned him to 'Go slow! They are seniors!'. He doesn't go very slow, and loves to careen across 6 lanes while checking out Google maps on his phone.<br />
For the first couple of hours getting out of smoggy Delhi, through a hellish landscape of industry and construction rubble, the smoke and dust get worse. Could we please have windows closed and AC on? Oh sorry, no, that will use too much fuel, we haven't paid for that!<br />
As the journey continues, Nazim becomes more and more irritated.<br />
This is longer than he thought! The roads are bad! (it is true, but it was he who selected this route).<br />
The tolls are very expensive! (he argues with each toll collector).<br />
Why do you want to go there? There is nothing there!!<br />
Do we want to stop for lunch, he asks? No, not really (we would like this drive to be over with!).<br />
Nazim gets even more agitated. It turns out that he has had no breakfast and is starving. But we are happy for you to stop for lunch! No, I can only stop if you are also going to eat. OK! We will stop and eat!<br />
Finally, only 20 min from our destination we find a restaurant that is 'clean' enough for him. We order a couple of stuffed parathas - they are delicious! Nazim, on the other side of the restaurant, orders a table full of food. When we meet him outside, he is once again agitated - What's the problem now? You didn't pay! But we did pay ... You didn't pay for me!!<br />
We move on and soon, with relief, reach our destination. Nazim is happy to accept our 6000 rp, plus 200 ($4) for his lunch. He is in a much better temper now, and so are we.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piramal Haveli and front garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fxyYg2Z_QPQQmEEmCxGSwLaNWJKojGzbGOU3whLDcFcs2RyzmouU-Ets1dVsSFeVVdV9QL4zBONVzutWRfYsUV3AEXSrqg336yfqEQHNMzteR9rMHmDu7NZjQDJjHj0XXDEJYu6LHflj/s1600/DSC03250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fxyYg2Z_QPQQmEEmCxGSwLaNWJKojGzbGOU3whLDcFcs2RyzmouU-Ets1dVsSFeVVdV9QL4zBONVzutWRfYsUV3AEXSrqg336yfqEQHNMzteR9rMHmDu7NZjQDJjHj0XXDEJYu6LHflj/s400/DSC03250.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gold Room at Piramal Haveli</td></tr>
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The <a href="https://www.neemranahotels.com/the-piramal-haveli-shekhavati-rajasthan/" target="_blank">Piramal Haveli</a> is a gorgeous, early 20th C, crumbly and characterful building, originally a merchant’s house. Now inherited by two brothers, one half is used as accommodation, the other sadly left to crumble. There are two courtyards, large front garden with trees, flowers and lawn; back garden with dust and peacocks. We seem to be the only guests (there are 8 guest rooms). We book for dinner then go for a walk in the largish village - donkeys, camels, sari-clad women peeking from beneath their veils, school kids - everyone smiling and happy to see us, seems we are the only tourists in the village!<br />
Dinner, with strong Kingfisher beer that charming Ajay (assistant manager?) has procured for us, is a delicious <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thali" target="_blank">veg thali</a>, and we are comprehensively stuffed.<br />
<br />
We are here for a rest after a tiring four days in Delhi, so morning walk after a large (yummy!) breakfast, skip lunch, afternoon walk to local temple - a new construction on a large rubble-filled ground, not so attractive, but the sunset colours are lovely and so are the local people. Can’t for the life of us work out where to buy beer, but we do find some cold juice for our vodka cocktails on the porch. Ajay is cooking tonight, and the food is even better! Baby eggplant curry, and a green bean curry are wonderful.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Friendly locals in Bagar village</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCUfcJ9XTqy8v5KrllBIehszfkPkLXJEEpMRBqQ0BWj6BULcFSJjqzmoUn8dBROKv4hwx5bLcdP8PLdKUWysMZRHPD48zk8wMLOf-DFgPQim_R2gLUT1gSx2IXp6slen1gESOLR9Uf_WN/s1600/DSC02919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCUfcJ9XTqy8v5KrllBIehszfkPkLXJEEpMRBqQ0BWj6BULcFSJjqzmoUn8dBROKv4hwx5bLcdP8PLdKUWysMZRHPD48zk8wMLOf-DFgPQim_R2gLUT1gSx2IXp6slen1gESOLR9Uf_WN/s400/DSC02919.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ajay serving breakfast in the main courtyard</td></tr>
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For our final day we hire a driver for a tour of the region - to Jhunjhunu, Nawalgarh and Dundlod for various temples and havelis. At the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rani_Sati_Temple" target="_blank">Rani Sati temple</a> in Jhunjhunu (controversial, as it celebrates an act of Sati, or widow-burning) we are invited by a teenage girl to accompany her middle-class family from Mumbai. Here on their holidays they can see we are out of our depth! The main temple is spectacular, and kitsch, as only a Hindu temple can be - and there is beautiful puja (ceremony) happening involving fingerpainting with henna and water before the main shrine. But no photos :( Then to Modi Haveli, which we find after walking up and down the marketplace a couple of times. There are painted walls everywhere! But only a few of the dozens (hundreds?) of old painted havelis are open to enter.<br />
<br />
Next is Dundlod, a village near Nawalgarh, where we visit the dusty old fort. Just a few rooms open and it’s as if they haven’t changed (or been dusted) since the family moved out a few decades ago - the spooky sense of a habitat left almost undisturbed. They have no change for our 100rp note (a common plight in India!). Nearby, the Satanaryan temple, around a century old, it is also dusty and somewhat decrepit, and we wake the temple guardian from his nap. Showing us around takes two minutes, it is tiny, and I offer him a 100rp note for his trouble. But it is torn and he can’t accept it! (another common plight), so I replace with a new one. Then - Goenka Haveli, quite impressive, and the guide is a dab hand at taking photos. He gets another 100rp note. Finally Nawalgarh, and the Havelis here are really amazing, as they are not only very intact, but also set up as museums to assist in understanding the history and lifestyles of these families. <a href="http://www.kamalmorarkahavelimuseum.com/book.html" target="_blank">Morarka Haveli Museum</a>, and <a href="http://www.podarhavelimuseum.org/default_1.htm" target="_blank">Podar Haveli Museum</a> are the ‘must-do’ locations in this area, the second in particular is amazingly restored, has a fabulous guide, and multiple museum rooms of more or less interest - silverware, ceramics, marble sculpture, regional wedding garb, regional painting styles, models of forts and palaces … and much, much more. We cannot see it all, but leave feeling very satisfied.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4xKe1KQHr8mAarldv6HeHFCa4i1f2lIa3SCgP31IAAjoQQDzIjqW9KWmP0GbsASZpBIMMI-hosgiQRojsYFs5hQ6lVN4nz-duwQgCIKMzbVvN-QlkKTZqeeSGoOAfX4QpAxqyBR-hrqr/s1600/DSC03083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4xKe1KQHr8mAarldv6HeHFCa4i1f2lIa3SCgP31IAAjoQQDzIjqW9KWmP0GbsASZpBIMMI-hosgiQRojsYFs5hQ6lVN4nz-duwQgCIKMzbVvN-QlkKTZqeeSGoOAfX4QpAxqyBR-hrqr/s400/DSC03083.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacred kitsch at Rani Sati Temple</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrx364kXdh23gmIImtRjQUfrXZkRQP9I6oBOuLAy-9EtDs_vDmhyPtMHGH6VYjJvxB6DrWxFVSPQRxcJ-Qid3PwwB4bC_tS2zbg0lQ93nR-fidYU1dGgyx6fvHCcCg6oULoecP-9ckqcwK/s1600/DSC03217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrx364kXdh23gmIImtRjQUfrXZkRQP9I6oBOuLAy-9EtDs_vDmhyPtMHGH6VYjJvxB6DrWxFVSPQRxcJ-Qid3PwwB4bC_tS2zbg0lQ93nR-fidYU1dGgyx6fvHCcCg6oULoecP-9ckqcwK/s400/DSC03217.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spectacular Poddar Haveli, Nawalgarh</td></tr>
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Back at Bagar, Raju, the PH manager, says that there’s a festival tonight at the new temple, so we go for a walk. When we arrive the Bollywood Disco Van (that we have heard around the streets on other evenings) is in full swing with women dancing around. They immediately grab me and drag me in to dance. It’s fun! Until I look around and see that I am the centre of a large circle of people with phones out, recording my performance! OMG. I am dragged here and there for dances and selfies until I manage to drag myself away - let’s get outta here!<br />
I decide that Hindu is probably, at least superficially, the most fun religion - they love to sing and dance, and the temples are all decorated as if for Christmas!<br />
<br />
Checking out in the morning we tell Raju that we visited the temple. ‘Yes, I already heard that you were dancing!’ he says. ‘That’s why I have to leave town now’, I lament. Ajay chuckles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-YN0gSJYQrr_ifTTwdXJEcyqHN24l8a-G5A4IjKMheBVDzELxbDRYAWzE3RkuEv6BuvmSHRCcIjVatAZyEfseS4MN10M7rPyh8h-IbJK7FRY9aZbhLT89PPUy_3wTCcV1fyZ4q-UnPK5y/s1600/bagar_dance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-YN0gSJYQrr_ifTTwdXJEcyqHN24l8a-G5A4IjKMheBVDzELxbDRYAWzE3RkuEv6BuvmSHRCcIjVatAZyEfseS4MN10M7rPyh8h-IbJK7FRY9aZbhLT89PPUy_3wTCcV1fyZ4q-UnPK5y/s400/bagar_dance.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dancing at the temple, Bagar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQlWs4YzhCJqgpBAnIUkwlKLnzbTTPfv76oPMWR7qaa1hP03jgN2_Bjy1lYko5Ca0bVwONwNfHbMJGnuSpJlOiQmoKAIBYdGywpiyPPXQU8KC1XsuMJbGuj1PX-nblEmfNXJfs30DBWuig/s1600/DSC03051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQlWs4YzhCJqgpBAnIUkwlKLnzbTTPfv76oPMWR7qaa1hP03jgN2_Bjy1lYko5Ca0bVwONwNfHbMJGnuSpJlOiQmoKAIBYdGywpiyPPXQU8KC1XsuMJbGuj1PX-nblEmfNXJfs30DBWuig/s400/DSC03051.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris and friends, Bagar village</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-11845533322426725752018-12-08T11:11:00.000+11:002018-12-09T16:57:20.309+11:00Delhi - Diwali and qawwali<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have already finished our trip and my first post is finally here! I have so many notes and images, and will slowly get them posted :) See the whole <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/belindaallen/albums/72157704414448995" target="_blank">Photo gallery</a> here.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Hauz Khas Village</h3>
<div>
We fly AirIndia as it is direct to Delhi, and the flight is totally populated by Indian people - we almost feel that we are there already. When we see decorations at the check-in counters we think they are celebrating Diwali, which is tomorrow, but then we see decorations all through the check-in hall, it is for Christmas, almost 2 months early!<br />
<br />
Hauz Khas Village (southern Delhi) is a <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hauz_Khas_Complex" target="_blank">historic village</a> dating back to the C13th next to the old water tank (lake), madrasa (Islamic college) and tomb monuments of a Mughal enclave. In the 80s it was renovated and since then is reputedly transforming into a trendy upmarket area with bars, boutiques and antique shops, and to a degree this seems true. At night the main strip is a dive of bars, fast food and suburban youth looking for fun, In the daytime hip middle class girls come in for some edgy shopping. And there are many fancy wedding-wear shops. But always very close are the slums: we walk in and feel like aliens. Not a tourist, or any middle class person. The old community houses give way to shanties and the crumbling streets to piles of rubble. They wonder what we are doing here, and so do I.<br />
<br />
HK Village when we arrive in the evening is reminiscent of Kings Cross, full of bars, clubs and boisterous young men. Not quite the boutique arty haven I anticipated. And Chris has been expecting something more upmarket than our slightly shabby Airbnb apartment. But it's spacious, and right on Hauz Khas park. Trees obscure what would otherwise be a fabulous view from the balcony, but it's very pleasant. We find a ‘south Indian diner’ and eat dosas, very cheap but no beer :(</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'tank' at Hauz Khas Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDbREBq-qlvr_GARDPZhM7346ZbYdFuooZuYROCmur_pi0zYi18bBiwjRWGMqXfBeZSTBFRUmV-q8xkrRYFxbkyRVw6RQPAtcnTA-kBpraz7dItG4KvJMrQva1ehtddPncWNfWsaFfyg04/s1600/DSC02562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 12.8px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDbREBq-qlvr_GARDPZhM7346ZbYdFuooZuYROCmur_pi0zYi18bBiwjRWGMqXfBeZSTBFRUmV-q8xkrRYFxbkyRVw6RQPAtcnTA-kBpraz7dItG4KvJMrQva1ehtddPncWNfWsaFfyg04/s400/DSC02562.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slum girls - Hauz Khas village</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Diwali</h3>
We wake up early to monkeys and squirrels on our balcony, and apparently there are also deer in the park ... today we head to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutb_Minar_complex" target="_blank">Qutb Minar complex</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mehrauli_Archaeological_Park" target="_blank">Mehrauli Archaeological Park</a>.<br />
Q Minar is already busy, but it's an impressive site, the tower itself surprisingly awe-inspiring, and the mosque facades with red sandstone carving are gorgeous. A lovely thing is the green parrots nesting in crevices (we realise later that these are everywhere). The crowds of Indian visitors who arrive are largely dressed in Diwali finery, so it's all quite colourful.<br />
Walking to Mehrauli Archaeological Park nearby, we encounter a street full of flower sellers with orange and yellow marigold garlands - traditional Diwali decorations. Not everyone gets a day off for Diwali. The large, free public park has no tourists in sight; a few wanderers and some rather bored security guards having to spend their Diwali here. It's the site of one of the ancient settlements in Delhi - monuments are in various states of decay, sometimes charming; sometimes sad, with strewn rubbish.<br />
Back in HKV shops are all closed for Diwali - so we wander around the village, and find local ladies taking Diwali offerings into the surrounding slums. Late afternoon, the local archeological park is buzzing as surrounding houses turn on Diwali lights. The tombs and madrasa are picturesque in the twilight, and so is a multicoloured house alongside the park that looks like a slumdog millionaire movie set.<br />
We're invited to a local guesthouse for drinks and fireworks. They have a view over the park which, like ours, is obscured by trees. A few fireworks are starting - the government has legislated that they will happen between 8-10pm, we shall see. Our host arrives with an esky, turns the light on, and a few guests wander in as we sip generous G&Ts with mint, no ice. But we are feeling Sydney time, past 2 in the morning, so as the fireworks fire up, we head home to bed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiob111e9o0-_hUHnX3nKuGbKfCpGQiLDyyHTD7trrmRuIm8-G0yU9x9ghu8OM7rcIuiC5e1e9dzBzVUeNjTymnz8DHp4RHgKHdnDqg8s0aA6tukY-tifvtyUCNgjCcqrZ1mwLEm9KyDDS0/s1600/DSC02243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiob111e9o0-_hUHnX3nKuGbKfCpGQiLDyyHTD7trrmRuIm8-G0yU9x9ghu8OM7rcIuiC5e1e9dzBzVUeNjTymnz8DHp4RHgKHdnDqg8s0aA6tukY-tifvtyUCNgjCcqrZ1mwLEm9KyDDS0/s400/DSC02243.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorgeous red sandstone carving at Qutb Minar complex</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garland sellers, Mehrauli - "hey! take my photo! with flowers!"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multicoloured house - Hauz Khas Village</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Delhi, after Diwali</h3>
We have managed to sleep through the noise, but as predicted the smoke/smog this morning is truly awful, we can barely see the park beyond the trees. <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/nov/08/firecrackers-from-diwali-celebrations-shroud-delhi-in-toxic-smog" target="_blank">Delhi is already one of the most polluted cities in the world, so it is really quite hazardous</a>. We breakfast at L'Opera, a gorgeous French patisserie just around the corner - quiche, croissant, latte - really delicious. Then another walk in the archaeology park, foggy and atmospheric. A last quick walk around HKV, as shops are opening, then off to Nizamuddin East.<br />
GG B&B is a very nice house in a very nice neighbourhood (gated suburb), operated by a long-resident Nagaland family, and the rooms have air purifiers!<br />
After lunch at Turtle Cafe, over the main road to the crazy labyrinth of Nizamuddin West for (hopefully) some <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qawwali" target="_blank">qawwali</a> music at the Dargah of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nizamuddin_Auliya" target="_blank">Nizamuddin Auliya</a>. Previously we have been so fascinated by the otherness of this place. But wow, the crowds are stupendous - long queues to get into the shrine, nowhere to stand, let alone sit, no sign of qawwali except for one lone random singer in the midst of the crowd. Once again wonder what we are doing here, so we head home early.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoggy Hauz Khas park after Diwali</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crazy crowds at Nizamuddin Dargah</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Delhi qawwali</h3>
Next day we want to try again for Niz Dargah, but in the morning 'pop in' to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humayun%27s_Tomb" target="_blank">Humayun's Tomb</a>. Choosing to walk via back streets, rather than the main road, we are followed by a persistent street dog, who spends the walk defending us from all other neighbourhood dogs. It's a noisy walk! Still smoggy today and H. Tomb is very atmospheric. One does not 'pop' here, but wanders slowly through enchanting vistas. The site has been progressively upgraded over the past several years, and is looking lovely, if dusty. If only all the water courses were running ...<br />
As we leave we see signs for a new archaeological park - <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunder_Nursery" target="_blank">Sunder Nursery</a> is just over the road, and free entry for now. The main area is very smart, and has a couple of beautifully restored small tombs, with intricate plaster carving. Further out it is still quite wild, with monuments in various stages of restoration. As well as a park, there is a nursery for cultivation of local flora, and habitats for fauna and birdlife, but we are too tired to explore it all.<br />
After midday rest we head off again to Niz West, this time with a Plan B - <a href="http://www.natgeotraveller.in/rhythm-divine-qawwali-sessions-at-delhis-hazrat-inayat-khan-dargah/" target="_blank">qawwali at Inayat Khan Dargah</a>*. It's Friday - holy day - and Nizamuddin Dargah again seems very crowded so we don't even try to enter, but head 'straight' to Inayat Khan, which we find after walking in several circles. At 6pm we are beckoned in as qawwali is about to start, and find ourselves the only audience to the four seated musicians. Over the next 10 min or so several other westerners wander in. What a difference to Niz. Dargah just down the road! It feels a little awkward but the music is enchanting. One by one each of us rises to make an offering, and after 40 min it is over and we hurry out to Karim's for a mughal dinner of mutton curry and dal. Finally satisfied with music and food, we head home for an early night.<br />
* <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inayat_Khan" target="_blank">INAYAT KHAN</a> was a westernised Sufi saint who lived most of his life in Europe and was responsible for the spread of Sufism internationally. His shrine is in an elegant modern building, a lovely oasis in the chaos of Niz W. No photos allowed :(<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humayun's Tomb in Diwali smog</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
CLOTHING</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hC_jtu5gGmDhfRndWG5975qZQiS3qV6MVOAr_8V6yj13wFdEReT64wLeDabQQQFGGX6kmKy_kDRqgeIZPg3-YoA35sLh9XVZM2RwNf991EF7Tfh-_ntnYi1iIB_mGxrcPLUuoj84qxzG/s1600/DSC02416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hC_jtu5gGmDhfRndWG5975qZQiS3qV6MVOAr_8V6yj13wFdEReT64wLeDabQQQFGGX6kmKy_kDRqgeIZPg3-YoA35sLh9XVZM2RwNf991EF7Tfh-_ntnYi1iIB_mGxrcPLUuoj84qxzG/s400/DSC02416.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Women in salwar kameez, taking Diwali offerings to a shrine in the slum - Hauz Khas village</td></tr>
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While India is very Westernised in many ways, especially in the city, traditional and indigenous clothing is still quite prevalent, especially for women. At some historic monuments where there are large numbers of Indian tourists it can be very picturesque, with women dressing and adorning themselves as for a special occasion, sometimes in traditional saris, or often the more modern 'salwar kameez' - both beautiful and practical. It's a struggle keeping the dowdy men out of the photographs. Lower-caste women such as sweepers and road-workers are arrayed in startlingly bright traditional saris - pink is especially favoured as being a sacred colour. Such elegant wear among the rubble, dust and rubbish.<br />
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0Delhi, India28.7040592 77.1024901999999228.2581432 76.457043199999916 29.1499752 77.747937199999924tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-65113824564478202002018-11-05T13:50:00.002+11:002018-12-09T16:56:37.678+11:00Rajasthan revisited<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's been over 6 years since I first, briefly and tantalisingly, visited Rajasthan (northern India), and swore to return with Chris. At last we are about to set off.<br />
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It's more than 11 years since I <a href="https://belinda-ann.blogspot.com/2007/05/my-first-blog-post.html">first used this blog to journal our overseas travels</a> (Europe 2007). In the age of Instagram, Facebook and WhatsApp it seems rather a retro thing to do, but in the interest of consistency (and because I still hate taking photos on my phone), the adventures of our Rajasthan trip will be recorded here for posterity :)<br />
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Below is the map of our planned route. See you on the way!<br />
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UPDATE! <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/belindaallen/albums/72157704414448995" target="_blank">Photo gallery</a><br />
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-70805202801395077252017-11-30T13:07:00.000+11:002017-11-30T13:07:21.912+11:00Vietnam: Photography and Egotism<h3>
A photographic eye</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEN_-M7w2dbfmnVJIxq81lP8xIgewb-k85qGPbvfNwP1LzCatqizJzkD9zeJvnqfAkpdlMLds42-uIPNwOgdBKUO-4nWtuT7G-t5T4Dp2P8NVWwmj3k4AaySnRCk8PSH83kpsprD0TA5M/s1600/IMGP6451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1541" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEN_-M7w2dbfmnVJIxq81lP8xIgewb-k85qGPbvfNwP1LzCatqizJzkD9zeJvnqfAkpdlMLds42-uIPNwOgdBKUO-4nWtuT7G-t5T4Dp2P8NVWwmj3k4AaySnRCk8PSH83kpsprD0TA5M/s400/IMGP6451.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Blue door, Hoi An</td></tr>
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</h3>
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New day, new place, new sights - another several dozen photographs. Digital makes it even easier to snap at whim - why not take several versions of each shot? It costs nothing, except my sanity later when I spend hours, days, weeks downloading and trawling through the plethora of pixels.</div>
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What for? Mementos, snaps for the album? Of course. And for manipulating into my creative life, into a meaningful composition? Yes, a few will be selected for that glorious end. But the real importance of travelling with a photographic eye is how it transforms how I see a place, a face, a landscape, a detail - it is always seeking meaningful juxtaposition, pleasing proportion, colourful character and tantalising texture. To actively seek aesthetic stimulation, rather than float through as passive recipient. To be an agent, not mere observer, of revelation, hunting and revealing <span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>the lovely and the surprising.</div>
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To experience more intensely - that is the purpose of a photographic eye - the photographs are almost incidental.</div>
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<h3>
Egotism (Nha Trang)</h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Barber, Nha Trang</td></tr>
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We drive for hours through mountains and vegetation ever-changing with the altitude; pines and birches give way to rainforest and creepers of the tropical coast. A quick dip in a turbulent sea, then head towards the markets for food. It is beginning to drizzle.<br />
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Along an old wall mirrors are hung, and tarpaulins stretched above - it is a barber shop. Chris needs a haircut so we approach to ask the price - 50,000 dong ($2.50). We all huddle under the tarp as Chris settles into the chair. Five minutes of deft snipping and he is neatly shorn. I ask for a photograph, and the barber and Chris line up, grinning. The barber will not look into the camera.<br />
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It's clear when I walk around the market, compulsively lifting the camera to record every fascinating sight, that many local people prefer not to be photographed. As I raise the camera, they melt away; even if I ask to photograph their stall, and they agree, they often walk away and leave the stall empty.<br />
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The Vietnamese traditionally live much more publicly than we do in the west, carrying out mundane activities - eating, sleeping, even washing and pissing, in the street. At the end of the day they are not cocooned and cloistered as we tend to be, but throng in cafes, parks and streets, laying down mats on the footpath to define their 'private' space. Confucian tradition emphasises community and family, and individualism is thought to be self-indulgent. They seem to lack the painfully engorged self- consciousness that we suffer from, so how can they comprehend our compulsive need for self-documentation? And why should we feel entitled to thrust self- consciousness upon them?<br />
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-12905240284928831802017-11-30T12:52:00.000+11:002017-11-30T13:07:40.301+11:00Vietnam: Begging, and the craft of Cat Cat girls<h3>
Cat Cat girls (Sapa)</h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Hmong girls, Sapa</td></tr>
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<i>Cat Cat girls are dressed in black </i><br />
<i>Baskets and babies on their back </i><br />
<i>Calling in gay cacophony</i><br />
<i>"Hello, Madame, buy from me!"</i><br />
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Dressed in devilish costume, the Black Hmong tribe girls haunt the streets of Sapa seeking new blood. Howls of delight and the pattering of feet meet the arrival of fresh tourists. After a day they know I will not buy and they leave me alone.<br />
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They are poor girls, from remote villages, and they (as in other Hmong tribes) learn to embroider as babies. They sell bags, hats, purses, scarves - only a few dollars each - that must have taken hours or days to make. They know they are worth more, but it’s a better option than begging, and they manage to seem both humorous and dignified.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lee-fin, Sapa</td></tr>
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The Red Dzao are different - shaved forehead and tall red turban, proud and exotic. They know they are begging, and it makes them angry, they feel demeaned. Lee-fin is thirty, has a gold tooth, and is beautiful like a wicked elf. She agrees to be photographed for 40,000 dong and we make an assignation. She tells us to recognise her by her jewellery, and indeed she has four thick ropes of silver around her neck. Like pirates these women carry their wealth with them - silver jewellery and their best embroidery.<br />
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The next morning we find Lee-fin by the square. She jumps up, eager for the deal, and her colleagues jump up too - 'I friend of Lee-fin! You photo me!' It seems to them such an easy way to make money, but no, we want only Lee-fin. As she faces the camera she becomes awkward, finds it hard to smile, wipes her mouth - is she worried it is dirty? Three shots and we hand her 40,000 dong. 'No! 50 thousand!' she demands. No, Lee-fin, this is what we agreed. She turns her back, haughtily - we are of no further use.<br />
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<h3>
Begging (and other monetary matters)</h3>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdn4S0qH5FnuEu29d3812b8OKbKjFc0M6mLQMYjPSKguifnNNQungjQflWGY06Wx_Sso9H13XMZkUboPmbCMW3lx61H2Q8mLl19u9L-ayf35YnyRyN9BXNJdLIw0WyMg4x_uEjSU3hqTe/s1600/IMGP6111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1541" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdn4S0qH5FnuEu29d3812b8OKbKjFc0M6mLQMYjPSKguifnNNQungjQflWGY06Wx_Sso9H13XMZkUboPmbCMW3lx61H2Q8mLl19u9L-ayf35YnyRyN9BXNJdLIw0WyMg4x_uEjSU3hqTe/s400/IMGP6111.jpg" width="265" /></a><br />
Of course there is begging - as there always is wherever a disparity in wealth is evident. In poorer communities (such as on the Mekong Delta) it seems less visible, but in both cities and towns it takes various forms. I prefer to donate to charities than street beggars, and never haggle too hard at markets, but there is not always a simple formula.<br />
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We are upstairs at Dalat market eating lunch and an old woman approaches. I fumble in my purse and offer a note. I am not quite used to the currency yet, and she laughs in my face when she sees the note, it is an insult - 500 dong (2.5 cents). True, it is almost worthless, but surely better than nothing?<br />
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A man wanders Sa Dec market holding out his cap. He too is old - what history he would have seen! We give him 10,000 dong to take a photograph. Later we are told that the Mekong Delta brick kiln workers earn 10,000 dong an hour. Mostly we just take photographs and do not offer money - advised by our guide to offer smiles and thanks, it seems demeaning to offer ‘tips’ for everything, emphasising our privilege, when what we want to do is show respect for them and their home.<br />
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In the mountains, the tribal women pursue tourists like a flock of chattering predators, pressing handicrafts onto us, some of them very charming, and insist that we buy. The prices are so low - it is more glorified begging than a dignified living.<br />
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In some situations tips are expected - but how much? Through our journey we offer tips ranging from 500,000 dong ($25, for our Mekong Delta guide) to 10,000 (50 cents) for taking photo, carrying bags, other small assistances, but are never sure if we have it right. After a meal at an ‘Ancient house’ on the Mekong Delta we offer the old couple 100,000 dong to purchase a calendar from their wall. It’s a strange request, but they seem happy. And after a few days stay at a hotel we leave the same amount as a tip for services such as booking tickets and calling cabs. So we are later surprised at a demand from a tout for a 100,000 dong tip for one minute of assistance onto a train. Resentfully, we end up paying 60,000.<br />
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On the same trip one of the train guards, a sweet-natured young woman, asks for a dollar when we alight, and I think she is expecting a tip. I offer 50,000 dong ($2.50), my smallest note, and she shakes her head. ‘No, a dollar, for souvenir’. Oh! She wants an Aussie dollar coin! but I don’t have one, and apologise. She takes the proffered note reluctantly and with thanks then says - ‘Wait!’ She runs back onto the train, and a minute later emerges with a gold coin which she presses into my hand - it is an Aussie dollar!<br />
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-53757320535522143172017-11-30T12:39:00.000+11:002017-11-30T13:10:31.040+11:00Vietnam: Trains and Traffic<h3>
Train (Nha Trang-Saigon)</h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from train, N. Vietnam</td></tr>
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The same song plays over and over on Rail-TV: the singers, tune and lyrics are all different, but still it's the same song. It features tears and smiles and heartbreak. It stars young and shiny girls and boys with tight jeans and glossy black hair. They mime and emote amongst props of flowers and hearts, dead trees and autumn leaves, moonlight and star-shine. Their dancing technique makes high-school musicals look good.</div>
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Meanwhile the landscape slips by - rice fields and water buffalo, unfamiliar orchards and crops, stony hillsides and the occasional pagoda. But the locals, who make up 99% of the passengers aren't here to see the landscape. The fare for the eight hour trip from Nha Trang to Saigon is about $10 - they are here for the cheap travel from A to B.</div>
<br />
Travelling as we tourists do - hours on the road or train or boat, only to leave again for the next place a day or two later; moving in endless circles; photographing, writing, planning as if our lives depended on it - must seem absurd to the local people.<br />
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<h3>
The cowboys of Lao Cai (Hanoi-Lao Cai)</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcF0pJ4DRtGeqrh7TklhMOxIdwR_HflTuD1OijtOBvBVxqafR5-e1G4xAUXljtiwOAcyGtWA_1zvC3RRMJFt_GIqxjO7miNw2ZrbGGZNIkrlj9TpM_ODHDV8IIH-HUlu9V9JP2V4TdCnmH/s1600/IMGP6869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1541" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcF0pJ4DRtGeqrh7TklhMOxIdwR_HflTuD1OijtOBvBVxqafR5-e1G4xAUXljtiwOAcyGtWA_1zvC3RRMJFt_GIqxjO7miNw2ZrbGGZNIkrlj9TpM_ODHDV8IIH-HUlu9V9JP2V4TdCnmH/s400/IMGP6869.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Train track, Hanoi</td></tr>
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The first one we meet in Hanoi, as we board the Lao Cai train. 'Let me help you': neatly dressed and officious, he must work for the railway. We have already walked 3/4 the length of the platform carrying our bags and have almost reached our carriage; still he takes my bag, inspects our ticket, and marches forthrightly to the carriage and into our compartment, where he shows our berths and demonstrates the light switches. Then holds out his hand for a 100,000 dong 'tip'. We laugh - that's five times what we paid the taxi driver to bring us here! - but he is serious and insistent. 20,000, 40,000 finally 60,000 and he leaves. Clearly he does not work for the railway.<br />
<br />
At almost 6am we disembark, bleary- eyed and determined that no-one will touch our bags. A cluster of neatly- dressed smooth-talking young men surround us. 'Let me help you. Where do you want to go?' Directed to the local bus, we ask the fare - '300,000 dong. Per person.' I am dozily handing over the notes when reality hits - 'No!' I yelp, snatching back the money, 'that's too much!' We threaten to take another bus instead, and the fare is quickly negotiated down to only 250% of the real fare.<br />
<br />
Returning by bus from Bac Ha to Lao Cai a few days later we pay only a 20% premium - a bargain - but it's a slow trip with a flat tyre on the way, and numerous freight pickups and drop-offs. Then Lao Cai to Sapa - half an hour wait, 33% markup, another flat tyre. Finally reaching Sapa around two hours behind schedule, the driver drops us on the outskirts, off the map, so we need another cowboy in a minibus to charge us the same fare for the 2km into town. Seems that they think we belong on tourist buses; maybe they're right.<br />
<br />
Back at Lao Cai station for the return to Hanoi I try to find where to check in our travel vouchers. A confident and neatly dressed young man takes them from me and says he will get our ticket. He does so and leads us to the train (we hold tightly onto our bags). It's a grotty compartment in the wrong carriage. Actually it's also the wrong train. We grab back our vouchers and ask what's going on - his English is not so good now. An argument ensues after which we are finally handed a new ticket<br />
- right train this time, still the wrong compartment, but it is for a 'deluxe' tourist carriage so we settle down to wait. Another young man approaches, 'I sell you VIP upgrade?' No way Hosé!!<br />
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<h3>
Playing in the traffic</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMa_CLVwCojT1xPkVey0NCr7FlzmrMKeMxy0vn-XP4onlGqXGj-16lElxS-P3aioZ4JRrldGf1flORaypPFxpZ_Q7_QMNcwgwoyyG1eXL7qmIUEv3J0B492OtThR_POZZhGjrUkUxoT6k/s1600/IMGP5614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1542" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMa_CLVwCojT1xPkVey0NCr7FlzmrMKeMxy0vn-XP4onlGqXGj-16lElxS-P3aioZ4JRrldGf1flORaypPFxpZ_Q7_QMNcwgwoyyG1eXL7qmIUEv3J0B492OtThR_POZZhGjrUkUxoT6k/s400/IMGP5614.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the street, Hanoi</td></tr>
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It is warm and humid, and gently drizzling, and the constant streams of hooting scooters, taxis and cars, and jingling bicycles, are increasing to dense shoals, skilfully slipping and weaving around each other, so nonchalant. Here there is a cyclo with family of tourists braving the din. Here a skinny woman laden with heavy baskets makes her way on foot to her street corner to spread her wares. Here a moped, the teenage driver is texting on his mobile as his girl hangs on. and another bike with a family of two parents and three vari-sized children squashed between.<br />
<br />
It seems impossible that any pedestrian could cross through this whirling mass, but look closer - two young girls on their way home from school saunter across the road, chatting and laughing they join two even smaller boys who play in the gutter. The chaos seems terrifying to we whose life is dedicated to rationality and order, but those children playing in the traffic are accustomed to and comfortable with the apparent disarray, and at a very young age have learned the skills to survive it.belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-11809628155048777112017-11-30T12:19:00.000+11:002017-11-30T13:11:23.612+11:00Vietnam: Blind - Caged - WiredWho knows why I never got around to posting about our Vietnam trip, back in October 2010? A friend is currently travelling there and has inspired me to finally publish these musings ...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/belindaallen/albums/72157625276951911" target="_blank">You can see the photos from the trip here.</a><br />
<h3>
Blind Girl (Saigon)</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCKBRZvV7ntSj-u76iUJjebGrq61rmeZf3aL0naJ-Wwr7FyONbNtiLDQ4BPmrRU9mP-Skf-K4E6uL9CNC1OTNz86mCjHpvxTJE0MbYoTgh8Udl0sAiicIpbdxWhrD6Rx85oFzZC1JV8e7J/s1600/IMGP5381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1541" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCKBRZvV7ntSj-u76iUJjebGrq61rmeZf3aL0naJ-Wwr7FyONbNtiLDQ4BPmrRU9mP-Skf-K4E6uL9CNC1OTNz86mCjHpvxTJE0MbYoTgh8Udl0sAiicIpbdxWhrD6Rx85oFzZC1JV8e7J/s400/IMGP5381.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blind girl, Saigon</td></tr>
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At the Institute for the Blind, a blind albino girl leads me through a maze of corridors to a cool, high-ceilinged room; translucent partitions separate high, hard beds. I lie, face-down, feeling relief from the frantic activity of the street below. The traffic is barely a hum as her soft, deft fingers press and caress.<br />
<br />
We are silent, those partaking in this hour of therapy, but the blind girls call to each other like birds - cooing, chirruping and chuckling. It doesn't sound like language, more like complicated music, with high and low notes, grunts and hums. I wonder what they are speaking about - do they laugh at us plump white ladies? No - they are teenagers, being as teenagers everywhere, sharing romantic intrigue in their charming, cloistered world.<br />
<h3>
Caged (Dalat)</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztKT-bq6ZfHYpqUN-ZUeRdJMrXQLEZh3Et6aVYqOcYODc4YAIlkH_tzHTNVc8DHiyne974EvC6meU6HCnMLwiQaakFtlTCJ9nzQT4FhlyHHnC3f2UjtqhTwyXmjDvl683EAcW9Iwz2a10/s1600/IMGP6109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1542" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztKT-bq6ZfHYpqUN-ZUeRdJMrXQLEZh3Et6aVYqOcYODc4YAIlkH_tzHTNVc8DHiyne974EvC6meU6HCnMLwiQaakFtlTCJ9nzQT4FhlyHHnC3f2UjtqhTwyXmjDvl683EAcW9Iwz2a10/s400/IMGP6109.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skinned, Sa Dec, Mekong Delta</td></tr>
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<div>
<br /></div>
At Dalat Market one can buy almost any kind of fresh food - fruit, vegetables, seafood and meat, including all extremities and entrails. (In Sa Dec a fishmonger is amused when we recoil from the live frogs that she is selling - already skinned.)<br />
The freshest food of all is alive: fish, crabs, lobsters, eels, toads, chickens and ducks. The birds, in cages made of upturned baskets, squirm and squawk and look around, blinking and bewildered.<br />
<br />
The stall proprietor, business-like, pulls out a pair of ducks and ties their legs together. Plopped onto the scale they lie compliant - why do they not struggle to escape? Seemingly resigned to their fate, they are snatched up and stuffed into a bag, and hooked onto motorbike handlebars. They still stare around, blinking, as they are hurried home - for chopping block and cooking pot? or to be reprieved as egg layers? I know no more than they know themselves.<br />
<br />
In Saigon we visit a pagoda where a cage full of wild birds is strapped to a scooter. The driver indicates by sign that we can purchase and release a bird - for improved Karma? and what of the Karma of those who trapped and imprisoned the birds?<br />
<br />
On the road from Dalat to Nha Trang there is a cafe with a chained monkey and many caged birds. The birds hop about, disconsolate, picturesque, silhouetted against the river. Children run wild, playing on the riverbank and in the shallows. In western culture we somehow deplore the caging of birds while caging our children ... my husband says, "we are all caged".<br />
<h3>
Wired</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9BJ0cH_IDh2M_jg0466YkvRsWJKy_W0dSxUFn9rKty_H-u_4SZwPoVGYH4Qd0ogtnHv0AteJYiCWVeClNdyLscYO7iBrYz8TUvbmyzFatZEbLWew7PLQZcbrNVckFXJQstJRy4SFlRqLF/s1600/IMGP5424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1541" data-original-width="1024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9BJ0cH_IDh2M_jg0466YkvRsWJKy_W0dSxUFn9rKty_H-u_4SZwPoVGYH4Qd0ogtnHv0AteJYiCWVeClNdyLscYO7iBrYz8TUvbmyzFatZEbLWew7PLQZcbrNVckFXJQstJRy4SFlRqLF/s400/IMGP5424.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Wires, Saigon</td></tr>
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Arriving in Saigon or Hanoi (particularly the former), one of the first things to be noticed is the incredible profusion of electrical cabling that swoops and tangles its way along streets, around trees and poles, and hanging like parasitic bundles of snakes from the walls. It's a miracle that it all works, and that those responsible are not regularly electrocuted - or perhaps they are!<br />
<br />
Electricity is everywhere, and so is television - the meanest fisherman's shack is topped by a towering aerial. Some of the poorest people in the world now have access to global communication, which unfortunately seems to translate to force-feeding an endless flow of soft-drink advertisements and propaganda pieces promoting the new, consumption-driven Vietnam.<br />
<br />
Perhaps the most empowering technology of all is the mobile phone - it is now hard to imagine a Vietnam that functioned without - as everyone from school child to aged crone has at least one, and often two (one for the family, one for the girlfriend!) During our constant travel, calls buzz to and fro to assist our progress. The driver of the bus to Halong Bay passes me his phone - it's a call from our travel agent in Saigon, about 1200 km away, informing us of the weather outlook for Halong Bay. Out on the bay, many kilometres out into the forest of amazing, ancient karst formations, the phone of the boat's tour guide jangles - it's for me, from our hotel in Hanoi, asking about the train tickets they are booking for us.<br />
<br />
When we arrive back at the hotel, the manager is beckons me over to a computer in the lobby - he shows me that he is buying clothes online. 'Why?' I want to ask, 'Hanoi has the cheapest clothes in the world!' But I already know the answer: 'Because I can'.belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-15735109678887711642017-08-27T18:38:00.000+10:002017-08-27T13:05:55.068+10:00Japan: Land of the long white squid<h4>
26 July - Tokyo</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeiB0R5AaEtrqOCFHDOVKAapfcekpMOFNh-dizuHr-Hn4L2vU98YglH7DX-gNir8TKSWSPDlNU1yikAG5kC5k2XKqVas3Ov21ucd8sbauKtAgRhPx0ZtOFMuNzSBFhd2Sa-OjZBMgmFsXB/s1600/IMGP5721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1314" data-original-width="901" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeiB0R5AaEtrqOCFHDOVKAapfcekpMOFNh-dizuHr-Hn4L2vU98YglH7DX-gNir8TKSWSPDlNU1yikAG5kC5k2XKqVas3Ov21ucd8sbauKtAgRhPx0ZtOFMuNzSBFhd2Sa-OjZBMgmFsXB/s320/IMGP5721.jpg" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our neighbourhood - Nakameguro</td></tr>
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And so to the big city! A relaxed train ride, changing at Osuki. There we realise that this is where the famous Maglev train can be seen! And we don’t have time to see it! Oh well … We arrive in Ebisu, our closest JR stop, and resolve to walk to the flat in pouring rain. Finally, Chris has to buy an umbrella. (Pretty much everywhere Japanese people carry umbrellas. After a short time in Japan you realise why …).<br />
<br />
Google mapping while towing luggage, holding an umbrella, and negotiating busy footpaths and roads, is challenging, but we find the flat easily and Nakameguro, our neighbourhood, looks cool. The inexpensive Airbnb apartment is enormous, and set in a garden! But on closer inspection we see that it is somewhat neglected and grubby, and the facilities are poor (filthy washing machine! NO cooking utensils in the kitchen!). Oh well, we will make like campers.<br />
<br />
First to the ¥100 shop for bowls, then to the supermarket for a fabulous sashimi platter with several kinds of fish and, of course, squid ($8!) and sake. After a delicious entree at home of sashimi and pickles, we head out for dinner. The road along the subway line is festooned with pink lanterns and lined with all manner of restaurants and bars - looking good! Across the main road, the very hip canal area is a groovy mix of even funkier cafes and restaurants, and alt-boutiques. Finding a tiny, tucked-away place along the canal we go in - it’s a cute 12 seat restaurant with <i>kushikatsu</i> (crumbed stuff on skewers) and <i>okonomiyaki</i> (pancakes). We have crumbed quail eggs, asparagus with bacon, pork with ginger, squid pancake, and a weird pickled eggplant/mustard dish (<i>karashinasu</i>, I think). And sake. It’s very nice, a little on the pricy side (this is Tokyo), but not rave-worthy - so we are surprised later to find out that Mahakala is firmly on the super-foodie radar, having been recommended by Anthony Bourdain!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf24p_YGLRzCK_MZpdyaIFf-9bo7yr39mw7KdkSBbKEloeXgmotfP1Fx6I2RKMBw956Q_jj8gp-C_P13UccqUIin6CMwjP59fwGC_JvkMLCXKb2Z2qJXk4k15d3kSSyamj4njtapueg5Li/s1600/IMGP5729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="973" data-original-width="1469" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf24p_YGLRzCK_MZpdyaIFf-9bo7yr39mw7KdkSBbKEloeXgmotfP1Fx6I2RKMBw956Q_jj8gp-C_P13UccqUIin6CMwjP59fwGC_JvkMLCXKb2Z2qJXk4k15d3kSSyamj4njtapueg5Li/s320/IMGP5729.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahakala - hip kushikatsu place</td></tr>
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<h4>
27-30 July</h4>
A rundown of what we did in Tokyo:<br />
<br />
<i>Shibuya, Harajuku, Meiji</i><br />
Walk via Nakameguro to Shibuya (famously the busiest crossing in the world, somewhat <meh> on a grey day), where we fail to find a seat at Starbucks, but get to browse a dusty old bookstore and eat ramen, as well as shop at the quirky department store ‘Tokyu Hands’ (hardware, craft supplies, luggage …). From there walk up to Harajuku to see the Goth-Lolita girls, but the famous Takeshita St is a mess of sightseers, somewhat ruining the ambience, and swamping the alt-fashion icons. Then to Yoyogi Park for the Meiji Shrine and garden. We are fading fast, so don’t get to Shinjuku tonight, but head home for more supermarket sashimi with soba noodles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2W-Iv_vhAskCZInydcknSm_4h5ZnpsCQvxGaJlnevuyCbbGFPCfZq63pNN15_aC7HG2B6nTjDrHH2om5iEdD7n9ib3ZNgi3gMrzS1KIKwMhtph6MNySRZ_f3NFSMP0WcrKMuZikcr_ew/s1600/IMGP5741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2W-Iv_vhAskCZInydcknSm_4h5ZnpsCQvxGaJlnevuyCbbGFPCfZq63pNN15_aC7HG2B6nTjDrHH2om5iEdD7n9ib3ZNgi3gMrzS1KIKwMhtph6MNySRZ_f3NFSMP0WcrKMuZikcr_ew/s320/IMGP5741.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street art, Ebisu</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIUwizL994S2men8Q8QmJAzlTvPTY2fNSSphu7BNEDlHA26DN-IVoJSXOMkqK04FIGQ4t51Jz6xqE1Jcc1XC7y9gyLu-XwF41u82DpiVX8JKigZXj3OHZxwtDSjaV2-yCO_o9FXWuNP0ak/s1600/IMGP5760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIUwizL994S2men8Q8QmJAzlTvPTY2fNSSphu7BNEDlHA26DN-IVoJSXOMkqK04FIGQ4t51Jz6xqE1Jcc1XC7y9gyLu-XwF41u82DpiVX8JKigZXj3OHZxwtDSjaV2-yCO_o9FXWuNP0ak/s320/IMGP5760.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shibuya</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8PdUIxe0NSpxAobHanXkfA7CPf_qHo7yVEzm7qxldFcjAnFTzjrv_IZf7R7rOpXO5BA7pYPdq141XmIXZXq4Se6hiLjLDjYO31xDAmDaucMvSCqgkP0iLFIEHLXLU4XJUHePHdYAGV2_/s1600/2017-07-27+13.06.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8PdUIxe0NSpxAobHanXkfA7CPf_qHo7yVEzm7qxldFcjAnFTzjrv_IZf7R7rOpXO5BA7pYPdq141XmIXZXq4Se6hiLjLDjYO31xDAmDaucMvSCqgkP0iLFIEHLXLU4XJUHePHdYAGV2_/s320/2017-07-27+13.06.13.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ramen with beni shoga (red ginger pickle) at Shibuya</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5SZY9U8l__3OEO1GIkl36bXsK8DyY9OFTgZksU_xy9xFPChpQywr1XPeqAyEO1E46A3W4s-0B3Ghsr9ii5fe0jTUft0arlWqpKe9z1op6BxbFj31UWhA522Jq5G4mc-0-gpdvlpRbmAGW/s1600/IMGP5782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5SZY9U8l__3OEO1GIkl36bXsK8DyY9OFTgZksU_xy9xFPChpQywr1XPeqAyEO1E46A3W4s-0B3Ghsr9ii5fe0jTUft0arlWqpKe9z1op6BxbFj31UWhA522Jq5G4mc-0-gpdvlpRbmAGW/s320/IMGP5782.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Takeshita St - can't see the Harajuku girls for the sightseers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjooloDK-Q35K-7UoO0hoMXOjn8HxvF1wlIV0kWdvm2ZewULroyk2p2U2cXXzOVoAShohnmpyUTIa7FeryybIOzAhZSpGetdSGBCZaK5LbGjztu-XtVCVe3AqWZGQqdzVckFbC088GcC35l/s1600/IMGP5797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1499" data-original-width="993" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjooloDK-Q35K-7UoO0hoMXOjn8HxvF1wlIV0kWdvm2ZewULroyk2p2U2cXXzOVoAShohnmpyUTIa7FeryybIOzAhZSpGetdSGBCZaK5LbGjztu-XtVCVe3AqWZGQqdzVckFbC088GcC35l/s320/IMGP5797.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourists and sake barrels - Meiji Shrine</td></tr>
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<br />
To Ueno Park (huge lotus ponds, zoo, shrines, galleries …), and the National Museum. The museum is huge and takes all day, so we don’t get to the other galleries. A grand old edifice in the style of the great European museums, we see only half the rooms, but have lovely soup for lunch in the elegant cafe. After the museum, and quite a long train ride home, there’s only time for dinner - this time at a yakitori place close by, Kushiwakamaru. It’s popular, and we have to write our names on a list, but it’s worth the short wait.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgobg3QYCpCdrN-ogPsCZL8eCmwL-4Ppj_ObHK-D77MRHiA_TrAfSRkhfu6eqmFv5XveoeXwLNjFPFP5eiNnPErQfb2YJusSQEXKO_tFUScUvAATW7WG5mzdbMO4sTVs71FR9N5_u64emBW/s1600/IMGP5831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgobg3QYCpCdrN-ogPsCZL8eCmwL-4Ppj_ObHK-D77MRHiA_TrAfSRkhfu6eqmFv5XveoeXwLNjFPFP5eiNnPErQfb2YJusSQEXKO_tFUScUvAATW7WG5mzdbMO4sTVs71FR9N5_u64emBW/s320/IMGP5831.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddhist monk - Ueno Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii_fmyM7InJiGx6EuC-iVpmU3LoHjwC-KO_I681w6dLj-HD2jTTtoCkvCUDcUMsbN6onISUVbgRVOH24LxmO0kgUddIrhM-gcDkj_vMNOWIxsL5ITf3bofaNuuBRhbb_-j2vcU3eSZjsFF/s1600/IMGP5939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1198" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii_fmyM7InJiGx6EuC-iVpmU3LoHjwC-KO_I681w6dLj-HD2jTTtoCkvCUDcUMsbN6onISUVbgRVOH24LxmO0kgUddIrhM-gcDkj_vMNOWIxsL5ITf3bofaNuuBRhbb_-j2vcU3eSZjsFF/s320/IMGP5939.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jar with ash glaze (Heian period, 10th C) - National Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JXSKGhYjQy8O6z0aLyPT6P22U0wGfKo9NHiyNceVA5HTOBT1nMA2NkfjVBARr1zmJx5-eN9KtU3RrGWi4c3kGOPkDAs7bWasnWdy9euIp7bTBTEgIPINJ_O9j8wMCyvSEZ7P7mSSSYHM/s1600/2017-07-28+14.35.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JXSKGhYjQy8O6z0aLyPT6P22U0wGfKo9NHiyNceVA5HTOBT1nMA2NkfjVBARr1zmJx5-eN9KtU3RrGWi4c3kGOPkDAs7bWasnWdy9euIp7bTBTEgIPINJ_O9j8wMCyvSEZ7P7mSSSYHM/s320/2017-07-28+14.35.42.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Yummy veg and seafood soup at the museum</td></tr>
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<i>Tsukiji</i><br />
To Tsukiji fishmarket this morning, for breakfast and shopping. We haven’t gone into the ballot to try to get into the wholesale market (they have limited numbers), so are cruising the outer market, little alleyways of shops and restaurants catering to visitors. It’s very busy! We wander around looking for a place to eat that looks just right, and find it in a tiny arcade - a sit up counter for sushi with only about 10 seats (Itadori Bekkan). It’s very good, and not too pricey - about $30 each. Then try to again locate some of the shops we saw on our way in ... it’s now twice as busy, and a real labyrinth! The knife shop is of course very expensive, and I don’t know enough to spend that kind of money, but buy a breadknife and some scissors. Then a pottery shop - all mass produced stuff and inexpensive compared to the ‘craft’ pottery, so I stock up on a few bowls. Had planned to go on to Kappabashi St, the restaurant supply area for kitchenware and plastic food, but we’ve had all we can stand - get us out of here!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPN0nPY6Vc49mWs_uhbWsYzkxSz0n8C46i0mzcsWoW9OnT6T9R3s2hYVnM-ZIr-bynnwcJWDI0kMl5UtsQAebFBqBGLkWzuAT7hJ4xZEGzrpCrcspGOZ1DG7dAHbfTvFdgfX9qWRJSPgX/s1600/IMGP6016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPN0nPY6Vc49mWs_uhbWsYzkxSz0n8C46i0mzcsWoW9OnT6T9R3s2hYVnM-ZIr-bynnwcJWDI0kMl5UtsQAebFBqBGLkWzuAT7hJ4xZEGzrpCrcspGOZ1DG7dAHbfTvFdgfX9qWRJSPgX/s320/IMGP6016.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsukiji Fish market (outer market)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid2vTFFOY2NVd2nkzos-8N6z9hjKDJWSmg7L0peETlmVmakt194XOAOhA7A3xwKRdh2A_-pRwyjiII05jnLhdjj4SHjC4BhP6I5fUi4eStcNa7-f0SuMkJOvLuXK8Gv6ugHOdj5JXeBin_/s1600/IMGP6020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid2vTFFOY2NVd2nkzos-8N6z9hjKDJWSmg7L0peETlmVmakt194XOAOhA7A3xwKRdh2A_-pRwyjiII05jnLhdjj4SHjC4BhP6I5fUi4eStcNa7-f0SuMkJOvLuXK8Gv6ugHOdj5JXeBin_/s320/IMGP6020.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Itadori Bekkan sushi restaurant, Tsukiji</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN6FM3AZhBFNk3fQSokUXsuzS75MixlL-yjVZIui0K3STEQucZuxzHwx1uQTaePUn_jfuIJkim9Zsz-XflJM8bkNDb23H2m4GDIPH6nohGeTQRny-R_JrbQ0GLHQbmpyncJnfZZ-sW0ajf/s1600/IMGP6021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN6FM3AZhBFNk3fQSokUXsuzS75MixlL-yjVZIui0K3STEQucZuxzHwx1uQTaePUn_jfuIJkim9Zsz-XflJM8bkNDb23H2m4GDIPH6nohGeTQRny-R_JrbQ0GLHQbmpyncJnfZZ-sW0ajf/s320/IMGP6021.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Itadori Bekkan sushi - yum!</td></tr>
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<i>Roppongi and TOP</i><br />
After the fishmarket - Roppongi - a serious art area. First the Mori Museum, then the (huge!) National Art Centre, for an extended exhibition of SE Asian Art. The galleries are impressive, and the exhibition is good too, with a big political focus as so much contemporary art from developing countries, but not devoid of beauty. It’s raining VERY hard when we finish there - time to go home. Another supermarket dinner, it's late and the pickings are slim, but still it’s good food - torikatsu (crumbed chicken), pickled octopus, salmon and salad.<br />
<br />
The newly renovated Tokyo Photography Museum (TOP) is in Ebisu, close by. The exhibitions are worth seeing (of special note - Araki Nobuyoshi: Sentimental Journey), and the gallery space itself very impressive. This afternoon, Chris is watching his beloved AFL, so I get to go shopping alone!<br />
<br />
<i>Shimokita and Shinjuku</i><br />
Shimo-kitazawa, west of Shibuya, is reputedly hip, cool and laid back, with lots of vintage clothes shops. I’m hunting for old kimono and yukata (for the fabric) so hoping this will be the place. But wow, when I get there, there are streams of visitors heading from the train, and once again, it is inundated by sightseers. It’s like Newtown on steroids. There are loads of vintage clothes shops (among boutiques, cafes, hairdressers), but they are clones - all selling Hawaiian shirts, Levi jeans, Converse shoes, old US rock t-shirts and granny dresses at inflated prices ($40 and up). Chicago Thrift Store, which does stock old kimono and yukata, has only nasty synthetic kimono, or new cheap cotton yukata, and even these are overpriced. Oh well. I feel very happy that I scored a nice vintage frock back in Nakame, at a little street stall for only $20 :)<br />
<br />
Finally, we will check out Shinjku, the nightlife area, tonight. We’re feeling a little over the crowds, but Sunday night shouldn’t be too crazy. But it is still a little mad. The Golden Gai district - tiny alleyways lined with tiny bars - is subdued, with many bars closed, but the main streets are thronged with tourists and touts. Where should we eat? Not the Robot Restaurant! It’s $80 just to get in! After photo-ing a bit of the characteristic neon, we slink back to our quiet neighbourhood yakitori restaurant in Nakame, mmm nice. We must be getting old :)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9a5LJNaAm98goWNSyMS8DmCqMHUwNLV7M6VpetOu7oRW0wCeuOqZhpmZSrl20pFHs5RmbWvO51Vq-ZImY9XY7-IuxkJzTkORHd_vG9Y5RzfQUj_1E0gFOFQpagQwdNVAbYRp_yz-61m0/s1600/IMGP6041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9a5LJNaAm98goWNSyMS8DmCqMHUwNLV7M6VpetOu7oRW0wCeuOqZhpmZSrl20pFHs5RmbWvO51Vq-ZImY9XY7-IuxkJzTkORHd_vG9Y5RzfQUj_1E0gFOFQpagQwdNVAbYRp_yz-61m0/s320/IMGP6041.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris at Mori Art Museum, Roppongi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxB0KbDvVKNoM0PRs9DLnDgBXYEqJ-8Ay37lw1RU5qv96GsP4mkwaH6E4YVkuevW7wA7iauCNhbt9gL4xhf4Msm7tm63aCNQeQiKssl9tZOyyFPMlwG0Ar64ctcNci3zgr9yxryfo97PU/s1600/IMGP6125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1392" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxB0KbDvVKNoM0PRs9DLnDgBXYEqJ-8Ay37lw1RU5qv96GsP4mkwaH6E4YVkuevW7wA7iauCNhbt9gL4xhf4Msm7tm63aCNQeQiKssl9tZOyyFPMlwG0Ar64ctcNci3zgr9yxryfo97PU/s320/IMGP6125.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to Tokyo Photography Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WbG0Iz5SxqCLrCd3pxfrs_riAoAMOYU76_fF_3bP2fe3da2xhNUnexhJ-WRlKiGmYx7yVS5VlaBwlpPGrQ-eCeVkSZ7PZm3zgirC2Do2eG8AFLPTijmWQ6sxUNoOs37N1_5AsqQJ1xgm/s1600/IMGP6133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WbG0Iz5SxqCLrCd3pxfrs_riAoAMOYU76_fF_3bP2fe3da2xhNUnexhJ-WRlKiGmYx7yVS5VlaBwlpPGrQ-eCeVkSZ7PZm3zgirC2Do2eG8AFLPTijmWQ6sxUNoOs37N1_5AsqQJ1xgm/s320/IMGP6133.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shimokitazawa - not so laid back</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi14S-CzxrdQspurCdbJ8PDQnSvbdIULmiI0drohN98ZNTqrBydfvGazYSSQMRuEiIDm5MnEQXn8ZO9p0WZS_XH4WN0JRH42bgBz0r2WNZRTOgHE0bVsRVSacxjO66v2PLMTnAcYFNrxhkQ/s1600/IMGP6142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi14S-CzxrdQspurCdbJ8PDQnSvbdIULmiI0drohN98ZNTqrBydfvGazYSSQMRuEiIDm5MnEQXn8ZO9p0WZS_XH4WN0JRH42bgBz0r2WNZRTOgHE0bVsRVSacxjO66v2PLMTnAcYFNrxhkQ/s320/IMGP6142.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shinjuku girls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSf2tNasJvVZyZAnPPHto859W20xS0FyoacaENQPGkyIWVIgJi18zwcjdwCmBEChU6bAjAHUj2uXKZTkv0QHWkIKoztVDfbOyys0m3BSP5ZpgZ8s3DXx6cOfC3ju0fMB0Kq7Efl4_TbOK5/s1600/IMGP6152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSf2tNasJvVZyZAnPPHto859W20xS0FyoacaENQPGkyIWVIgJi18zwcjdwCmBEChU6bAjAHUj2uXKZTkv0QHWkIKoztVDfbOyys0m3BSP5ZpgZ8s3DXx6cOfC3ju0fMB0Kq7Efl4_TbOK5/s320/IMGP6152.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shinjuku neon</td></tr>
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<i>Going home</i><br />
Our last day! I’ve been missing the Japanese breakfasts, so we get one at a little chain restaurant (Yoshinoya) near Nakame station, and it’s plain but very good. We had planned a brief excursion before heading to the airport this afternoon but … we are exhausted. So we head to the airport, have a surprisingly good ramen for lunch, then delicious green tea ice-cream and sake in a glass from a vending machine. The flight home is overnight, never a nice prospect in economy class. But JAL economy is quite spacious (only two seats abreast by the window, and heaps of legroom). And we are home in under 10 hours, no stopovers - highly recommended!<br />
<br />
Tokyo is HUGE, vibrant, crowded and tiring. Thank goodness we had the haven of quaint, laid back Nakame, although it seemed so busy and buzzy when we first arrived. There's so much that we didn’t get to do: eat steak, do karaoke, go to a public onsen, see enough woodblock prints or contemporary Japanese art, do a cooking or printing workshop … we have just scratched the surface - until next time ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYdNu8M-Y-7eJ7QoB-_Ft8lT8-RvMsB5Yayr_2jv1hjsK0CMIOFMNbnqLz8yPzFcu68zVK34zS7K5oWy9ypzPvDpv1b5EsxUxlKVCAF3fFdVmIOvpOZWaPg-drxbBaBlro6VdjZ0mG8MG/s1600/2017-07-31+14.58.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYdNu8M-Y-7eJ7QoB-_Ft8lT8-RvMsB5Yayr_2jv1hjsK0CMIOFMNbnqLz8yPzFcu68zVK34zS7K5oWy9ypzPvDpv1b5EsxUxlKVCAF3fFdVmIOvpOZWaPg-drxbBaBlro6VdjZ0mG8MG/s320/2017-07-31+14.58.10.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final ramen ...</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-85443396893342589372017-08-27T12:36:00.001+10:002017-08-27T17:37:23.460+10:00Japan: Retro and OTT<h4>
RETRO IN JAPAN</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-878EtKZF0KvGkSlknhHRKXIsUOKYweEfKHLHzsJnJYD8SdLyZoty94NQZOUFTI8En8Xk3u9GG_NtIWCR2KbAMiXn-bWzIeweCEm9vMJJyJMH2AJD29j813K41eKeH9qfXOKfSyAPgYH1/s1600/IMGP3412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1061" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-878EtKZF0KvGkSlknhHRKXIsUOKYweEfKHLHzsJnJYD8SdLyZoty94NQZOUFTI8En8Xk3u9GG_NtIWCR2KbAMiXn-bWzIeweCEm9vMJJyJMH2AJD29j813K41eKeH9qfXOKfSyAPgYH1/s320/IMGP3412.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire hydrant, Hakodate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While we think of Japan as a bastion of both the startlingly new, and the reassuringly traditional, what is surprising is the rustic retro aesthetic that prevails, framing both modernity and history. At least in regional towns, it’s as though time stopped in the economic heyday of the early 70s, with urban architecture in shabby Jetsons concrete, trains and buses (and especially taxis) straight from my school days, schoolgirls in knee-length sailor style dresses on old-fashioned upright bicycles. The shops, the manners, the clothes, the haircuts - until we reach central Tokyo it’s as though punk and post-modernism never happened.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE9Etun8QUAkOebuWCnnlzQiPbC3_XDoW48hxSXlGRzlG3Uqk2I-J7dWzbH782x7YlciEWIW1HiXQPETHs_ZCXKS0sUsBL3JcZTjvEPhd-u3jRDFfimkknvMJdIlVou_eOVyYRMFJV5gZZ/s1600/IMGP2665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1060" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE9Etun8QUAkOebuWCnnlzQiPbC3_XDoW48hxSXlGRzlG3Uqk2I-J7dWzbH782x7YlciEWIW1HiXQPETHs_ZCXKS0sUsBL3JcZTjvEPhd-u3jRDFfimkknvMJdIlVou_eOVyYRMFJV5gZZ/s320/IMGP2665.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rustic in Sapporo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSoOIxv-laCnuKPpdbpszmhgX1PUP1K8MKA8pjd0T-JzP4vj1elDPA4Vc3eSRysiWKFY9feLIcvTm7H2sOTbY7ZQwkgDlnt99Giui94-95iA7ZTLLWUM-EZej2ToPNX8VOKbXegSVf7qS/s1600/IMGP2696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1057" data-original-width="1600" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSoOIxv-laCnuKPpdbpszmhgX1PUP1K8MKA8pjd0T-JzP4vj1elDPA4Vc3eSRysiWKFY9feLIcvTm7H2sOTbY7ZQwkgDlnt99Giui94-95iA7ZTLLWUM-EZej2ToPNX8VOKbXegSVf7qS/s320/IMGP2696.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schoolgirls, Sapporo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMuJh3JLKEgGC1uS0T1fc0p8J6AwjNpR6vw3Qhtxmwq-5soYzJC0qx8pyopO_PsNO4PN_sKbYQ6OTablU2qtVcNi983pF6u0MfJ1-S4mPI8j0W7wGYOVuWZWmmIpT1O8_cIeXd_mkpNCR/s1600/IMGP3122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMuJh3JLKEgGC1uS0T1fc0p8J6AwjNpR6vw3Qhtxmwq-5soYzJC0qx8pyopO_PsNO4PN_sKbYQ6OTablU2qtVcNi983pF6u0MfJ1-S4mPI8j0W7wGYOVuWZWmmIpT1O8_cIeXd_mkpNCR/s320/IMGP3122.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retro gift shops - Mt Uzu (Toyako)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNS6USfiiVir3ByLCRI-WaPMMPWvuBWwiF6sAkNrU7zXfy7054-ovCI98GkPl7AflCous1zTItb5g8OGPkMSQseCgO86F4vStGhyphenhyphenr8XN7Sb4LpAcbqxvfE2Sj_dN-x3iSF26ZX_7dV3V5o/s1600/IMGP4033+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="976" data-original-width="1473" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNS6USfiiVir3ByLCRI-WaPMMPWvuBWwiF6sAkNrU7zXfy7054-ovCI98GkPl7AflCous1zTItb5g8OGPkMSQseCgO86F4vStGhyphenhyphenr8XN7Sb4LpAcbqxvfE2Sj_dN-x3iSF26ZX_7dV3V5o/s320/IMGP4033+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retro skyline, Hirosaki</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB-aH3uAUTH0izlAYuEDNPgELUhLEAPkBYPS4KFf4RdcosHmv8GvKppnE1yi6WOHqE9J6Ean6w-z1nBy7TyCH2uJa4IZ729lM_H6GKgaBMx85X7B5lnuuGWf_ZO2zWFr20VIuYevSXOy0v/s1600/IMGP3457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB-aH3uAUTH0izlAYuEDNPgELUhLEAPkBYPS4KFf4RdcosHmv8GvKppnE1yi6WOHqE9J6Ean6w-z1nBy7TyCH2uJa4IZ729lM_H6GKgaBMx85X7B5lnuuGWf_ZO2zWFr20VIuYevSXOy0v/s320/IMGP3457.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doorman and taxi, Hakodate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4170p04r3MjvydMk703N8Gj6uWIceP3TKEMjgIkHkk2sk1Gq0brZiDjx7woIkGUbwLLKU1u9zGt6kOlcNKXQcjh4ZmBIgjRg-FVoPi2_WkuQKKjDPycpwjzaVZYPQm1vfkDzTUbn4nUj/s1600/IMGP4069+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4170p04r3MjvydMk703N8Gj6uWIceP3TKEMjgIkHkk2sk1Gq0brZiDjx7woIkGUbwLLKU1u9zGt6kOlcNKXQcjh4ZmBIgjRg-FVoPi2_WkuQKKjDPycpwjzaVZYPQm1vfkDzTUbn4nUj/s320/IMGP4069+copy.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hirosaki street scene</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Q71QvnpoKO7TWeYKO43ixirAqTu2Ran5jwEWqiScYGzaKebnqMPapd6bvB7e-JkDJiEFPWjkTq7ckpnymnkc4BaMuJk1p3SNt_HgigcXT0c3v4e1gCxQRjiZk1RW0otkTF4FtifJjw2s/s1600/IMGP4582+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Q71QvnpoKO7TWeYKO43ixirAqTu2Ran5jwEWqiScYGzaKebnqMPapd6bvB7e-JkDJiEFPWjkTq7ckpnymnkc4BaMuJk1p3SNt_HgigcXT0c3v4e1gCxQRjiZk1RW0otkTF4FtifJjw2s/s320/IMGP4582+copy.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hydrant, Hiraizumi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Q4AtJfZLLMwg8brWuis7i1Hvoui0q2DSeW37qvHjCMzmCzcicLWlHwbtDyzx1xDyvrM3pQfhYRjIbw6mgQ0jsA1PSFN-4ma0psOAFNPI-Kuo6cGVjgO6HlGLOl09Br-mE81IhDMux8zT/s1600/IMGP4666+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1404" data-original-width="952" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Q4AtJfZLLMwg8brWuis7i1Hvoui0q2DSeW37qvHjCMzmCzcicLWlHwbtDyzx1xDyvrM3pQfhYRjIbw6mgQ0jsA1PSFN-4ma0psOAFNPI-Kuo6cGVjgO6HlGLOl09Br-mE81IhDMux8zT/s320/IMGP4666+copy.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cafe sign, Hiraizumi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP6SWpDnXgoDxTrnvW6sIXmE4aU_Lq3WMvW4OabcjaimBu0YJtpO_8s-ruoqLagcOas6gfuMZGLn3iWL103CZ36buoIomYU8Haf1HR5LPiDzJqN2Fa7FAp93rEBHy_322R7XsUvPkILUzi/s1600/IMGP5043+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP6SWpDnXgoDxTrnvW6sIXmE4aU_Lq3WMvW4OabcjaimBu0YJtpO_8s-ruoqLagcOas6gfuMZGLn3iWL103CZ36buoIomYU8Haf1HR5LPiDzJqN2Fa7FAp93rEBHy_322R7XsUvPkILUzi/s320/IMGP5043+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hardware shop, Yamagata</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqIbfzsXOIIwLp-i-g2t2mpKGxJUar9g-jk_dE2yWHJ3XaGWM3ukD57sCBPppG9Gq4reBLZDMh_OKAiBffeAJhI3QnNqToeRUhtRXbZiCThFiWOsAejsuvqEAcl9zRD0c00bZABW_zFa0/s1600/IMGP5734+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqIbfzsXOIIwLp-i-g2t2mpKGxJUar9g-jk_dE2yWHJ3XaGWM3ukD57sCBPppG9Gq4reBLZDMh_OKAiBffeAJhI3QnNqToeRUhtRXbZiCThFiWOsAejsuvqEAcl9zRD0c00bZABW_zFa0/s320/IMGP5734+copy.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retro in Tokyo (Nakameguro)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj45TTnRRif8ZXGTGWq5bUSqmVQLsW75n9TvtR3cs0YVArqPIq__HtDm-GpklGzJZysZeiL5beJ8s7tBKGDyS_giGElzhdETuErss4eZHPUXoqowsVsOSwJK0oaaruKKZqKKW2FLdu2_u2F/s1600/IMGP5737+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj45TTnRRif8ZXGTGWq5bUSqmVQLsW75n9TvtR3cs0YVArqPIq__HtDm-GpklGzJZysZeiL5beJ8s7tBKGDyS_giGElzhdETuErss4eZHPUXoqowsVsOSwJK0oaaruKKZqKKW2FLdu2_u2F/s320/IMGP5737+copy.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retro in Tokyo 2 (Nakameguro)</td></tr>
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<h4 style="clear: both;">
OTT IN JAPAN</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6b94laFiYJDn1Oq-K2KRil4xMgvRw-td_TrUyyFvnWSPozKIOtLomNuAavRIB1-0U5sepT6j5R9zSSHGIIr16mryGkYrk0cNuRgeFsy9oDXNxdcpfF_aBocyKdR6WnEX4AUY_u33W8pHA/s1600/IMGP2831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1061" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6b94laFiYJDn1Oq-K2KRil4xMgvRw-td_TrUyyFvnWSPozKIOtLomNuAavRIB1-0U5sepT6j5R9zSSHGIIr16mryGkYrk0cNuRgeFsy9oDXNxdcpfF_aBocyKdR6WnEX4AUY_u33W8pHA/s320/IMGP2831.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OTT signage, Sapporo</td></tr>
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In Japan, things are done passionately, wholeheartedly, obsessively. It can be seen historically in the adoption and transformation of culture and cuisine (tea ceremony, pottery, calligraphy, whisky). And it is evident in everyday life: hygiene (toilets! slippers! toilet slippers!*), etiquette (amazing courtesy and intricate rules one is bound to break), bureaucracy (booking trains or arranging any kind of business, conducted with great intricacy and amazing efficiency).<br />
<br />
As a respite from madding Tokyo crowds, I hie to laid-back, hipster Shimokitazawa to check out the vintage clothes shops and … yes, more madding crowds following the whiff of a trend. The shops are all selling the same vintage Americana, and hipsters are outnumbered by sightseers. Even bohemian vintage is pursued with an obsessiveness that becomes conformity.<br />
<br />
A tourism lady conducting a survey among departing passengers at Narita Airport: what activities did we do? (choice of around 30, list in order of preference), how much did you spend? (in each of about 12 categories), where did we go? where did we shop? where did we stay? … OTT. The poor woman.<br />
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And don’t get me started on the OTT ‘kawaii’ (cuteness)! And the gift shopping! And the packaging!<br />
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* Yes, it's true about Japanese toilets. While traditional squat toilets are still around, more common are new-fangled western-style, with an amazing array of functions. I am too intimidated to press any but the flush button (and some flush automatically when you stand). But sometimes just sitting down is the signal for music, or the sound of a rushing waterfall, to begin playing :)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5vYQresRlamVj17L-IBwLGBsW-tCXBR0Ndf2fcv7_dV8r_72RNJX0N7Uc4CKVF_dZHvco2khw71O9s8QFscbkYz0z9IL-TajGWHJAMW1b5kq-Bm3lP9sPPDFB_upyx0-e4EZON003Bcr/s1600/IMGP3632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1074" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5vYQresRlamVj17L-IBwLGBsW-tCXBR0Ndf2fcv7_dV8r_72RNJX0N7Uc4CKVF_dZHvco2khw71O9s8QFscbkYz0z9IL-TajGWHJAMW1b5kq-Bm3lP9sPPDFB_upyx0-e4EZON003Bcr/s320/IMGP3632.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kawaii tram driver, Hakodate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjddsloQywScmD-qs1id9nAO3gY6qKgPT6SymMPPuNWj6asyJXEaaSG-RrhwhFp08d7oQ_rSnQQSrTmaYWpeeVpN4CmYf4Gd6VfWVRH5a3ejEaGE8MwYOCLUyItj89SWSQQvjEM_PHstE3U/s1600/IMGP3773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1060" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjddsloQywScmD-qs1id9nAO3gY6qKgPT6SymMPPuNWj6asyJXEaaSG-RrhwhFp08d7oQ_rSnQQSrTmaYWpeeVpN4CmYf4Gd6VfWVRH5a3ejEaGE8MwYOCLUyItj89SWSQQvjEM_PHstE3U/s320/IMGP3773.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kawaii post box, Hakodate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV30kk1ktdy01A0vZpzX3J-015wNjCI_PGPHfPxMVyTnzi9-qp0uRRPk_dA3i0x5y-0eEAZ4t9BpU06j1vnLbN0wuQ-5Kmof5dLagFu0LzP4ZFoFLd9u0DkurbeEYfEqhyphenhyphensNxwc5slwdoB/s1600/IMGP3186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV30kk1ktdy01A0vZpzX3J-015wNjCI_PGPHfPxMVyTnzi9-qp0uRRPk_dA3i0x5y-0eEAZ4t9BpU06j1vnLbN0wuQ-5Kmof5dLagFu0LzP4ZFoFLd9u0DkurbeEYfEqhyphenhyphensNxwc5slwdoB/s320/IMGP3186.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retro AND kawaii - 'face-in-hole' photo boards (kaohame) are everywhere!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNBc-4K2IkFHxPvOkonno36NRN06fIY8pcEDQuPZk6QPhGpdQUvwP0af_uw-Au4elGQnv-uOSNM2cK2FFPLoaixqCz_BHYMrKj3KVa6mzGj7aesuTsC7ozdKjWRj8i_YCUdzVEZqWUwrL/s1600/IMGP5046+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNBc-4K2IkFHxPvOkonno36NRN06fIY8pcEDQuPZk6QPhGpdQUvwP0af_uw-Au4elGQnv-uOSNM2cK2FFPLoaixqCz_BHYMrKj3KVa6mzGj7aesuTsC7ozdKjWRj8i_YCUdzVEZqWUwrL/s320/IMGP5046+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">OTT packaging for OTT gift shopping</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_TsyUWsf7A2q2MR9jvtrZGtBhoDg6yBbd_hEt_55UD4thzUrI9fp3BNYgHfDb2gJFRNIKSYBhbdp0-3yyDJYlluBfaG5GCqbxEhLmqHSF5j1TQfYFDd_RMvSDDAe2rjqmiyOb8gUmPSj/s1600/IMGP5783+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_TsyUWsf7A2q2MR9jvtrZGtBhoDg6yBbd_hEt_55UD4thzUrI9fp3BNYgHfDb2gJFRNIKSYBhbdp0-3yyDJYlluBfaG5GCqbxEhLmqHSF5j1TQfYFDd_RMvSDDAe2rjqmiyOb8gUmPSj/s320/IMGP5783+copy.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OTT crowds in Harajuku (Tokyo)</td></tr>
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<br />belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-50567296253028797042017-08-26T17:25:00.000+10:002017-08-27T14:35:21.215+10:00Japan: First there is a mountain ... + Photography<h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
23 July - Nikko to Mt. Fuji</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOIJBQ03naRIPThe12QU_Xwz-2iLJAOHYhXPoDZ4Kyye63KuqjokfwzplRgl0LUBVQVvdZ2waq7byw1AzNr6IHJrOv0WImmqdX5UaEvka3xPIDa48jEehdx4pjAAYFdDSxIvJyusT2kgmb/s1600/IMGP5346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOIJBQ03naRIPThe12QU_Xwz-2iLJAOHYhXPoDZ4Kyye63KuqjokfwzplRgl0LUBVQVvdZ2waq7byw1AzNr6IHJrOv0WImmqdX5UaEvka3xPIDa48jEehdx4pjAAYFdDSxIvJyusT2kgmb/s320/IMGP5346.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt Fuji view from our room<br />
(First image of my Ten Views of Mt Fuji series)
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It’s the longest travel day - around 5 hours on trains, with three changes. Of course, being Japan, it all goes like clockwork. And we have bought some lovely bento for the train! One of the greatest pleasure in travelling in Japan is the train travel - looking out, eating, doing some research (our mobile wifi another marvellous thing!). But most trains travel too fast to take useful photos from the window.</div>
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It’s quite late when we arrive at Kawaguchiko, near Mt Fuji, and a popular starting point for the Fuji climb. It’s a lovely old guesthouse, converted to a hostel with dorms and private rooms. Sadly, the big old bathroom has been divided into shower cubicles, catering for the large numbers of Western tourists. Our room has three large windows, a traditional tatami/futon set up, and a Fuji view - through rooftops, power lines and aerials - fab! After Nikko, I was concerned about it being another unfriendly touristy place, but it’s feeling good, and I’m glad we have three nights here. Dinner is a combini (convenience store) picnic in our room, with sake of course.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DGlVrsWvzCoSBbLltGMdf-KPZLDywmpWAnOPQP2z-aZ5DqzG_cMZuyhG5ruwfrOdttZGohgVTyNvc4snKC3PuztU0OgREyYB1cAG4GpMgBtNxiIo-SpIQbvheGiwC_RExdhQmwZF5-Xn/s1600/IMGP5618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DGlVrsWvzCoSBbLltGMdf-KPZLDywmpWAnOPQP2z-aZ5DqzG_cMZuyhG5ruwfrOdttZGohgVTyNvc4snKC3PuztU0OgREyYB1cAG4GpMgBtNxiIo-SpIQbvheGiwC_RExdhQmwZF5-Xn/s320/IMGP5618.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our traditional room in Kawaguchiko</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgnvb9bOMdKmv5U70NZFlgisJCH21FYhmJ36IR67BEPWDi8Ovr3Z1RWQlviKmkG33__aFYwlwb_8CdEDWXmNCFdKayFzVChtB8RWYE5g07rwRiYGpMimVpq0ak7kwsfi4cIZYKTuy-Vx8i/s1600/IMGP5344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgnvb9bOMdKmv5U70NZFlgisJCH21FYhmJ36IR67BEPWDi8Ovr3Z1RWQlviKmkG33__aFYwlwb_8CdEDWXmNCFdKayFzVChtB8RWYE5g07rwRiYGpMimVpq0ak7kwsfi4cIZYKTuy-Vx8i/s320/IMGP5344.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our local combini (7eleven - with retro taxi)</td></tr>
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<h4>
24-25 July - Kawaguchiko</h4>
Fuji is fickle, and appears/disappears among the clouds (<i>‘First there is a mountain, then there is no mountain, then there is’ - Donovan</i>). We get a two-day ticket for the sightseeing bus that will take us all around the five lakes area. First - to Oishi Park for floral Fuji views, then to Itchiku Kobota kimono museum - an artistic vision of a gallery and garden (no photos allowed inside, as usual!). A quick noodle stall lunch of soba noodle soup, and yakisoba (fried noodles), then to Iyashi no Sato - a restored traditional village rebuilt on the site of a former farming village destroyed by a landslide during a typhoon in 1966. It’s an open air museum and traditional craft village for learning about the culture and handicrafts. Touristy, but in a low key way, and there are some nice crafts, and even some homegrown organic veg. Chris even buys a souvenir - a cheap sake cup!<br />
Back home we find a tiny teriyaki restaurant not far from the station, and try the okonomiyaki and grilled salmon - it’s terrific, as long as we can put up with the non-stop western pop clips playing on the TV.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDfI9racUqzpcmNFbFkriIiwTDdP18QB1NQD9TLXYpq9nEROyRc4pEy9S_cipZKR63Z7zGgWTUqioWaPx8fnLMDDMr9q9zEuYUbMEJRkXTJhaxFR3tUNoJyLhhyQbz56GrcOI46Rm1NNU/s1600/IMGP5383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="1488" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDfI9racUqzpcmNFbFkriIiwTDdP18QB1NQD9TLXYpq9nEROyRc4pEy9S_cipZKR63Z7zGgWTUqioWaPx8fnLMDDMr9q9zEuYUbMEJRkXTJhaxFR3tUNoJyLhhyQbz56GrcOI46Rm1NNU/s320/IMGP5383.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris with floral Fuji - Oishi Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIJmmPgC_fJM921VDqeRMV_f72ke3vbeFkQ4lBDvzuB0v4MwhXsW-kUhuEelCrnQGAZWpxxUs2CpTyiVBUB_uXFjNKCN960nO5jYf7ghRWmDUEdEWUfDFWnF4EyqVvpjgNTFHdvlm68Tc/s1600/IMGP5432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIJmmPgC_fJM921VDqeRMV_f72ke3vbeFkQ4lBDvzuB0v4MwhXsW-kUhuEelCrnQGAZWpxxUs2CpTyiVBUB_uXFjNKCN960nO5jYf7ghRWmDUEdEWUfDFWnF4EyqVvpjgNTFHdvlm68Tc/s320/IMGP5432.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the garden at Itchiku Kobota Museum (Itchycoo Park?)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN7JxrO3D06dvvjZiJGnwg_gSkeq_qcfuZdYt9IHV0P3jO5VIEe2pUmml11f6hGj4_mtF-XWp-mJpC9ly2LUqDIw_uz11EXcCr-uK9T0FTYPGjXkEmJwZhAVFayeSGNWZ84-saaA_QP5P4/s1600/IMGP5465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN7JxrO3D06dvvjZiJGnwg_gSkeq_qcfuZdYt9IHV0P3jO5VIEe2pUmml11f6hGj4_mtF-XWp-mJpC9ly2LUqDIw_uz11EXcCr-uK9T0FTYPGjXkEmJwZhAVFayeSGNWZ84-saaA_QP5P4/s320/IMGP5465.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iyashi no Sato - craft enclave</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSuh5nFcG_D3MjmIJA7aitnjzPTyl74-ObQZuZ0O47J1RH0OdLOtjQSEhSCRvK8kg8eLDnTRcTMuxZNpKGoV7Z7d48nuYvQyhvM52UZwCtiD2Fgbvjzse57VFGAEqi4wprpS4OmHg5FMr/s1600/IMGP5547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSuh5nFcG_D3MjmIJA7aitnjzPTyl74-ObQZuZ0O47J1RH0OdLOtjQSEhSCRvK8kg8eLDnTRcTMuxZNpKGoV7Z7d48nuYvQyhvM52UZwCtiD2Fgbvjzse57VFGAEqi4wprpS4OmHg5FMr/s320/IMGP5547.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enormous Buddhist pines at Motosu-ko shrine</td></tr>
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Next day, we take a longer bus ride to more distant lakes - Saiko, Shoji-ko and Motosu-ko. The bus runs 2 hourly, so we have to hang about a bit in Motosu-ko, a small and rather non-descript village at the end of the bus route. Explore the neighbourhood - a shrine, a Buddhist temple and cemetery, a main road. Get some vending machine drinks - Chris always sticks to the milk coffee, I have tried the milk tea, green tea, lemon tea, vegetable juice, and today try the buckwheat tea. They are all pretty good, although the latter does taste a bit like dry grass. Drinks cost only about $2, but … all those plastic bottles! Mostly I carry a green tea bottle and fill it with water from the plentiful drinking fountains.<br />
Next stop - Aokigahara Jukai, also known as ‘suicide forest’, growing near Lake Saiko on a gnarly base of lava from Mt Fuji. A macabre idea, and it IS a spooky place (in a Miyazaki way), with mouldering trees and moss everywhere on the lumpy volcanic rocks. I see an old backpack down a crevice, and wonder …<br />
Back in town we finally get to try the local delicacy - Hoto - a miso, sweet potato and pumpkin stew with fat, chewy noodles - it's not really a summer dish, but - yum!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeonUMoorlw3xDNvnauEazaNxOzqGLt-a2vsLHcc1wctjRVW-zsWKNnh0peHrZbLP5CuauAkqIFnyguA-ZlMmHNMVV1ugYKJCbEXh8dToI5xzjYoKuJn1Wlw9cXV4xlBzN02hmsaHXL9Zd/s1600/IMGP5608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="976" data-original-width="1473" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeonUMoorlw3xDNvnauEazaNxOzqGLt-a2vsLHcc1wctjRVW-zsWKNnh0peHrZbLP5CuauAkqIFnyguA-ZlMmHNMVV1ugYKJCbEXh8dToI5xzjYoKuJn1Wlw9cXV4xlBzN02hmsaHXL9Zd/s320/IMGP5608.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoto restaurant</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuchzXk1cK_YglI079grWK1J91HH4R22Efwy2VhXf_3IQroWhvnHF5ilyhOzbMgumH4Hh1iIsdcF_r1XP1UVIY_WRZTtEca3wbmn-PfaCxyhdsoze8TyG38IqWO2pWSUfXyOCCgd63vGmF/s1600/IMGP5565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuchzXk1cK_YglI079grWK1J91HH4R22Efwy2VhXf_3IQroWhvnHF5ilyhOzbMgumH4Hh1iIsdcF_r1XP1UVIY_WRZTtEca3wbmn-PfaCxyhdsoze8TyG38IqWO2pWSUfXyOCCgd63vGmF/s320/IMGP5565.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spooky Aokigahara Forest</td></tr>
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<h4>
26 July - Kawaguchiko to Tokyo</h4>
Today, Fuji has disappeared from our window for good, so it is time to go. But not before encountering an uncouth bunch of young Chinese tourists who mess up the wash area, and the dining area, and have their stuff piled on all the chairs (though they are nowhere to be seen) when we come down for breakfast. They get back and grab their stuff, without acknowledging our existence. Seems they are not taught courtesy as the young Japanese are. I daresay a young bunch of Aussie kids could be equally lacking in manners, sad to say …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnzqkjvq1HJCdWHQrkyi-YFl3R3MpEPw4yu_9i7bjMTUckE6oFppHQounri9e99keE3_TJ8b_K2E6t6z7pLdfc1zzZuUBu9iKBrWm5P3ZVeu6gnXesGw4f_W9czmJ4RexVqJprs9J784Ai/s1600/IMGP5636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="981" data-original-width="1481" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnzqkjvq1HJCdWHQrkyi-YFl3R3MpEPw4yu_9i7bjMTUckE6oFppHQounri9e99keE3_TJ8b_K2E6t6z7pLdfc1zzZuUBu9iKBrWm5P3ZVeu6gnXesGw4f_W9czmJ4RexVqJprs9J784Ai/s320/IMGP5636.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young tourists on the train</td></tr>
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<h4>
PHOTOGRAPHY IN JAPAN</h4>
Japan, you would think, is the land of photography. And certainly, wherever there are Japanese tourists, are a zillion cameras and selfie sticks. But where one can take photos is highly prescribed. In many, if not most, tourist sites, photographs may be taken outside but not inside. This is why I have only a few images taken inside museums, galleries and temples. (A few museums are now beginning to understand the promotional advantage of social media, and allow photos taken on phone, but not camera.) Photographs on the train are forbidden, maybe because of the prevalence of ‘upskirting’, but perhaps also because Japanese people prefer to maintain their privacy in this space. Mobile phone calls on trains are also forbidden - what a good idea! (I am sneaky and take images of train interiors while pretending to be photographing out of the window.) However, the streets are saturated with photographs - mainly advertising food, sex (or at least, young girls and young boys), and politics (middle-aged men). It's a highly stylised version of reality.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_tAEigB_aEhgKjNDi2Btex5-fQQhcozyxEJ47VfbHgM3x9OWBoGIB2Ci8TQ_fw-Mp2oVJBQIU5eNFtPo1eO0VQzVOLDQi1FqEwzRcDkTyGmB9EzoqJaOJ1cUTxLg2DgOHTki2dcIepwp/s1600/IMGP2625+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_tAEigB_aEhgKjNDi2Btex5-fQQhcozyxEJ47VfbHgM3x9OWBoGIB2Ci8TQ_fw-Mp2oVJBQIU5eNFtPo1eO0VQzVOLDQi1FqEwzRcDkTyGmB9EzoqJaOJ1cUTxLg2DgOHTki2dcIepwp/s320/IMGP2625+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girls on the street, Sapporo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soft serve ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-A8Q9eW6RVl0MUw6eUqgLujY6uqMyDcLXNpISzX6nA1Fyo_QGrSw2TUyYnODyhZns3D6EnZvwg4ptWVJewGtkLVXiXT1AQBWTh-gAOwMqQ5s7KKnVJgsH9BbCs46oOmzKJ5xqFqgVi6YW/s1600/IMGP3601+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="916" data-original-width="1340" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-A8Q9eW6RVl0MUw6eUqgLujY6uqMyDcLXNpISzX6nA1Fyo_QGrSw2TUyYnODyhZns3D6EnZvwg4ptWVJewGtkLVXiXT1AQBWTh-gAOwMqQ5s7KKnVJgsH9BbCs46oOmzKJ5xqFqgVi6YW/s320/IMGP3601+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girls on the street, Hakodate</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBehA1_FZSGm983J7Yi0m-PR4atj0oXcdvOGQvk-4a9YnjqYUNbeMsvWicRIoe5xC8bAcU-D6cOSAH054jo-3xdm6v-Bl06AtibnvuoplJpfJr9RhH23_nas_8cj1k1wCyNcutQKzjXWew/s1600/IMGP3769+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="943" data-original-width="1483" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBehA1_FZSGm983J7Yi0m-PR4atj0oXcdvOGQvk-4a9YnjqYUNbeMsvWicRIoe5xC8bAcU-D6cOSAH054jo-3xdm6v-Bl06AtibnvuoplJpfJr9RhH23_nas_8cj1k1wCyNcutQKzjXWew/s320/IMGP3769+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seafood, Hakodate</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5bxmAgZGVh7tI3umHQxE5v-vzmWpPWVQBEpd-OFhq_aetXC87seghbnXuS7zdLw6zTD_hmSKvKsd7O9dW4A0PYuEvdwKB6q0F1W9G7CbUmIfJbp1iKdQ2_MJzZJfCZYSZeiffQjSq-772/s1600/IMGP4691+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="927" data-original-width="1434" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5bxmAgZGVh7tI3umHQxE5v-vzmWpPWVQBEpd-OFhq_aetXC87seghbnXuS7zdLw6zTD_hmSKvKsd7O9dW4A0PYuEvdwKB6q0F1W9G7CbUmIfJbp1iKdQ2_MJzZJfCZYSZeiffQjSq-772/s320/IMGP4691+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Would you trust this man? (Hiraizumi)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_VKhjel4JLEF4C9ZjNPO9YUEI2i8fkOf4JH8Uh8Y75g9S7zafgXcXGYPXpqzm2PGW8UFvzccCG7a7t7ZynmXvDXzPNoKSTgpbR1I7alqi-V1KLZFHRcm5XM5Dfsn5PsXwc-GD9DDgH25n/s1600/IMGP5769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_VKhjel4JLEF4C9ZjNPO9YUEI2i8fkOf4JH8Uh8Y75g9S7zafgXcXGYPXpqzm2PGW8UFvzccCG7a7t7ZynmXvDXzPNoKSTgpbR1I7alqi-V1KLZFHRcm5XM5Dfsn5PsXwc-GD9DDgH25n/s320/IMGP5769.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boys on the street, Shibuya</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kUsDrnXvRdGiPzvIzXKcWEh3za362hIlMubQbS1BZeG7DsTOetKU0iGhgS3Pw0Y8AD-3IpjuK7o-_YJjDuhJyDuVkDePT-HRFmkqMsnYU4A8lzij71Fv_w0YQGWtBvdVFgWXfxgbl3Qi/s1600/IMGP6135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kUsDrnXvRdGiPzvIzXKcWEh3za362hIlMubQbS1BZeG7DsTOetKU0iGhgS3Pw0Y8AD-3IpjuK7o-_YJjDuhJyDuVkDePT-HRFmkqMsnYU4A8lzij71Fv_w0YQGWtBvdVFgWXfxgbl3Qi/s320/IMGP6135.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant food, Shinjuku</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-75137722212544060352017-08-22T19:01:00.001+10:002017-08-27T15:08:19.199+10:00Japan: Honshu 2 - Yamagata & Nikko<h4>
19 July - Yamagata</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-WO3nsHVcqYbPFjuCi8h3ZDKywQziZrcu4cUJA6trl8I9qAexC0NrpKalxZn9xuxnY4vlUkgE8Ooi6lr5V7pCQSGvYZDoYCUE8jw1ZW2dOqUE3iuD39Gehm0qoCw6Dwx8pgF-q3ZkcZdQ/s1600/IMGP4957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1061" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-WO3nsHVcqYbPFjuCi8h3ZDKywQziZrcu4cUJA6trl8I9qAexC0NrpKalxZn9xuxnY4vlUkgE8Ooi6lr5V7pCQSGvYZDoYCUE8jw1ZW2dOqUE3iuD39Gehm0qoCw6Dwx8pgF-q3ZkcZdQ/s320/IMGP4957.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely Yamadera</td></tr>
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<b>We leave early from Hiraizumi</b> and arrive in Yamagata at 10.30am. but pickup/check-in for the guest house is not available until 3pm, and it’s too hot to walk or explore the city. Yamagata has NO signs in English, seems Yamagata is not much of a tourist town ... but the girl at the tourist office is very helpful. We hop on a bus to Hirashimazu, suspiciously eyed off by a horde of young children who are not accustomed to seeing 'gaijin'. Hirashimazu is supposedly (Lonely Planet) an enclave of potteries in an outer-town village by the river. We arrive. It’s hot, not a pottery in sight, just a post office. We walk along the river towards the hills - nothing. Back to PO and PO girl tells us that our route was correct but we didn’t walk far enough. <<i>Sigh</i>>. We try again and after 15 minutes find an open general store where we are directed to the ‘brown house’ nearby. There’s a large-ish pottery shop, but no sign of a working pottery, demos from the master or lessons available … we buy a few small bowls (seconds - artisan pottery is so expensive!), and they offer us tea and snacks. But no - we must catch the bus back and head back to town.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpYf-hIWJU40-ShbbIH3h_860-qatxgXjUC6gxY-kqCl_-86Pi8WOYywgBaEDCUWqQ_UMxn8gCQAEbteAnaepKU2uwJCIzP9hPmsUDM6Khysm0tRHT9SV1DRYBSxLw9gkLu0-Fman0bIx/s1600/IMGP4765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpYf-hIWJU40-ShbbIH3h_860-qatxgXjUC6gxY-kqCl_-86Pi8WOYywgBaEDCUWqQ_UMxn8gCQAEbteAnaepKU2uwJCIzP9hPmsUDM6Khysm0tRHT9SV1DRYBSxLw9gkLu0-Fman0bIx/s320/IMGP4765.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Children boarding the bus</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUaFiem9h5jAFshYFyXMqhZebQW8Q7v-C04G68PKYQXxvG2ZiZBKOWPqLMT0qnwv0ZiIxHEPvjoE_W4HzvbAG444byPfzt9vmdONxw_Q6kDP7-LY5ic4HQ5jwi4-Cd2eaFONLZ1hieOJh/s1600/IMGP4811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUaFiem9h5jAFshYFyXMqhZebQW8Q7v-C04G68PKYQXxvG2ZiZBKOWPqLMT0qnwv0ZiIxHEPvjoE_W4HzvbAG444byPfzt9vmdONxw_Q6kDP7-LY5ic4HQ5jwi4-Cd2eaFONLZ1hieOJh/s320/IMGP4811.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Train to Yamadera</td></tr>
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20 July - Yamagata/Yamadera</h4>
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<b>Today is the ‘day of 1000 cuts’</b> according to Chris, who believes that ascending to the Risshaku-ji temple on the mountain-top at Yamadera on such a hot day will be the death of him. We start early and take plenty of water, and I carry the pack. It is a quick (15 minute) and lovely train ride, and the town is quiet and cool when we begin the climb. The lower part of the walk is beautiful and shaded, and the steps are shallow and easy. Every few minutes is a glade with statues, mossy rocks, lanterns and a tiny shrine. It’s gorgeous. We make it to the top in just over an hour, and it’s by now sunny and hot. We buy a little picture book of the travels of <b>Matsuo Basho</b>. A poet and Buddhist who became a pilgrim and promoted Zen Buddhism through his prose and haiku. He is a cult in these parts. Most renowned for ‘<i>The Narrow Road to the Deep North</i>’, he wrote of Yamadera: “<i>Stillness, seeps into the stones, the cry of cicadas</i>”. Of Hiraizumi he wrote: “<i>Summer grass, all that remains of warrior dreams</i>”. But the stillness is now invaded by many more tourists on the ascent, so we hurry back down.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yamadera shrine</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl4zuyOY2zYFnyr0x5RQnKeq-6igTsiLRLe7GWz76vuluDxXyUWJqj7rKR1wvIdQJT07AX16V46dZy54v2keY-t51WmAjgEErM2C_Ez_gOZTZ3eWXEh7k6CgQdxqMg5NEqo10opGa44dyQ/s1600/IMGP4826+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl4zuyOY2zYFnyr0x5RQnKeq-6igTsiLRLe7GWz76vuluDxXyUWJqj7rKR1wvIdQJT07AX16V46dZy54v2keY-t51WmAjgEErM2C_Ez_gOZTZ3eWXEh7k6CgQdxqMg5NEqo10opGa44dyQ/s320/IMGP4826+copy.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matsuo Basho, cult poet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFH0OU5MMyd4wicPw5YAUJbMRY30dy8Es6famMFEywHw-dTFoCMXADqHKc3ZAxvFN_s_W7q7MEnIVvO-6dTSTIDloiL6kzoretXVoUrGg_a30L0NtNEFjuDqDn-S0wSGbQTwSYwa6HDNA8/s1600/IMGP4877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1133" data-original-width="1600" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFH0OU5MMyd4wicPw5YAUJbMRY30dy8Es6famMFEywHw-dTFoCMXADqHKc3ZAxvFN_s_W7q7MEnIVvO-6dTSTIDloiL6kzoretXVoUrGg_a30L0NtNEFjuDqDn-S0wSGbQTwSYwa6HDNA8/s320/IMGP4877.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intrepid climbers, another Yamadera shrine</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Yamadera from the top</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgME15ewaU0N0T-tOi18bYol5CZuS1lpTX7LKPbJClKglRmfVCu5dZNHJhwWBxvrgCi9Q3dtEDbrokP7t51D9yTxfKyAStoKWXqJTFQCL4my_ICX328L2NSEmtCRwze4R_IdltefefvMZrK/s1600/IMGP4999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1061" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgME15ewaU0N0T-tOi18bYol5CZuS1lpTX7LKPbJClKglRmfVCu5dZNHJhwWBxvrgCi9Q3dtEDbrokP7t51D9yTxfKyAStoKWXqJTFQCL4my_ICX328L2NSEmtCRwze4R_IdltefefvMZrK/s320/IMGP4999.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basho again ...</td></tr>
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I have been hankering for a sushi picnic, since missing out in Hakodate, so we go to ‘Family Mart’ to pick some up, but the choice is not so good. Anyway, it’s now very hot, so we opt for the cool of a soba noodle place at the station. It’s air-conditioned, and the soup is good, with lovely chewy noodles. Now - walk home via the ‘City Museum,’ located in an old weatherboard palace of a building that used to be a hospital (Miyazaki again!). But it’s too hot to really enjoy the weird collection of exhibits (old hospital machinery and instruments, woodblock prints illustrating various ailments including pregnancy), so we soon melt off home. When we get back to the guest house, a sizeable choir is practising their harmonies in the kitchen/dining room. Gorgeous!</div>
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We ask advice about a restaurant for dinner, and have three otions: nearby rice bowl place, slightly more distant a ‘bit dirty’ downmarket fish place, and further again, a more upmarket ‘typical Yamagata’ restaurant. We try for the fish place - it’s upstairs at a shabby old fishmonger’s shop, and is probably great, but the host has no English, or a menu, so (to his relief I expect) we thank him and leave. The ‘upmarket’ place is not far, so there we go. It’s in a converted warehouse, restored in a retro kind of way, cool and with dark wood trims and furniture, and the set price is reasonable (about Y1800 - $22). The food is beautifully presented - bits of sushi, pickles, noodles, soup, fish and meat on various lovely plates - a grazer’s dream. But the atmosphere’s a bit lacking: we are the only customers in the ‘western’ room, and the lights are a bit too bright.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu65HidCA6doNHkXOtADf8GfgufHU_dGghDfZvCopY62_uW6exru6fABqIE6Ul2t3nhjPG3kvlki6c9d5VSGj6ooQ6s24phngA2FJ863YKLCN2SD-uHveZ1HzHzsxCTUbSlnbWgAh-8V9V/s1600/IMGP4790+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu65HidCA6doNHkXOtADf8GfgufHU_dGghDfZvCopY62_uW6exru6fABqIE6Ul2t3nhjPG3kvlki6c9d5VSGj6ooQ6s24phngA2FJ863YKLCN2SD-uHveZ1HzHzsxCTUbSlnbWgAh-8V9V/s320/IMGP4790+copy.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miyazaki style museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medical woodblock print</td></tr>
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21 July - Yamagata-Nikko</h4>
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A lift to the station - it’s a nice walk, but hot with luggage - and wait for the train. Chris manages to cause a stir when he presses the wrong button in the toilet and alerts security. Those Japanese toilets ... (also see <a href="http://belinda-ann.blogspot.com.au/2017/08/japan-retro-and-ott.html">Japan OTT</a>).</div>
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In Nikko, I quickly begin to wonder - ‘Are we still in Japan?’. The guesthouse has not answered my email about providing a shuttle from the station, and in the sister guesthouse by the station I am told, ‘Only between 3pm and 5pm’. ‘But it is after 3pm’. ‘Ah ok, I’ll call him’. 45 minutes later we are still waiting. </div>
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We have been spoiled in northern Japan, where we are often the only western tourists in sight and have been treated as special. Here in Nikko there is a profusion of Western and other non-Japanese visitors, and much architecture is also quite European, it feels quite un-Japanesey.</div>
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Finally at the guesthouse, it is in a pretty, slightly remote spot, only 15 minutes walk to town, but quite steep. After delivering our luggage and checking in, we trot back down the hill to shop and explore. At least the weather here is slightly cooler, and damp. Town is unremarkable, except that it feels more of a tourist hub than anywhere else we have been. It’s day-trip distance from Tokyo, so not surprising really. We buy some supplies (sake, beer, and addictive squid crackers) and on the way back up stop at a park shelter with atmospheric mountain views.</div>
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Because the guesthouse is out of town we have ordered dinner to eat in. The place is rather shabby, and a bit grubby (so un-Japanese!), but dinner is fine - grilled salmon with cabbage salad, rice and soup.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ77LzVjuUZvEKaCEibn1nloE8BIKDzKSoDIDuZyZiYSBPxQqG6Grt7nbAWU9wfiWUzQm9jOKIJZ-Gu-bYxmPnWCjQ8G3bjeIXeuGK46lc7oyNMe95x1xg1r7w3blXBlkj_ef2p34RhhIe/s1600/IMGP5268+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ77LzVjuUZvEKaCEibn1nloE8BIKDzKSoDIDuZyZiYSBPxQqG6Grt7nbAWU9wfiWUzQm9jOKIJZ-Gu-bYxmPnWCjQ8G3bjeIXeuGK46lc7oyNMe95x1xg1r7w3blXBlkj_ef2p34RhhIe/s320/IMGP5268+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain views near guest house </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfies at Shinkyo Bridge, Nikko</td></tr>
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<h4>
22 July - Nikko</h4>
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Some places exceed expectations, other disappoint. Nikko is the latter.</div>
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How annoying that we ended up here on a Saturday - the place will be packed! So we try to set out early to the temple sites, hampered by the fact that breakfast is not served until 8am. We hurry through breakfast and down to the bus stop, arriving at the temples just after 9am. It’s not too bad yet. I try to buy the recommended ‘combination ticket’ for the best value, but it’s no longer available. So we get a ticket that covers two of the half-dozen sites Taiyuin and Rinno-ji. The first is a small unostentatious temple with some lovely woodcarving, and set in a garden with hosts of stone lanterns. Much of the garden is unfortunately screened off as they are pruning the pine trees today. I complain to the ticket seller, as we had not been warned that so much of the site would be inaccessible. But the laugh is on me when we reach Rinno-ji. It took a while to find it - because it is being reconstructed inside a giant warehouse, and most of it cannot be accessed. There’s a fenced off view into the front chamber, than some temporary corridors housing some of the temple treasures. Not what we paid for, and I complain more loudly this time.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fmDdwQClCSX3CCf6lN5uNwH6hKrtEggbkosPmYOmviRLqAYrRF-4AsQl5D71MC7BMhpbIzRkSrmWlXjUpJQ9xesUN7BljHRv70VcugmmV5WAz5kwD6hvEAmUqOdSUAGwqhsSuXvbH2Q0/s1600/IMGP5155+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fmDdwQClCSX3CCf6lN5uNwH6hKrtEggbkosPmYOmviRLqAYrRF-4AsQl5D71MC7BMhpbIzRkSrmWlXjUpJQ9xesUN7BljHRv70VcugmmV5WAz5kwD6hvEAmUqOdSUAGwqhsSuXvbH2Q0/s320/IMGP5155+copy.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The lovely side of Nikko</td></tr>
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Meanwhile the crowd for the main shrine, Tosho-gu, is getting larger, queuing in the sun. So - let’s head for the art gallery - a tried and true strategy to avoid tourist crowds. Following the signs, the gallery we find (Nikko Toshogu Museum) is in a brand new building (yes, Lonely Planet says that they have a new gallery building). It is quite expensive but cool and airy, so in we go. But soon I realise it’s a different museum entirely from the one I expected, focusing on the history of the family who built the shrine. Still, it’s informative and a nice place to spend time away from the hordes. Emerging at lunchtime into the heat, the crowds are even more crazy. We now find the road to the old gallery (Nikko Toshogu Art Museum) and it is almost deserted. The gallery is, after all, still in a lovely old cedar mansion, the former head office of the shrine, with traditional garden. It has beautiful examples of traditional and a few more contemporary screen and door paintings. It's quiet and serene, aah - feel as if I’m back in Japan.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nikko tourists</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ePUi0F4c4Adh5FyIIr6akMQfIiD8KOFKh5Iphx7O88vg_WDfI7siLPizUkhCBoxo-WjcbVJi80AouYbRLKGEq6jQceh5T2HUjV3nYdVcyGrDmHDWQI3vOc6fFBpyzmZy2bauw6aSUm42/s1600/IMGP5165+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ePUi0F4c4Adh5FyIIr6akMQfIiD8KOFKh5Iphx7O88vg_WDfI7siLPizUkhCBoxo-WjcbVJi80AouYbRLKGEq6jQceh5T2HUjV3nYdVcyGrDmHDWQI3vOc6fFBpyzmZy2bauw6aSUm42/s320/IMGP5165+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old-style Art Gallery with old-style visitor</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamafpkvjB3vj0-Rg3vK-LWKLJP5KOflmdcLRf8Cbp5Gw1XZfkjL804zfk7CkgaoEwnsl0FBhvL3PyY5ZxzQgw6OPsYGUpKVXFmFlW4V0MDEgAl5VHhYOdnFlWcyu1QCmhF-odyQfXoD6B/s1600/IMGP5176+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamafpkvjB3vj0-Rg3vK-LWKLJP5KOflmdcLRf8Cbp5Gw1XZfkjL804zfk7CkgaoEwnsl0FBhvL3PyY5ZxzQgw6OPsYGUpKVXFmFlW4V0MDEgAl5VHhYOdnFlWcyu1QCmhF-odyQfXoD6B/s320/IMGP5176+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Art Gallery garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nNtl4F1otyMXOSUi3ksrjdF_Bz-huqTZQrM08YRINO0HxrGhQbYc0wImkahTE4phDPAB-JBkb8fEb_sPJRvD0JSrirFT_4elke9tBcD_A_1F6INEWXmcxxVi2yCNtFUaMR2NloQhV15l/s1600/IMGP5248+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="984" data-original-width="1481" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nNtl4F1otyMXOSUi3ksrjdF_Bz-huqTZQrM08YRINO0HxrGhQbYc0wImkahTE4phDPAB-JBkb8fEb_sPJRvD0JSrirFT_4elke9tBcD_A_1F6INEWXmcxxVi2yCNtFUaMR2NloQhV15l/s320/IMGP5248+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Door painting in Imperial residence</td></tr>
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So we leave from the shrine area and head for less-touristed parts along the river - a large park and the Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa. Exploring a small temple along the way, just as we arrive at the park, the rain pours down. Aagh, no umbrella! But there’s a noodle shop! No, closed (but they do give us an umbrella). Then we spy a tea room! Sorry, closed. It’s not even 4pm. When we find the Imperial residence, it is still raining, so we might as well go in, it’s open for another hour. Traditional Japanese architecture is so soothing, we wander around the almost empty house and garden, with solicitous attendants offering snippets of information on the way. Definitely back in Japan!</div>
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It’s been an expensive (around $80 in entrance fees) and somewhat frustrating day, but we end it looking at the gorgeous mountain setting as we stop for a drink on our way back up the hill. In spite of the beauty, tourist-infested Nikko has not endeared itself.</div>
belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-61350914092825586712017-08-21T15:59:00.003+10:002017-08-22T16:18:16.820+10:00Japan: Map and trainsI have been asked for a map to illustrate our route - so here is one with our main connections from Hokkaido to Fuji, and some of the locations marked that we visited. <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pNTm1NjQpqJA-CMqgTqw4nupF4Y&usp=sharing" target="_blank">Click to see in Google maps</a>.<br />
How did we travel? almost exclusively by train.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pNTm1NjQpqJA-CMqgTqw4nupF4Y&usp=sharing" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="929" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjt5cFbiclLdlqi8khPLL9HR-Gwi-8St9penxCjmSZmdyguNDrXen7IlvFN8uWBYNPET09qMUqWS-em361DROmpkCkc_u9wrsIPwxncb7WMU2T25cf_lQV-3DIXDN4Jf21StlDTmI9uVN/s640/japan_map_sm.jpg" width="369" /></a></div>
<h4>
TRAINS</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ85oXneyUUMCy_6MszYTsliEwqj1D4oJyIqrXOiBkyNk84R9Q5hGGFR__0jf2-fHh242aNXrNppC6cYVkgQYFvBL8_VJNZEpN0lwkfaKM9W-Aq1crLN5xDosxTj9_Lf5aD1rP4rqO2I3u/s1600/IMGP3058+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ85oXneyUUMCy_6MszYTsliEwqj1D4oJyIqrXOiBkyNk84R9Q5hGGFR__0jf2-fHh242aNXrNppC6cYVkgQYFvBL8_VJNZEpN0lwkfaKM9W-Aq1crLN5xDosxTj9_Lf5aD1rP4rqO2I3u/s320/IMGP3058+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the train ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigdJ_TCYnRQHhmixohGucOK6tTenAjJpN-Ni-Kdm1YZ3RbaXHbt6qKj7uOXYM-v7e419Uq3vLpk_gygyQ45gAiehJ7oURP6TaejCLnmO4nMjBgpFxkl_IwzN0SYAMxj4olosZzuppGjdv7/s1600/IMGP3060+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1354" data-original-width="940" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigdJ_TCYnRQHhmixohGucOK6tTenAjJpN-Ni-Kdm1YZ3RbaXHbt6qKj7uOXYM-v7e419Uq3vLpk_gygyQ45gAiehJ7oURP6TaejCLnmO4nMjBgpFxkl_IwzN0SYAMxj4olosZzuppGjdv7/s320/IMGP3060+copy.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the train 2</td></tr>
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Travelling in Japan must be done by train, unless in remote areas where services dwindle. For us, we do so even in remote areas, as Chris is not interested in driving in foreign places - even though they do drive on the left here! Fortunately the trains are fabulous - clean, fast, frequent and as regular as clockwork. With a railpass we even get to travel on the expensive Shinkansen (bullet train), but I prefer the inter city express trains, that have bigger windows, and still travel quite fast enough. I already talked about the very lovely eating-on-trains tradition, but did I mention the sleeping-on-trains tradition? A lot. Even on the subway.<br />
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Then there are the local trains, no reservations, and usually filled with schoolkids, salarymen, and women with shopping. They are efficient but not high tech - in fact in common with much of Japan, they are distinctly retro in style. This is when things slow down and it’s possible to take a few photos. The slowest train of all was the one from Osuki to Mt Fuji (Kawaguchiko) - almost one hour to travel 27 km! Very rustic …<br />
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Can’t finish with trains without mentioning <a href="http://www.hyperdia.com/" target="_blank">Hyperdia</a>, the amazing app that lets you plan train routes - with all times, connections and often even platforms listed. It even works on the Tokyo train/subway system - that is another kettle of fish (or can of worms …).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rustic train and station - Takikawa in Hokkaido</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the (slow) train</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFK4QuRKdyApycTQ1UnsbkyLmNi3wuzAqyufEdAjiHclXXOWXwsr0E-yuo8ePW5HSoLH9JFqnsCO2Dh9Z5FfN-WRGgQFQ6Bv2dGXY8pC8jjLL-GBldARTJfw4U__eisgqIBSENa2tuPor1/s1600/IMGP4404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFK4QuRKdyApycTQ1UnsbkyLmNi3wuzAqyufEdAjiHclXXOWXwsr0E-yuo8ePW5HSoLH9JFqnsCO2Dh9Z5FfN-WRGgQFQ6Bv2dGXY8pC8jjLL-GBldARTJfw4U__eisgqIBSENa2tuPor1/s320/IMGP4404.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeping ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0HYpuyD2R4KX6vEX4LsTeEmsXGL8xFBfNNKW9FV3XOgVfShowEbbjU8YiNNQW1R1y7-lkN04BFPWFIXAptkfRaIzfwsmOC02HDaFPPNlYePEvsrJFMQ0pqnG4qlbyZeczTBnvYkB47E1x/s1600/IMGP4743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0HYpuyD2R4KX6vEX4LsTeEmsXGL8xFBfNNKW9FV3XOgVfShowEbbjU8YiNNQW1R1y7-lkN04BFPWFIXAptkfRaIzfwsmOC02HDaFPPNlYePEvsrJFMQ0pqnG4qlbyZeczTBnvYkB47E1x/s320/IMGP4743.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Shinkansen cometh ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Qt4r3X_gLnA3o6LgBTkH5v7YOk8kY3uhl1xBVxkoAFy36Hjl0NGCZGhsDRRikGcHzG3EYzu8GltrdrM4RrEhXBXUx1aidgcAtpEk1AiB_z_XmFmZbpZWOygMSzDlrUvznFwmeAI9KKHN/s1600/IMGP4810+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="995" data-original-width="1500" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Qt4r3X_gLnA3o6LgBTkH5v7YOk8kY3uhl1xBVxkoAFy36Hjl0NGCZGhsDRRikGcHzG3EYzu8GltrdrM4RrEhXBXUx1aidgcAtpEk1AiB_z_XmFmZbpZWOygMSzDlrUvznFwmeAI9KKHN/s320/IMGP4810+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the station - Yamagata</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7-Xe7IZKoRQ_Rcrqfv2bJafOEPqg0vRQk1KoHofXK7QlplORqdFtzc3v9rckbWH7Tg8GCjaNIwgFCDRJOQpHEiu838x8mBxeUnWkUSalzQ1Q57iYNYq1x4qzXQJ1JNTqM0W-YMKu7BwW/s1600/IMGP5059+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7-Xe7IZKoRQ_Rcrqfv2bJafOEPqg0vRQk1KoHofXK7QlplORqdFtzc3v9rckbWH7Tg8GCjaNIwgFCDRJOQpHEiu838x8mBxeUnWkUSalzQ1Q57iYNYq1x4qzXQJ1JNTqM0W-YMKu7BwW/s320/IMGP5059+copy.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local train to Nikko</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXIGOUKYkPrP-yf1Ul-SCG6wyGKuxPi_zV5kfSJugiMyfpxbxZK0KS3RK19ueNuKwHa1c78ALsL3WRPwqJGgya5c57iB7tEQSd0Oj-GQO_5J8BxEHtJqe6vXAa5AOU9kos1BnnnMvRDar/s1600/IMGP5325+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXIGOUKYkPrP-yf1Ul-SCG6wyGKuxPi_zV5kfSJugiMyfpxbxZK0KS3RK19ueNuKwHa1c78ALsL3WRPwqJGgya5c57iB7tEQSd0Oj-GQO_5J8BxEHtJqe6vXAa5AOU9kos1BnnnMvRDar/s320/IMGP5325+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating on the train</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefsR9qORw5cWdzTr6-hjVwn8kLB0BKCjdVRcWIXp3kQscVi3OfM111sp5C5gtpkRvmrw76Y4dLkjlZ1EvVzX1nHAn75T2KoZmjE6PGs2m8Rop-kZnIJ1vEnQl38FerzxC8ZObPU0Yayh7/s1600/IMGP5333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefsR9qORw5cWdzTr6-hjVwn8kLB0BKCjdVRcWIXp3kQscVi3OfM111sp5C5gtpkRvmrw76Y4dLkjlZ1EvVzX1nHAn75T2KoZmjE6PGs2m8Rop-kZnIJ1vEnQl38FerzxC8ZObPU0Yayh7/s320/IMGP5333.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Station on the local Fuji line</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-68001121883238367522017-08-19T17:14:00.001+10:002017-08-19T17:14:08.542+10:00Breakfast, stamps and flowers ...<h4>
JAPANESE BREAKFAST</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK61mHz77SR-y4MNz0D5Twjf8gRBqwB7YofkIjaALDD75yJXEbwEC77AIaS4XWMTDMZ_RUFNQyQakBcU7FSnhe-UiCObxSmKl6oITT65oytuciUFsFyGEfgW7EqcfU0MEY1ydAMFijGOOe/s1600/IMGP4364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK61mHz77SR-y4MNz0D5Twjf8gRBqwB7YofkIjaALDD75yJXEbwEC77AIaS4XWMTDMZ_RUFNQyQakBcU7FSnhe-UiCObxSmKl6oITT65oytuciUFsFyGEfgW7EqcfU0MEY1ydAMFijGOOe/s320/IMGP4364.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tazawako breakfast</td></tr>
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OK, more about food. Japanese breakfast to be specific. Which consists of many small plates of things - usually some fish (often smoked or dried, like kippers), always soup and rice, some vegetables or even salad, maybe a little fruit, and definitely pickles. Maybe omelette (which is sweet), or an ‘onsen egg’ (poached in warm water so it is just slightly cooked), or even raw egg. The thing is - it’s basically lean protein (fish, egg) with vegetables, so very healthy, and a great start to the day. We have had some really lovely breakfasts, some a bit ordinary, I love them all, Chris is not so keen on the salad for breakfast, or the dried fish. The only dish I can’t quite love is ‘natto’, a fermented bean dish that’s unbelievable slimy (and apparently amazingly good for you). The best breakfast? Maybe Tazawako, where it was so fresh and lovely, with steamed vegetables, prawn and scallop, onsen egg, salad, yoghurt with berries. But I also loved Dormy Inn, where it was a buffet with so many options, I got to try lots of things, such as octopus fritters, and nori-wrapped apricots, and pickled plums. If I could have just one Japanese meal a day I think it would be breakfast.<br />
<i>(Disclaimer - I am really slack at photographing food! A hopeless foodie really).</i><br />
<h4>
SOUVENIR STAMPS</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1w0oV9jP2eZVTvtF5nbp5EOQqZGLg_oNNuvZyV-ysr0jQhlGtIZBFw7QvVQISmfLl0GvJE1KqQPcR8I9Z163_SoKjoVRGt-L6AwhNEjXbbA7Eal627N65VglhZv97raVEtdFUIYIAkng/s1600/stamps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1023" data-original-width="1489" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1w0oV9jP2eZVTvtF5nbp5EOQqZGLg_oNNuvZyV-ysr0jQhlGtIZBFw7QvVQISmfLl0GvJE1KqQPcR8I9Z163_SoKjoVRGt-L6AwhNEjXbbA7Eal627N65VglhZv97raVEtdFUIYIAkng/s320/stamps.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stamps! Hirosaki and Yamagata</td></tr>
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It’s an old fashioned kind of thing, but collecting stamps (that is, inked designs that are pressed onto a book, or commemorative sheet of paper) is huge in Japan. The idea is to have sets of stamps for a particular region, or season, but mine are quite ad hoc, just collected wherever I happen to see a stamp and pad. Often at train stations, sometimes museums, or at particular tourist sites, they are quaint, and a bit cheesy and I love them. Unless the inkpad has dried out! Grrr.<br />
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<h4>
SUMMER FLOWERS AND GARDENS</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKTniR_yacX01SZAOC6X4P8thd3UMud08BkSFhaurGdfRZD72Z-IJm_GQy6o_CtI6N9QGDr2jsRcV92gY43fVTgvHWvvqol5HOoIL5ttF3AZIfYKIxyRTJcMaZF4kchnpyQz-jIMg3Tuh/s1600/IMGP5552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1018" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKTniR_yacX01SZAOC6X4P8thd3UMud08BkSFhaurGdfRZD72Z-IJm_GQy6o_CtI6N9QGDr2jsRcV92gY43fVTgvHWvvqol5HOoIL5ttF3AZIfYKIxyRTJcMaZF4kchnpyQz-jIMg3Tuh/s320/IMGP5552.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Japanese lacecap hydrangea</td></tr>
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So we have missed the blossom season, and the autumn leaves are yet to come. The rainy season in June washes away many of the spring blossoms, but summer has some floral pleasures of its own. Hydrangeas are ubiquitous, and flower copiously, even growing wild. There is a particular Japanese ‘lacecap’ variant that is particularly pretty. Large scented lilies are also seen everywhere, and also grow in profusion in the wild, although a display near Mt Fuji was particularly stunning. Iris are very frequently planted in and around water in huge beds in traditional gardens, but we are at the end of the season and the flowers are now a little sparse. Lotus is often a feature of temple gardens, growing so large I feel as if I have been shrunk in size. Amazing large lakes full in Ueno Park (Tokyo). Japanese, though living in an urbanised environment, adore nature and will visit parks and gardens, as well as cultivate their own gardens, assiduously. In the northern parts, where snow covers the ground for a large part of the year, summer water is plentiful, and great vegetable garden areas are cultivated between buildings even in built up areas. And even rice fields!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuPLyUvNB_5VsrX7WWxxHMREW7Fu1_wPtaey3TaFWqEwD6N93OVJseMshPHPUxwmzz5Chm0ssGyzmjozjpD0qURgsi9rVUf1rv2EqjXAakuPD7Q8bateMsLIrRNzgJZDQiv7-vKYEj6PT0/s1600/IMGP5351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuPLyUvNB_5VsrX7WWxxHMREW7Fu1_wPtaey3TaFWqEwD6N93OVJseMshPHPUxwmzz5Chm0ssGyzmjozjpD0qURgsi9rVUf1rv2EqjXAakuPD7Q8bateMsLIrRNzgJZDQiv7-vKYEj6PT0/s320/IMGP5351.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lilies at Oishi Park (Mt Fuji)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihin8K3IytjOQWVJLOF1BB_druRVxXjIQVCtu3XtAzUQ2DTD5wLdqUzxEkLAodsv73oFzh8xKq2c1PKOPd5kr-BUWQnzQ7ESf6R_lzV9JxzRJswy-kjqKp5x_KXWhcCtVDAU6_0HbnkKFe/s1600/IMGP5658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihin8K3IytjOQWVJLOF1BB_druRVxXjIQVCtu3XtAzUQ2DTD5wLdqUzxEkLAodsv73oFzh8xKq2c1PKOPd5kr-BUWQnzQ7ESf6R_lzV9JxzRJswy-kjqKp5x_KXWhcCtVDAU6_0HbnkKFe/s320/IMGP5658.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rice paddy - somewhere between Fuji and Tokyo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik7sDycA3vqIEIuGhqJBhFh3QUV5lWb0T4_B-OuV-RQYKZF4eYmhR-24hxv5PuJnyz7i1UB5dONw3rdhakMb66rtc0eOwPk1GOEkQewHRqtZCFnyWMfgjiObx2U9cywbtqXlBkiTrkdYP8/s1600/IMGP5664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik7sDycA3vqIEIuGhqJBhFh3QUV5lWb0T4_B-OuV-RQYKZF4eYmhR-24hxv5PuJnyz7i1UB5dONw3rdhakMb66rtc0eOwPk1GOEkQewHRqtZCFnyWMfgjiObx2U9cywbtqXlBkiTrkdYP8/s320/IMGP5664.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vegetable garden - as above</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJueHdobB03IDfn5_1YS-8gHUujzQQEALOR7rzua_1T3tvX5-7Ei6uDMW2G7oQss7V-6fc-mgm2yx1sOdqDihmDtY1C3XvspkJBRz7jOh0sIDXedd31FoXZ-dzV78ZNTJMYvink9QZ3cUK/s1600/IMGP5830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJueHdobB03IDfn5_1YS-8gHUujzQQEALOR7rzua_1T3tvX5-7Ei6uDMW2G7oQss7V-6fc-mgm2yx1sOdqDihmDtY1C3XvspkJBRz7jOh0sIDXedd31FoXZ-dzV78ZNTJMYvink9QZ3cUK/s320/IMGP5830.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake of lotus - Ueno Park, Tokyo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1gYLOF3aYhj1KtbE18ONh1bWq5LtwKpNSnaOl6Ls8_6LKeZMIcj0XskcsrhLGDxPg-19lnMia7iWW6NEPfcPthlYNUnIcv4syavYI1eKjGg_FQhC6i8VCxQAd5Q4iMPEDl9DJj3v2iU7/s1600/IMGP5522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1536" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1gYLOF3aYhj1KtbE18ONh1bWq5LtwKpNSnaOl6Ls8_6LKeZMIcj0XskcsrhLGDxPg-19lnMia7iWW6NEPfcPthlYNUnIcv4syavYI1eKjGg_FQhC6i8VCxQAd5Q4iMPEDl9DJj3v2iU7/s320/IMGP5522.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild lilies</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-69320258232515037802017-08-19T14:40:00.000+10:002017-08-27T13:13:40.058+10:00Japan: Honshu 1 - Hirosaki to Hiraizumi<h4>
13 July - Hirosaki</h4>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8prqFNdUuK7a2_fEHySVygpeA0sc9gE5G-FCuVp6FVQPXJ9DhIdJSCyJ_jHMPODcu7QNjlWHyVNb5UfJMN6HjJSY04cbQv27LImaRyA_gpWdl-YFPZQqvLu-j9YFhYBCs2_mo0AoCsVjO/s1600/IMGP4054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8prqFNdUuK7a2_fEHySVygpeA0sc9gE5G-FCuVp6FVQPXJ9DhIdJSCyJ_jHMPODcu7QNjlWHyVNb5UfJMN6HjJSY04cbQv27LImaRyA_gpWdl-YFPZQqvLu-j9YFhYBCs2_mo0AoCsVjO/s320/IMGP4054.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hirosaki Park and castle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihz-P4TPYBNpFGpDxEB7L0rN4BQCmkgtR1aHFfZ6wHXoCfN2m9Pr1HflZw1KAAwyp4gJmfSeEn17oWpNb4QeD-3s4GhkRaL0LIiOdpnYHaFP0ciKVMhAtP7GzYl-_YsP2TPSTFkaQeft35/s1600/IMGP4282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihz-P4TPYBNpFGpDxEB7L0rN4BQCmkgtR1aHFfZ6wHXoCfN2m9Pr1HflZw1KAAwyp4gJmfSeEn17oWpNb4QeD-3s4GhkRaL0LIiOdpnYHaFP0ciKVMhAtP7GzYl-_YsP2TPSTFkaQeft35/s320/IMGP4282.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hirosaki izakaya</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSUrJk4I3nNFOxu0V88bgkWC6Y9TNWILP0DgnkCQ9exrbLI6PuyepAq5V1uhCB9bWLTEsktY3EDadOiDH5RCV6sBCCe81tzQTBKpgF8YxWXcC6NaSJ3Dt1c1GmWcG3tQl66gVE-cpgOgPT/s1600/IMGP4331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSUrJk4I3nNFOxu0V88bgkWC6Y9TNWILP0DgnkCQ9exrbLI6PuyepAq5V1uhCB9bWLTEsktY3EDadOiDH5RCV6sBCCe81tzQTBKpgF8YxWXcC6NaSJ3Dt1c1GmWcG3tQl66gVE-cpgOgPT/s320/IMGP4331.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hirosaki downtown</td></tr>
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At Hirosaki, first stop in Honshu, the main attraction is a large local park with historic castle tower and botanic garden. Here we are staying at Dormy Inn, a Travelodge-type chain of hotels, but very Japanese. It’s as bland as could be, but in Japan all is oriented to personal comfort - there are slippers, pyjamas (in lieu of the traditional yukata), and a very nice rooftop onsen. The buffet breakfast is fabulous, and there is free ramen in the evening, all for the price of a cheap guest house (about $125/night). Dormy Inn is quite close to the park, and also close to the downtown area full of bars and restaurants. After a brief walk in the park we find a little yakitori joint where they seem quite thrilled to have gaijin tourists. It’s as basic as they come, we have to point to the skewers we want, but the chicken livers are delicious!</div>
<h4>
14 July - Hirosaki</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN02QSz7W06yjdBAFPcLrdruYOBrUK7iB0Y-OhrGrFSG_LnAPGsYJNCXaOw0E0Y0sMw8EMOUwYdnz_ZtV5K9kAvDQopSpP43EIZmp-MVala5NiaW7YIxxEed1eLF_n3XZWE8Y50E46yJx2/s320/IMGP4115.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hirosaki Castle tower</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN02QSz7W06yjdBAFPcLrdruYOBrUK7iB0Y-OhrGrFSG_LnAPGsYJNCXaOw0E0Y0sMw8EMOUwYdnz_ZtV5K9kAvDQopSpP43EIZmp-MVala5NiaW7YIxxEed1eLF_n3XZWE8Y50E46yJx2/s1600/IMGP4115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
So it’s hot. Damn it’s hot! The heatwave continues and 34C is forecast today. We climb the castle tower, skip between shady spots at the Botanic Garden, lunch in a beautiful old European-style tearoom at the Fujita Memorial garden, it’s cool and the food is good - smoked salmon buckwheat crepe, apple pie, apple juice (Hirosaki is Apple city!). The garden is gorgeous too - if only we could see it in a drizzly mist instead!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VQV8HbOo2xdOAPVWR5OyuCknTqQlIuD82UIpMeXc5WFxbDdlZxeE48WmKzF7LbykpTo1EtvK_9KmjOC6oVjTGsO80zvHKNbAct2MkOoO5XEgpwgHEkMJIeaTF3zCN9AbufVmGYiASqEZ/s1600/IMGP4261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VQV8HbOo2xdOAPVWR5OyuCknTqQlIuD82UIpMeXc5WFxbDdlZxeE48WmKzF7LbykpTo1EtvK_9KmjOC6oVjTGsO80zvHKNbAct2MkOoO5XEgpwgHEkMJIeaTF3zCN9AbufVmGYiASqEZ/s320/IMGP4261.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fujita garden 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEimuj-ppBULc75Og5OFz9kq5GJ1meZVmCzrf7RUcwTQMQnGu9sgLcih6-DSbu1nduyxVRo8Py18kKKWWV8bhVRPx-MelcgDIofDPmjOQHCaFQGPOm_ZBTEXt6jgUFOocrL5fuLbqV8q8s/s1600/IMGP4172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEimuj-ppBULc75Og5OFz9kq5GJ1meZVmCzrf7RUcwTQMQnGu9sgLcih6-DSbu1nduyxVRo8Py18kKKWWV8bhVRPx-MelcgDIofDPmjOQHCaFQGPOm_ZBTEXt6jgUFOocrL5fuLbqV8q8s/s320/IMGP4172.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fujita garden 2</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYqENHjd9rvXpUk7BuF54_I8adwn1kWkMIHulT173-AEictGgSu65dWSe_jJUdOpG-A2aCNnAfVhwZdmCW2WtlWlFDEWkj-WWqQzCF6EQGPjrV9qdKiPZL6NsWRDD_mZ2ehcEe40Nps4R/s1600/IMGP4200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYqENHjd9rvXpUk7BuF54_I8adwn1kWkMIHulT173-AEictGgSu65dWSe_jJUdOpG-A2aCNnAfVhwZdmCW2WtlWlFDEWkj-WWqQzCF6EQGPjrV9qdKiPZL6NsWRDD_mZ2ehcEe40Nps4R/s320/IMGP4200.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fujita garden tearoom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-LrmzfkchK4pXFsa9JZVADG-tvDi9aSKn9duoNcxjaP0a_R4xvhYXYfn7bUhiBV4qOHwv_h5X_AS44GrLwOYBpV5AYwGrO8WaKaoTZp9QlqCLnzbjUunq6LEsETyRjk0AWuA6o-rWHIN/s1600/IMGP4137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-LrmzfkchK4pXFsa9JZVADG-tvDi9aSKn9duoNcxjaP0a_R4xvhYXYfn7bUhiBV4qOHwv_h5X_AS44GrLwOYBpV5AYwGrO8WaKaoTZp9QlqCLnzbjUunq6LEsETyRjk0AWuA6o-rWHIN/s320/IMGP4137.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing dress-up in Hirosaki Park</td></tr>
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After the garden, back to Dormy Inn for onsen and siesta - aaaah. For dinner tonight, we check out a small food court recommended by the Rough Guide. We manage to locate the ‘Home Cooking’ shop, run by mother and daughter. They and patrons are in a frivolous Friday night mood, and happy to indulge a couple of poor gaijin, thought there is not two words of English between them, nor two words of Japanese between us. We eat edamame, tempura corn, scallops in egg, squid fritters, and a weird dried cod/raw egg dish. Other customers insist that we try their food, and top up our sake glasses. It’s all a lot of fun and quite yummy and costs us about $20 each.<br />
Next - we head to Tazawa-ko, where the forecast is cooler, and wet. Phew.<br />
<h4>
15 July - Tazawa-ko</h4>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-xeUS8l_mgh5phB8NY4aongVvyXFsTDCX8aG7dncNB_T8eLqm56cLaIWFL6sIM1lj_uHvMNOHY508zKDpXFnk7P1-41h8k2wLen_mLAYUwH5hA7y9hi3rtzxWHER6sNqiyuR2k1l1Mubv/s1600/IMGP4353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="991" data-original-width="1496" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-xeUS8l_mgh5phB8NY4aongVvyXFsTDCX8aG7dncNB_T8eLqm56cLaIWFL6sIM1lj_uHvMNOHY508zKDpXFnk7P1-41h8k2wLen_mLAYUwH5hA7y9hi3rtzxWHER6sNqiyuR2k1l1Mubv/s320/IMGP4353.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tazawa-ko - drizzly lakeside</td></tr>
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<br />
We have arranged a bus stop pick up at the slightly remote location of Tazawakohan, lakeside at the deepest lake in Japan. It’s a warm and sunny lunchtime, and we envisage walks and swims in the lake. Tazawa-ko (Lake Tazawa) is in a very scenic area, but the weather turns, and some welcome rain arrives, so we will not have much chance of sightseeing or swimming. As it turns out it is not anyway such an easy place to walk or swim. There is no footpath along the narrow road bordering the lake, and very little access to the lakeside, unless we go into the village 15-20 minutes away.<br />
<br />
The place we are staying in (‘That sounds good! Cafe and Inn’) is a jazzy hippie guest house over the road from the lake, and our loft apartment has lovely lakeside glimpses through the trees. Just as well, as we are captive to the weather for the next day. The place also has a small private onsen that we can book to bathe together - what a treat, for me at least!<br />
<h4>
16 July Tazawa-ko</h4>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwSmeyobXrW-3se7dteTnVcIrZj2ztBa9eLKndfBGLKNmyvWpFdXwbJjFjQr3tZqJiiK8jd6OoeHXaTz5XoP7qiFGpJbEUWUt48Yy9_5KOcXe3IR_34dn2LtQEQEfDd7HOHG6bUK0AsG2/s1600/IMGP4362.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1370" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwSmeyobXrW-3se7dteTnVcIrZj2ztBa9eLKndfBGLKNmyvWpFdXwbJjFjQr3tZqJiiK8jd6OoeHXaTz5XoP7qiFGpJbEUWUt48Yy9_5KOcXe3IR_34dn2LtQEQEfDd7HOHG6bUK0AsG2/s320/IMGP4362.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tazawako dining room/bar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are captive not only to the rain, but with no access to the town, also to the guest house restaurant. Fortunately it is beautiful, fresh, veggie-based home cooking by Yuli, a little on the pricy side, but a welcome respite from all the fast-food picnics. And the breakfast is just gorgeous! (See <a href="http://belinda-ann.blogspot.com.au/2017/08/breakfast-stamps-and-flowers.html">my post re Breakfasts</a>). On the first night friends of Tatsuya, our host, come to celebrate a birthday and play some jazz. We so wish we could speak Japanese and join the party! Over two days we eat: Veggie gratin, veg soup, octopus salad, braised pork, home made bread, margarita pizza, and spaghetti al vongole (the best!).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0GRf4jFS8nZ4QZQYwGO52IUIZxIdpJxdN8xTuqj_WLUHQn_p-i0gMaIJ6JXp2wcBDmkuHrtdRuhEx8qO3RjOI1izvP2vrLJPSdEqi_iXWNJMIjfvNnm1hCI6gyWCZ4fsSabeNjyLDpND/s1600/IMGP4385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0GRf4jFS8nZ4QZQYwGO52IUIZxIdpJxdN8xTuqj_WLUHQn_p-i0gMaIJ6JXp2wcBDmkuHrtdRuhEx8qO3RjOI1izvP2vrLJPSdEqi_iXWNJMIjfvNnm1hCI6gyWCZ4fsSabeNjyLDpND/s320/IMGP4385.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yuli - Tazawako cook and hostess</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZc2aaZjkgHjszLWARMqyRNw5dPwHXmiQx69lQZtJP7K_NWlt-_0fMO9SOdUiOg1e29xTInU_GeU6g9a3kcq_THs2ECXp1LCFN00U1vCVSfMl1CFu3SBN9JfPn22I1qf4ZUq3rs6ftBCaD/s1600/IMGP4390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZc2aaZjkgHjszLWARMqyRNw5dPwHXmiQx69lQZtJP7K_NWlt-_0fMO9SOdUiOg1e29xTInU_GeU6g9a3kcq_THs2ECXp1LCFN00U1vCVSfMl1CFu3SBN9JfPn22I1qf4ZUq3rs6ftBCaD/s320/IMGP4390.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the train again ...</td></tr>
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<h4>
17 July - Hiraizumi</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNGnAxkEp8DnOSIzmlptyhfcUquASMmcBF80hbh6SOWZ496aoNMT4qMtg7h3rgWe7lWiK77ik6yj9vwmSRM9qDh5D_Eq7xlIy_DYlmrLgVF4luZaMNHZCglf5vuAY5RjCfpIAEkhyphenhyphenvpjy/s1600/IMGP4714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNGnAxkEp8DnOSIzmlptyhfcUquASMmcBF80hbh6SOWZ496aoNMT4qMtg7h3rgWe7lWiK77ik6yj9vwmSRM9qDh5D_Eq7xlIy_DYlmrLgVF4luZaMNHZCglf5vuAY5RjCfpIAEkhyphenhyphenvpjy/s320/IMGP4714.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Historic Hiraizumi</td></tr>
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<div>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfOMYJfcKA1apGLpLI71jPli-0QbAoex5fjBp7fLTH5sS5gE8afIafLHkXcyzte7q6p7_BWQFUR62Dv3mxqFQW_ShdTXw-dK-zV8DlD9VU7qt9EWhYqZhhyLBEbnCtGwCXRrCvAjflsvr/s1600/IMGP4733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfOMYJfcKA1apGLpLI71jPli-0QbAoex5fjBp7fLTH5sS5gE8afIafLHkXcyzte7q6p7_BWQFUR62Dv3mxqFQW_ShdTXw-dK-zV8DlD9VU7qt9EWhYqZhhyLBEbnCtGwCXRrCvAjflsvr/s320/IMGP4733.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our very solicitous hosts ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdUFtf_Sguw9_U4YUgaIPHn3bbKpCCfiQqBV1m71CHvY7SrnTXanar9s2YqTW-RTJuAw9BSpcR-tMV9te-9IBEiWYF9n21qH9kbC2lJRODUC8kRMLM2Pfjy3kVT3Wvv-IM_qty-nQ98YqU/s1600/IMGP4720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdUFtf_Sguw9_U4YUgaIPHn3bbKpCCfiQqBV1m71CHvY7SrnTXanar9s2YqTW-RTJuAw9BSpcR-tMV9te-9IBEiWYF9n21qH9kbC2lJRODUC8kRMLM2Pfjy3kVT3Wvv-IM_qty-nQ98YqU/s320/IMGP4720.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... and the lovely apartment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTBUU65QuwFm9MlCfKxxK6bs2oU4T9CFHsTnz3Q0j-sh7pyqSfa-MO2UFPt73fM8SRnnd5cvxFNpsXvP_FZFgklwhxUiP2T13ddSVGGZLrUGcxYKmRB6orkIyEcz6K-nZ0_vRybtEQCb97/s1600/IMGP4538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTBUU65QuwFm9MlCfKxxK6bs2oU4T9CFHsTnz3Q0j-sh7pyqSfa-MO2UFPt73fM8SRnnd5cvxFNpsXvP_FZFgklwhxUiP2T13ddSVGGZLrUGcxYKmRB6orkIyEcz6K-nZ0_vRybtEQCb97/s320/IMGP4538.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old-style - Hiraizumi town centre</td></tr>
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<br />
At Hiraizumi, a small, neat and old-fashioned town with deep history, we are unexpectedly met at the train. That personal level of welcome and service continues at the guesthouse. Unexpectedly it is a single apartment of two large rooms attached to a family house (we are the only guests). We have our own toilet and basin, but the bathroom is (as usual) shared. There is loads of space, but in traditional Japanese style - almost no furniture. ‘Where am I to sit?’ asks Chris. We have to pass through our hosts’ private space to shower, or even to go out, and they are endlessly attentive: Can we drive you? Let us show you the way! Where have you been? How was it? Can I change your sheets? Oh, how kind and lovely they are, and I can’t help wishing they would leave us alone!<br />
<br />
Hiraizumi was once the area selected for development of ‘The Pure Land’ of Japanese Buddhism, and while it has a population of less than 8000, its cultural sites have UNESCO World Heritage status. The incredible array of temples mostly long since destroyed, but the gardens, with some stone foundations, remain, as well as the famous ‘Golden Temple’ of Chuson-ji. The guest house is close to two of the historic temple sites, Motsu-ji, which still has some temple buildings, and Kanjizau-in, with a ‘Pure Land’ garden bereft of temples. We explore the two sites, and in the park find a nice spot (where young boys are fishing) for drinks later.<br />
<br />
Then - look for a dinner place, but it’s Monday night in a small town and almost everything is closed. I find a likely restaurant on google maps, and it too is closed when we reach it. However, a family-type restaurant over the road is open, and we have the usual job of selecting dishes (tempura/noodle set and pork/noodle set) by pointing at the pictures. (Set means a complete meal including rice, soup and accompaniments). We do wonder how limited our choices are by our lack of language, but it’s pretty good, washed down with a local sake, for less than $20 each. On the way home, a storm arrives and we are drenched - no park drinks tonight!<br />
<h4>
18 July - Hiraizumi</h4>
It’s going to be hot (again!) so we set out early for Chuson-ji. It’s just opening up, and all is cool, quiet, damp and lovely. The Golden Temple is taken care of early. It’s impressively golden, under cover in a custom-built controlled environment, and no photos allowed. The rest of the day is a blissful meander from mossy rock to rustic shrine, to crumbling lantern, with the odd fire hydrant thrown in. There's also an excellent museum nearby that illuminates the history of Hiraizumi, like most histories it is complicated so look it up if you are interested!<br />
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By 2pm we are home, after a good soba noodle soup, feeling very satisfied. Our host recommends a restaurant for dinner - it is the one we found closed yesterday! It turns out to be in the family home of a young, well-travelled and articulate Japanese chef, who is running his small restaurant mostly single-handed. We eat snapper and vegetables and a veg and pecorino spaghetti. It’s excellent.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning at Chuson-ji Temple complex</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool and green at Chuson-ji</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chuson-ji souvenir seller</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suburban rice paddy on the way to the restaurant</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihxaRo9blnPn6Q0-MeCfdancWLghOZVgXEoCRJxXoVDgypU_3eaMIx5JGGQIF84SgKhyf51YWYRB0jEQTHMI3GGbhbLkTbPcKheO76dPHogpm1L3UWJ22mqLQPPiuxKn8hS3qVZs-gv4-8/s1600/IMGP4586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihxaRo9blnPn6Q0-MeCfdancWLghOZVgXEoCRJxXoVDgypU_3eaMIx5JGGQIF84SgKhyf51YWYRB0jEQTHMI3GGbhbLkTbPcKheO76dPHogpm1L3UWJ22mqLQPPiuxKn8hS3qVZs-gv4-8/s320/IMGP4586.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first meeting with Matsuo Basho ...</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-6973286347904061002017-08-03T14:45:00.001+10:002017-08-04T09:02:42.300+10:00Japan: Hokkaido 2 - Toyako to Hakodate<h4>
July 8 - Toyako to Hakodate</h4>
Starting our first JR pass today (6 days of travel over 14 days), we train back to Sapporo, then to the lakeside resort of Toyako. It’s a heavily developed resort that has seen better days, I’m hoping for some picturesque decay to offset the big hotels along the lakeshore.<br />
<br />
It’s good to be on the long distance train trips at last, like so much else in Japan, the system is efficient, well-organised and designed for human comfort. It is expected that you will be picnicking on the train, and stations all have takeaway food options for the purpose. It’s also expected that you will take gifts home for friends and relatives, and even larger stores display heavily packaged gift food items (see previous post). From Furano it’s a 4.5 hour ride, with two changes, to Toya, then a short bus ride to the lakeside of Toyako Onsen. It’s an infrequent local bus with no luggage facilities - one assumes the upmarket resorts run shuttles? I was worried that the hotel (Granvillage Toya Daiwa Ryokan Annex) would be tacky in spite of its grand name, but it’s fine - a smaller, no-frills, slightly shabby alternative to the big expensive hotels along the strip. Our room is large and tatami floored with a large dusty picture window framing the lake. We have a sink, toilets are shared, and bathing is communal - very Japanese-y.<br />
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We take a walk along the lakeside at sunset then find a ramen place for dinner. Mine is shoyu ramen with no extras, and is ok, but Chris’s miso ramen is delicious. We are back at the hotel in time to view the nightly firework display over the lake. Wow! It’s surprisingly fabulous!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgF09Fs4JNrFIGgToHawLeoOI3_9YzBEsVa1GX527YrlxuM4GqOimaohgS1KK8LtVvk95zLTuzE2PpSkVYF8cSnLDldCrNa1U3wZ2uaS6qx88ops0bEPxCpC6fLD-mo24dOSrF6INsF_W/s1600/IMGP3064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgF09Fs4JNrFIGgToHawLeoOI3_9YzBEsVa1GX527YrlxuM4GqOimaohgS1KK8LtVvk95zLTuzE2PpSkVYF8cSnLDldCrNa1U3wZ2uaS6qx88ops0bEPxCpC6fLD-mo24dOSrF6INsF_W/s320/IMGP3064.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our room</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris in yukata</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxyoNW0JFOW6m6OeRA7_YDe6udJG_Hy1tpznj6ttw7qgreSKdj38-tGCdmpSNXw4Vl2q_QOzlT2Rvj7uNR5dUZhNu7lairlq-McbFMOb1I-qAEoPqTVSwOHf5qnX_pv4KVlxFMPacZ1Rkk/s1600/IMGP3091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxyoNW0JFOW6m6OeRA7_YDe6udJG_Hy1tpznj6ttw7qgreSKdj38-tGCdmpSNXw4Vl2q_QOzlT2Rvj7uNR5dUZhNu7lairlq-McbFMOb1I-qAEoPqTVSwOHf5qnX_pv4KVlxFMPacZ1Rkk/s320/IMGP3091.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset swans</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia6tZWakQj0EDrL3dYX-3rS93igrMD3TFU28Q0nbuJN51FiA39E9e9EhJkxWWb1ZRumYbyE-3muBBylRtQK_WFiBOVEPPGs3AvcnEKIFchcWS18ESaFucyKf5-TmZ501pFAxLtsBf0pMdU/s1600/IMGP3266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia6tZWakQj0EDrL3dYX-3rS93igrMD3TFU28Q0nbuJN51FiA39E9e9EhJkxWWb1ZRumYbyE-3muBBylRtQK_WFiBOVEPPGs3AvcnEKIFchcWS18ESaFucyKf5-TmZ501pFAxLtsBf0pMdU/s320/IMGP3266.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night-time fireworks</td></tr>
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<h4>
9 July - Toyako</h4>
What a nice view to wake up to! There’s really only one excursion out of Toyako, and it’s to Mt Uzu, a (barely) active volcano, and its baby, Showa-Shinzan, born 1943-45, documented by a local postmaster. It’s a brief bus ride to a row of tacky gift shops, saved by their decrepitude, then an expensive cable-car ride to the crater and a short hot walk to the summit. It’s underwhelming really. We mooch around taking photographs of other tourists, before taking the cable car down again. At the base, there are apparently an Ainu museum, and one dedicated to intrepid vulcanologist/postmaster Masao Mimatsu. It’s quite a trek, un-signposted, past carparks and shuttered shops, to a reproduction of an Ainu house, with old photos displayed, and a fire burning inside - lovely. Then to a small ‘cultural centre’ for the MM museum. It’s a tiny, charming display, full of old paper artefacts - drawings, papers, plans and journals. But I have only 10 minutes before the bus goes, dammit!<br />
Back to the hotel for a bath, which is SO hot that I and three other women are all crowded into the one end that is cooler! Then another picnic, by the lake while we wait for fireworks. It is a beautiful, soft summer evening, and slowly the hotel guests come out, some in yukata, to promenade and see the show. The crazy kitsch cruiseboat ‘Espoir’ glides across the lake like a fantasy floating castle - more Miyazaki - it’s a sweet holiday atmosphere.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwtvvl_vYRW761FvGa01jVZAYKQTu40V40SAPGBTip2NFDhbpI8JM67Q9PxF9YSBm7mKL_S6rhR5uWYRU8CkRTke4yjMfQUfZDGC-8_phyphenhyphenK5heP0jnFklrQXpwHu_k4NPnMkuCf38ISLxs/s1600/IMGP3135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwtvvl_vYRW761FvGa01jVZAYKQTu40V40SAPGBTip2NFDhbpI8JM67Q9PxF9YSBm7mKL_S6rhR5uWYRU8CkRTke4yjMfQUfZDGC-8_phyphenhyphenK5heP0jnFklrQXpwHu_k4NPnMkuCf38ISLxs/s320/IMGP3135.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris with 'baby' volcano Showa Shinzan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBDYu0QLEsXe32hgyO4s_234BTZ8UODQpkQw42mpyPTUt5oUFDEZ8lLlqBOLI8ioYFGtSIYeL7lHUoZb-Yst5HfL_WfZN4fjyE8x4uqzn44azdjk7tdyJZnp_ftwHU4ruICYsD4eQTmq1/s1600/IMGP3174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBDYu0QLEsXe32hgyO4s_234BTZ8UODQpkQw42mpyPTUt5oUFDEZ8lLlqBOLI8ioYFGtSIYeL7lHUoZb-Yst5HfL_WfZN4fjyE8x4uqzn44azdjk7tdyJZnp_ftwHU4ruICYsD4eQTmq1/s320/IMGP3174.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourist at the top</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh0lFAzZBXXb_aXAB2P4ke91uZdep3Asj5_eaNT_gTo2tWXA6b-zxjA013vbKMxCUnOyTFBM-9IqrU1A0wzEIw1rFkXb67jMVh2C8rxrD0IMuWjOwoq2PFeHowBVNDA6RmrEQJ-1yspwsg/s1600/IMGP3195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh0lFAzZBXXb_aXAB2P4ke91uZdep3Asj5_eaNT_gTo2tWXA6b-zxjA013vbKMxCUnOyTFBM-9IqrU1A0wzEIw1rFkXb67jMVh2C8rxrD0IMuWjOwoq2PFeHowBVNDA6RmrEQJ-1yspwsg/s320/IMGP3195.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ainu museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMHT-FqqqcJ9iyQdEttHXRnEEguEpegmtbUb3odjhU5jV27iABdc2Y4lm9989hGr-jpgDkSIAZ5ZWdh7jot3kQwc6yG5690LhxoSQZzd1hUBUTjKzCK_TI5hGGAaImtowtncb7vOY5KRw/s320/IMGP3102.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Promenade</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKPhROCTdekVgo5tcpRBaOVy_-wasM2uoDBqKr4KmhyYpF6P9EX8bEuDz78xDbxtoSIHVmhiYXegFILVqjlMGVUk_kTMkAnYDKyC0TXUtqURN5R696Nf5dasfprRxsyKBJn_qcY5zS4O4v/s1600/IMGP3225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKPhROCTdekVgo5tcpRBaOVy_-wasM2uoDBqKr4KmhyYpF6P9EX8bEuDz78xDbxtoSIHVmhiYXegFILVqjlMGVUk_kTMkAnYDKyC0TXUtqURN5R696Nf5dasfprRxsyKBJn_qcY5zS4O4v/s320/IMGP3225.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Espoir' at twilight</td></tr>
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<h4>
10 July - Toyako to Hakodate</h4>
It’s just a short train ride, less than two hours, from Toyako to Hakodate, so we have time to ride in the ‘Espoir’ around the lake, and to Ojima Island. At the island we have just 25 minutes before the return boat, but that’s ok, the map shows a forest walk that’s ten minutes each way. It’s a good thing that Chris decides to wait by the dock, as the ten minutes each way is more like 15, and I’m almost sprinting as I get back to the dock, where the boat is at the point of leaving, five minutes early. Phew. Takes the whole ride back for my heart to return to normal, definitely not as fit as I should be!<br />
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Back on the bus, and to the station, for the Hakodate train. Looking at the map, it will be a 20 minute walk around the waterfront to our guesthouse, Jokura. In the event, it’s a hot, mostly shadeless walk through the fishmarket (one of our first sights - a giant octopus in a tank, awww!) and along an industrial dockfront, until we reach the old brick warehouse tourist strip more than halfway along. Still hot, but a more pleasant walk.<br />
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Our hosts greet us with a cool drink and warm welcome. Mr and Mrs Sato, a kind and generous couple manage their small and impeccably clean guesthouse like a family home, crammed with artefacts from Japan and abroad. I particularly admire an Ainu gown, and find that the Ainu Museum is just down the road.<br />
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After the usual siesta we walk to the waterfront warehouses, the touristic centre and the site of many restaurants. As we haven’t yet tried it, we choose a conveyor belt sushi place. Have no idea what to do and no English is spoken, but the ipad ordering system has an English option so we order one or two things that arrive promptly - then go for it: salmon, grilled eel, salmon roe, tempura prawns … it’s all good. Not sure what to do about dishes on the conveyor - are they up for grabs or pre-ordered? Seems that some are, some not, so we leave it alone (find out later that pre-orders are specially marked, so will have to try that later). After a satisfying amount (about 10 dishes? Nowhere near the 30+ of the couple next to us!), we settle the bill - with sake, about $20 each, pretty good value. Grabbing some more supermarket sake we head to the waterfront for a post-prandial tipple as the sun sets, and drink in the balmy summer air.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAvvselO-rvCCQJHI4_SXiz3aYz8WQsG_xo16xMxuOBRltKbAY5SehHXgpr8FvLEi8n8qwoXMkkOu3PepuaZmKUj2E1y6uFEFViv0cmP3Zz08YnQlDnthZBQVMUDDYZmhtsyQCNG_R60d/s1600/IMGP3408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAvvselO-rvCCQJHI4_SXiz3aYz8WQsG_xo16xMxuOBRltKbAY5SehHXgpr8FvLEi8n8qwoXMkkOu3PepuaZmKUj2E1y6uFEFViv0cmP3Zz08YnQlDnthZBQVMUDDYZmhtsyQCNG_R60d/s320/IMGP3408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris and giant octopus</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7pcyVzzsGUjLPpzEw7Id5mtqi92zkAKmP0qsRHA7Wev1ZQf2_2q0ndL95IKWu_v7bUt38wgmp4ord-OAH0mvlr4LrGep0cZF3lzTGdTkDpn4Ntim-TZLsQac5ptySCUswDYY8o5ZZAGF/s1600/IMGP3448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7pcyVzzsGUjLPpzEw7Id5mtqi92zkAKmP0qsRHA7Wev1ZQf2_2q0ndL95IKWu_v7bUt38wgmp4ord-OAH0mvlr4LrGep0cZF3lzTGdTkDpn4Ntim-TZLsQac5ptySCUswDYY8o5ZZAGF/s320/IMGP3448.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the waterfront</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
11 July - Hakodate</h4>
We haven’t booked breakfast at the guest house, because the Hakodate morning fishmarket is famous for seafood breakfast. So we head over there (had a glimpse yesterday on the way from the station), and it is huge. Wander for some time through street stalls and a restaurant arcade, with relentless displays of plastic seafood donburi (rice bowl). One of the promoted dishes has a newly decapitated squid (with eyes intact) sitting atop a rice bowl. A video display demonstrates how it squirms as sauce is added, sometimes toppling right onto the table. Not appetising to me, but it does have a ghoulish fascination.<br />
<br />
We find a seat in one of the main market areas, just near the tank where visitors can fish for squid, then watch as it is prepared for consumption (raw of course), and a bbq stall where huge scallops are being grilled on their shell. We try the scallops - delicious, but at about $9 each a pricy treat. More wandering - how do they sell so much seafood? How does it stay fresh? We share a donburi with salmon and prawns, and another with salmon roe and uni (sea urchin roe) - about $15 each. On top of the sushi last night, feeling about raw-seafooded out - never thought I would say that!<br />
<br />
Today we get a tram pass ($8 each) so we can explore from one end of the track to the other. First to Goryokake Park, and the remains of an old 19th C fort. The Japanese do very good parks, but in the end it’s not as interesting as the walk on the way there ...<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>NOTE on Hokkaido history - because (mainland) Japanese and Western history in Hokkaido did not really begin until the mid-19th C, the documented, recorded and celebrated history is quite shallow. As it is in Australia, the history of indigenous cultures is treated as something apart, not relevant to ‘development’, and not leaving many visible traces.</i><br />
<br />
Again, it’s a hot day so we check out the Art Museum nearby. An interesting show on Japanese Realism (trad to contemporary), and a very small permanent collection. For $15 entry, it’s rather overpriced, but cool. On the way back to the bus stop a quick stop at MUJI for stationery gift items and some upmarket snacks. Then out to the end of the line at Yunokawa - it’s uniformly grungy suburban, no tourist spots here. We briefly explore a small temple area, then head back.<br />
<br />
Planning a wharf picnic tonight - we still have ekiben tonkatsu left from our last train ride - we buy a few extras (of course, sake) and resume our wharfside spot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVoE6PhD71EKpTPfT3vvgdOnIHZzCBz6jSdnM8sShYjodBwU6hpiuGb7SbeG4LhAt01ItZ6IL94pRzULvsce5HI0sFwbjicKknOiXSrXbqDCi9oOxAm-kw3gS3Yevbht77HkKZAVmObYsA/s1600/IMGP3483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVoE6PhD71EKpTPfT3vvgdOnIHZzCBz6jSdnM8sShYjodBwU6hpiuGb7SbeG4LhAt01ItZ6IL94pRzULvsce5HI0sFwbjicKknOiXSrXbqDCi9oOxAm-kw3gS3Yevbht77HkKZAVmObYsA/s320/IMGP3483.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decapitated squid - plastic version!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMQJDfX4Cb7PWDfuD77xsurxjo6VhlIvlNYM0jZ2ZtbqqcG19vkEYbP7jzkiE7Vd5Ev3IylWitOvj7QfPoB9boe3IIzrJC6A3foDqrQB9BabAE8yVeIdDpC6BZc9dJTLtMxhUgMvoBmfX/s1600/IMGP3505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMQJDfX4Cb7PWDfuD77xsurxjo6VhlIvlNYM0jZ2ZtbqqcG19vkEYbP7jzkiE7Vd5Ev3IylWitOvj7QfPoB9boe3IIzrJC6A3foDqrQB9BabAE8yVeIdDpC6BZc9dJTLtMxhUgMvoBmfX/s320/IMGP3505.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grilling scallops</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikkBXDOWbjb_STcEjbKkdsjcxmLGKtmZDbGF_Jy39vazxnX5DqCJWO0GKhu3Onx1ceOt6l5_uBeiNpVgcC9J2xcbc6rJ_SEMR9PzV6aT5EXEAcJMrCGSOgV3KJWxxcxd_Bt4n6hyphenhyphenMaAwmq/s1600/IMGP3497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikkBXDOWbjb_STcEjbKkdsjcxmLGKtmZDbGF_Jy39vazxnX5DqCJWO0GKhu3Onx1ceOt6l5_uBeiNpVgcC9J2xcbc6rJ_SEMR9PzV6aT5EXEAcJMrCGSOgV3KJWxxcxd_Bt4n6hyphenhyphenMaAwmq/s320/IMGP3497.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating scallop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2ohlnWUfF7nsgzCVzhJrrE3ptzn7gMIBf2aykhnIKKpOC3ozyxTQmPnD9ajytHcS-wcgFgdyV7LpG00N6H04kV1XdbEvKa3nzFZFqFueCyeSM-KeeBcGAhAGmqZmdKU_hrwbTBVreukR/s1600/IMGP3501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2ohlnWUfF7nsgzCVzhJrrE3ptzn7gMIBf2aykhnIKKpOC3ozyxTQmPnD9ajytHcS-wcgFgdyV7LpG00N6H04kV1XdbEvKa3nzFZFqFueCyeSM-KeeBcGAhAGmqZmdKU_hrwbTBVreukR/s320/IMGP3501.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing uni (sea urchin roe)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj216JkMtRnWO5nlV0YqtpGY5P9iDNT3p28OepCSe3BwtAJSgqY0WIvVBNSK5BNncpkUirXscL0uBhJ2UMo0KLiBCeRfhxvUXtjSMb6CS_Kege3OtAGKhm5-xM4eASZ_fDhyphenhyphenR7n2RAGjzDt/s1600/IMGP3514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj216JkMtRnWO5nlV0YqtpGY5P9iDNT3p28OepCSe3BwtAJSgqY0WIvVBNSK5BNncpkUirXscL0uBhJ2UMo0KLiBCeRfhxvUXtjSMb6CS_Kege3OtAGKhm5-xM4eASZ_fDhyphenhyphenR7n2RAGjzDt/s320/IMGP3514.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of a thousand seafood stalls</td></tr>
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<h4>
12 July - Hakodate</h4>
We have discovered another gorgeous bakery nearby, so pass by there to pick up breakfast (egg & bacon pie, cream cheese and green onion roll) on the way to JR to make reservations. Lucky we did - Shinkansen are almost booked out! On our way we explore another little backstreet temple area. Like small neighbourhood churches they can be more charming than large, historic edifices. This one is quite crusty, and I find a lovely charred fragment of an old wooden calendar relegated to an incinerator. Then back on the tram to the other end of the line, but Chris is weary, and gets off near our guesthouse, and I continue to the other end of the track - Hakodate Dock and the Foreigners’ Cemetery.<br />
<br />
What a gorgeous walk it turns out to be! The neighbourhood is quaint and crusty, the street lined with flower shops. Because out near the point there is not only the Foreigners’ Cemetery, where Europeans were buried in the times of early settlement in Hokkaido, but also a Chinese cemetery, Russian cemetery, and an enormous Japanese Buddhist cemetery, where a monk is conducting a graveside ritual. It’s a bit hot and sunny for the best atmospheric cemetery photos … but still … a monk gives me a pack of incense, and there’s a nice pathway along the coast.<br />
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I have promised to find lunch and hurry home, stopping for bento at a supermarket on the way. There’s a great selection, including a fab sushi tray - I’ll remember that for dinner. Back home to Jokura, for lunch and rest.<br />
<br />
We had planned to go up the ropeway for sunset views from Mt Hakodate, but online reports of the tourist rush there is off-putting. Instead we walk through the scenic old area of Motomachi, via the Old Govt House, back to the cemeteries. I know what we can eat and where to sit!<br />
<br />
It’s a pleasant and picturesque late afternoon walk. But it’s almost sunset by the time we reach the cemeteries and we haven’t bought anything to eat. There’s a cafe, not quite closed, and we have a quick coffee and snack. Gorgeous cafe lady is a sailor who has been to Sydney, and the view is also gorgeous. Now it is seriously dusk, and we hotfoot it back to the supermarket to find sushi. Alas we are too late! Only leftovers - limp fried shrimp, chicken and salad. And of course sake. We head back down to the waterfront, but it’s quite industrial here at the docklands. Finally we spy a pathway to Midori-no-Shima (Green Island), a man-made promontory park. It’s properly dark now, and hard to see what we are eating, but it’s fairly ordinary … Y’know, I think I’m a bit over supermarket takeaway.<br />
<br />
Walking home, I need to eat something NICE, and close to home we see a Spanish restaurant and stop for a glass of wine and garlic prawns to share. Expensive, but worth it!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrQ9L_PZogBxc9wD_Xwidb0dKW5Mmtjmqkyxhb3V6TmnciJMIjBMel66Gx3igOicvXcGdHhIDoZLvwXM5Ejj8qc1luTML0r7AimWzyu5VlEn2kO4kWL4KNMHosWuzy13uWXChbPDvdtrL/s1600/IMGP3611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrQ9L_PZogBxc9wD_Xwidb0dKW5Mmtjmqkyxhb3V6TmnciJMIjBMel66Gx3igOicvXcGdHhIDoZLvwXM5Ejj8qc1luTML0r7AimWzyu5VlEn2kO4kWL4KNMHosWuzy13uWXChbPDvdtrL/s320/IMGP3611.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the line - evangelising at Yunokawa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YxtK1EbizPKkFmu9W2Q5TGEniONI95h_n1I0tqBUZ1Hm7CPm7IlLStVsr57EwBgSKmoHCGvORHS3S2yPM3vOyGI76Om2l2gtW9UtxW4AvwdUwdge0Q5BGkm98d7q5AV9ZMVX7AFHTfoj/s1600/IMGP3865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YxtK1EbizPKkFmu9W2Q5TGEniONI95h_n1I0tqBUZ1Hm7CPm7IlLStVsr57EwBgSKmoHCGvORHS3S2yPM3vOyGI76Om2l2gtW9UtxW4AvwdUwdge0Q5BGkm98d7q5AV9ZMVX7AFHTfoj/s320/IMGP3865.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crusty streetscape - on the way to Hakodate docks</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWG6bDYhiAPj2fnMetzjYsEqt793ogv1l6KYLf2Lt9MUMxPLMLyO_za0rdbgMP5A1ATb2_m4fFVXzjqcr4eu16-Mt6H5VC6EC_eZLZMfNLOag5KqRosTzd2XjNvUhALRlHWGRA2vYp5YDv/s1600/IMGP3827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWG6bDYhiAPj2fnMetzjYsEqt793ogv1l6KYLf2Lt9MUMxPLMLyO_za0rdbgMP5A1ATb2_m4fFVXzjqcr4eu16-Mt6H5VC6EC_eZLZMfNLOag5KqRosTzd2XjNvUhALRlHWGRA2vYp5YDv/s320/IMGP3827.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other end of the line - Buddhist cemetery</td></tr>
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<h4>
</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUP9vF-mPr5jnEbW6qwnOoBLvOl-pUY1RnhuhXhxC9A6Ais-YWNOiWm-BhtOuIlJ6dGZ-p6Rma0yG3Rh9hpY2pwMf_l3XPyFanL7YAXHfAve4yJlKLAR6UN6xrlMrKUxFvo7lXt_kqL7NX/s1600/IMGP3881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUP9vF-mPr5jnEbW6qwnOoBLvOl-pUY1RnhuhXhxC9A6Ais-YWNOiWm-BhtOuIlJ6dGZ-p6Rma0yG3Rh9hpY2pwMf_l3XPyFanL7YAXHfAve4yJlKLAR6UN6xrlMrKUxFvo7lXt_kqL7NX/s320/IMGP3881.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Hakodate from Motomachi</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtX56fMv9mZwL2UpcOnXGCJASA21cdZQDJeE9vCCtcMtOIzBgPC3Zyx_zgp5p49_Mmn4oGudLB23onUH8dWweocgIyzplcK4XP-q5v8KhTCFHMd096NZiATH4XtcMqjdPCZHVGRaaL1o5K/s1600/IMGP3964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtX56fMv9mZwL2UpcOnXGCJASA21cdZQDJeE9vCCtcMtOIzBgPC3Zyx_zgp5p49_Mmn4oGudLB23onUH8dWweocgIyzplcK4XP-q5v8KhTCFHMd096NZiATH4XtcMqjdPCZHVGRaaL1o5K/s320/IMGP3964.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from cafe, Foreigners' Cemetery</td></tr>
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<h4>
13 July - Hakodate-Hirosaki</h4>
Sadly the Ainu museum has been closed the last two days, so I will not get to visit. So, a quick visit to the Old Haberdashery museum, showing the history of trade in Hakodate, then train ride off Hokkaido and onto Honshu, via the longest underwater tunnel in the world.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVZCgnEYu601Gn18NJc6-2LRsmaNr8avOE5H3ZUwqM-0VZwGpy6PfILde8qgT8iJEldCt5SjKkRKHYrkwRz7v9VVTCWv1YebdDtiGDxDnOky62dFD93c-XXDmGOGUsbf8EFuRKf5eHV-p/s1600/IMGP4012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVZCgnEYu601Gn18NJc6-2LRsmaNr8avOE5H3ZUwqM-0VZwGpy6PfILde8qgT8iJEldCt5SjKkRKHYrkwRz7v9VVTCWv1YebdDtiGDxDnOky62dFD93c-XXDmGOGUsbf8EFuRKf5eHV-p/s320/IMGP4012.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Old Haberdashery Museum</td></tr>
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<h4>
</h4>
belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-37277205777433759372017-08-03T13:58:00.000+10:002017-08-27T14:52:24.954+10:00Japan: Communications and Takeaway food<h4>
COMMUNICATIONS</h4>
Thank goodness there is now a lot of English signage in most places, and maps are usually available in English, because otherwise it would be very difficult - very little English is spoken, particularly in regional areas, although there is an abundance of goodwill and helpfulness. There are stories of foreigners (gaijin) being refused service at restaurants, although we have not found this, but certainly many restaurants have no English signage or English menus and we are reduced to pointing at pictures. It results in a feeling that we are forever floating at the periphery of life here - unless we learn Japanese of course!<br />
<br />
Technological communication, on the other hand, is just fine. We have rented a mobile wifi device and are able to be online (on phone, ipad or laptop) any time we need. Google has a reasonable website translation function, and most people respond promptly to email communication, so we really don’t need to use our phones at all. Just as well as roaming is so expensive - Chris has made several 'pocket calls' in the first couple of days so I turn his phone service off. It gets turned on just once, so that we can text each other when I go shopping alone, and hey presto! Dave calls him from Sydney to chat about the footy. Grrr!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpTI49WW1n5MsLUwkOIN7UlV0F3wtoHCwbmYCwfkHIehL0bq_cszDs-zO-mZ8g3beu3qMFZj714mnbfQbQPbGxurs2DajDbd__1K3wAlkrvHvViu-jVjS0JBTyws8pauQJtyKDoyZ3hF8/s1600/IMGP2620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1004" data-original-width="1516" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpTI49WW1n5MsLUwkOIN7UlV0F3wtoHCwbmYCwfkHIehL0bq_cszDs-zO-mZ8g3beu3qMFZj714mnbfQbQPbGxurs2DajDbd__1K3wAlkrvHvViu-jVjS0JBTyws8pauQJtyKDoyZ3hF8/s320/IMGP2620.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Signs ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0TSieWJvA_opsfIXMMp7HSc-54NcKHWf_U5TkQB1D5WCkjFqCU-MyVjABDtrkJk3UrqSgSCbHKzenNBt9VDB772q7IpJiCJH5Lfd3sMwUYd2DID5p0E3-Yo9EPBIPA-jxw3XIb2OfCJl/s1600/IMGP2883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1499" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0TSieWJvA_opsfIXMMp7HSc-54NcKHWf_U5TkQB1D5WCkjFqCU-MyVjABDtrkJk3UrqSgSCbHKzenNBt9VDB772q7IpJiCJH5Lfd3sMwUYd2DID5p0E3-Yo9EPBIPA-jxw3XIb2OfCJl/s320/IMGP2883.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... signs ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3oA2Gl2vBD5dQJC-kgAEYkgr5CYWyUoizWzFA-XrmJCmg-rTMmm7QggKwoiGq3HSP-dwmFqK13cYNeF8mREu7Le4y3_xdevu4lW9MZrZcWEX_gM5a7ud23h0nqRsXr4s6lNfxEla-Hbt/s1600/IMGP2814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="754" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3oA2Gl2vBD5dQJC-kgAEYkgr5CYWyUoizWzFA-XrmJCmg-rTMmm7QggKwoiGq3HSP-dwmFqK13cYNeF8mREu7Le4y3_xdevu4lW9MZrZcWEX_gM5a7ud23h0nqRsXr4s6lNfxEla-Hbt/s320/IMGP2814.jpg" width="156" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... everywhere the signs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<br />
TAKEAWAY FOOD</h4>
One of the first food surprises is the amazing array of ready to eat meals available at every convenience store and supermarket in Japan. Japanese ‘bento’ (lunchbox) dishes such as sushi, katsu (crumbed cutlets of pork, chicken or fish) and noodle salads sit alongside pasta dishes, sandwiches and filled rolls, and all are super fresh and cheap. But the convenience store range pales beside offerings at a larger supermarket which includes great arrays of freshly prepared sushi and sashimi, freshly cooked fritters of all kinds, and a range of bakery items. When we finally reach the big city, the bar is raised again - amazing sashimi platter on grated daikon from our local supermarket for about $8. What I was impressed by at 7-11 looks pretty ordinary now. It’s a picnickers dream.<br />
<br />
As well, there's the omnipresent vending machine. Most dispense an amazing array of cool drinks, some hot drinks, some alcoholic drinks as well, and some ice creams and sweets. We did not see any of the legendary (mythical?) pantie-vending machines ...<br />
<br />
So how is all the ensuing rubbish dispensed with? Well, it can be hard to find a rubbish bin, and littering is definitely taboo. We realise that at many locations where fast food is dispensed (combini, tourist shops, railway stations) there is also an array of bins for sorting the rubbish - paper, plastic, glass, metal ... Japanese generate an amazing quantity of waste, but they are also amazingly conscientious about recycling.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1iQDa2M8AG41TnSUmO71XiEID1wdVo_0du32EIzotl4WdFYo6Uyl_wuSl9xpzDZrd-sB4xl_VJtYPSGLyAv_zHle-6jojAROR9Zsc64igBFDBJVfzRAZ8S-14m4Noj_JJ20vzngsJASj/s1600/IMGP3677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="988" data-original-width="1490" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1iQDa2M8AG41TnSUmO71XiEID1wdVo_0du32EIzotl4WdFYo6Uyl_wuSl9xpzDZrd-sB4xl_VJtYPSGLyAv_zHle-6jojAROR9Zsc64igBFDBJVfzRAZ8S-14m4Noj_JJ20vzngsJASj/s320/IMGP3677.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supermarket shopping</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
GIFT FOOD</h4>
One of the choicest takeaway items is the ‘ekiben’ (station bento) - a special bento box designed to take on train journeys. They are more expensive than a regular bento, but always beautifully prepared and packaged, and designed to be very easy to eat while travelling. But I was having trouble finding ekiben at the train stations - the shops are overwhelmingly stocked with ‘gift packages’ of food. Dried or vacuum packed local delicacies, boxes of novelty cakes, cookies and sweets, food made to resemble cartoon characters … none of it designed for picnicking. The Japanese have a strong tradition of gift-giving, and buying gifts for friends and family when travelling long distance by train is obligatory. Travellers could be seen boarding the train with big bags of beautifully boxed gift food. But where to find ekiben? Usually at a tiny little stall very close to, or even on the train platform.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJa4ZnhCzaFarXH0Jtn3X3zkzMI0n5Go-eJEgsHy8Ln8uJ_sCPV3iVb_V8Pb8LXX6jjbBFx6i91xXJO5qEJX_xfdkw-dSf1941UYrSweeaV-IhMYjfML-htXfkPfEZMopAq6jlgkiBzpq/s1600/IMGP5045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="1467" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJa4ZnhCzaFarXH0Jtn3X3zkzMI0n5Go-eJEgsHy8Ln8uJ_sCPV3iVb_V8Pb8LXX6jjbBFx6i91xXJO5qEJX_xfdkw-dSf1941UYrSweeaV-IhMYjfML-htXfkPfEZMopAq6jlgkiBzpq/s320/IMGP5045.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gift food 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNGixaeYzEuTAmgdp8RKsFexNwiTw43SoC8J_UzzS6GUaKOR05CsMCmsyunYauOoA2RgD8JdBs7s7tmhDNOJAi-UHTEsHb2sZOv2PNeU6z-4yZgN4cyyRw38dU_CLlxjQnwtvenn1IeT3/s1600/IMGP5046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNGixaeYzEuTAmgdp8RKsFexNwiTw43SoC8J_UzzS6GUaKOR05CsMCmsyunYauOoA2RgD8JdBs7s7tmhDNOJAi-UHTEsHb2sZOv2PNeU6z-4yZgN4cyyRw38dU_CLlxjQnwtvenn1IeT3/s320/IMGP5046.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gift food 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8UU0BmIcM4YKva6lKcTjKXfzvFXIC1Zk7qqYpRVNFdNFpsWxMcYsdKGq0XWpsI6gsUBrWeMfmAwd-eC-iozdA5KaoGu66RBLPr1r1L7rOkfTEiCRXGf3jNBeqcTPpe2sclVCwz-ePuRD/s1600/IMGP5316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="956" data-original-width="1494" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8UU0BmIcM4YKva6lKcTjKXfzvFXIC1Zk7qqYpRVNFdNFpsWxMcYsdKGq0XWpsI6gsUBrWeMfmAwd-eC-iozdA5KaoGu66RBLPr1r1L7rOkfTEiCRXGf3jNBeqcTPpe2sclVCwz-ePuRD/s320/IMGP5316.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ekiben packed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-N7bRzpI2fm-nlfA9SQ9fbJq41x8zLDnz5kcVL3_q7uN_WsDpS1gzxKAdOpMXpoRTeC2tsaM0J-rh_Lf2HAkYSsHVgreJ0A1A8HGzluPtL5UQBIbXvvKsX9Yi9Z3CFlYQ_EZ3ssbSfZV/s1600/IMGP5318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="942" data-original-width="1428" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-N7bRzpI2fm-nlfA9SQ9fbJq41x8zLDnz5kcVL3_q7uN_WsDpS1gzxKAdOpMXpoRTeC2tsaM0J-rh_Lf2HAkYSsHVgreJ0A1A8HGzluPtL5UQBIbXvvKsX9Yi9Z3CFlYQ_EZ3ssbSfZV/s320/IMGP5318.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ekiben unpacked</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLsNAW71uYoc8EeY0leDwXii3_gJj7l_1YFMxRqz3QxnJi9opyfZnmj19KBXYZ9GfB5b_SK5M8XTjJk89SxP4mqImdB08n6FzSWEkknZmOBA5OfTQ6PwkHShvZXfqFRpJ91N_ByMLOTyQE/s1600/IMGP3354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="820" data-original-width="1270" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLsNAW71uYoc8EeY0leDwXii3_gJj7l_1YFMxRqz3QxnJi9opyfZnmj19KBXYZ9GfB5b_SK5M8XTjJk89SxP4mqImdB08n6FzSWEkknZmOBA5OfTQ6PwkHShvZXfqFRpJ91N_ByMLOTyQE/s320/IMGP3354.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Ekiben lady, Toya Station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3084774414279274073.post-9911296249281412012017-08-01T15:07:00.000+10:002018-02-26T17:13:45.602+11:00Japan: Hokkaido 1 - Sapporo to Furano<h4>
3 July - Sydney - Tokyo</h4>
It is not an auspicious start. We wake at 4am to get to the station at 5, the airport at 5.40 - to find that our flight is delayed by two hours. And we will miss our connecting flight to Hokkaido. But don’t worry, says the check-in guy, there are plenty of other flights. So, after a long wait, the flight is fine, and the sake delicious, though the food is bland. Arrive in Tokyo to find - all other Hokkaido flights leave from Haneda (we are in Narita, 90 min bus ride away) , and it’s too late to connect tonight. Not happy … but nothing to be done … we are given a ticket to Haneda, voucher for hotel and meals, and flight in the morning. So - the hotel is bland but smart and comfortable. Dinner a beyond-boring school meal, but breakfast a fresh and extensive buffet of Japanese and western food. No, didn’t Instagram it! But at last I feel as if I’m in Japan. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRuS2ja2UfbcxQQtvPbvTYBGt57dYP-rRbpKSzfrJitTDHCk-UVLWWLaXEhZlkzA8UxDr3p1a_e_tSPohyphenhyphenKkFAjJ50P1zjl688pco6wqqRPm5TcoxddDzy9oiIeItCLHNU9pzuFK_unYTV/s1600/IMGP2606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRuS2ja2UfbcxQQtvPbvTYBGt57dYP-rRbpKSzfrJitTDHCk-UVLWWLaXEhZlkzA8UxDr3p1a_e_tSPohyphenhyphenKkFAjJ50P1zjl688pco6wqqRPm5TcoxddDzy9oiIeItCLHNU9pzuFK_unYTV/s320/IMGP2606.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bus-ing between airports, Tokyo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
4 July - Sapporo</h4>
Early flight to Sapporo - small scare when check-in girl says that the flight is full, but she just means that we can’t sit together. No problemo. It’s just a 2 hour flight, and easy to find the train to Sapporo central. A 20 minute walk to the Weekly Sapporo 2000 hotel turns into 40 minutes with detours. The CBD scenery becomes grungier until we are in a downtown neighbourhood of bars and love hotels. This would be it then! The room is small but crammed with facilities including kitchenette, ensuite (with bath!), desk with LAN, small double bed, couch and coffee table.<br />
<br />
After check-in, with free soft drink, off to explore and find lunch. We are making up for lost time, and just a few minutes away is Uonosuke seafood restaurant, where we order seafood bowl, tempura and chilled sake. Totally delicious! The bowl has salmon and other raw fish, prawns and salmon roe, served over rice. The tempura has prawns and vegetables - eggplant, asparagus, pumpkin, onion … crunchy and succulent. Price including wine - about $60. No, didn't Instagram it!<br />
<br />
The rest of the afternoon, wander in a sake haze, exploring the city. Seafood market, pachinko parlours, that crazy Japanese mix of modern, kitsch, crusty and rustic that reminds me of Miyazaki movies. Wonderful to see a city dominated by bicycles, with little traffic, and great courtesy to pedestrians.<br />
<br />
After a nap, off to find dinner at one of the tiny local izakayas. We walk over to the fish market, mostly closed at this hour, then to ‘Ramen Alley’, famous soup arcade, but aren’t inspired. Near to our hotel is a strip of small places - one is Italian, one is sushi (and packed), the next looks just right, a casual yakitori place with a dozen seats. We drink more sake, and eat a variety of skewers - (chicken, chicken liver, pork and ginger, stuffed shitake, eggplant) with a crunchy cabbage, seaweed and sesame salad. YUM! No, didn’t Instagram it!<br />
That’s it, we are exhausted. Back to our tiny bed.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fxclMHn4XGV366FsHWlVg84KhmLSgiwLvjeZqI6MDssplWibYce932ov3vBR-YVXq1QhxOCEA5qizzDsqyFU3eRrerc2Jben4JHcgb9-6kVliLCtdJQZy-6nzWBiXznNgyQxypylWFSk/s1600/IMGP2634.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="828" data-original-width="1173" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fxclMHn4XGV366FsHWlVg84KhmLSgiwLvjeZqI6MDssplWibYce932ov3vBR-YVXq1QhxOCEA5qizzDsqyFU3eRrerc2Jben4JHcgb9-6kVliLCtdJQZy-6nzWBiXznNgyQxypylWFSk/s320/IMGP2634.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our 'downtown' neighbourhood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKN6mdExgQx6l-9PLtSZSCn5GQM9plTKtWYTgHjDJJL2nmT1o5xqMGa-dDHX6w8YAH2nbBIeVkcvWlynFcfdWytL8h4CIIMRO8qg1M_5QpYyRupQNLiw0BqDP07lpEJqrHHG6jaozxzYds/s1600/IMGP2660.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKN6mdExgQx6l-9PLtSZSCn5GQM9plTKtWYTgHjDJJL2nmT1o5xqMGa-dDHX6w8YAH2nbBIeVkcvWlynFcfdWytL8h4CIIMRO8qg1M_5QpYyRupQNLiw0BqDP07lpEJqrHHG6jaozxzYds/s320/IMGP2660.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seafood delights - in plastic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1AqulPndRk8ZflrcHyWeJlfYJPFgjsGTSaXqNgbwjCp-hEWTAaYGXhhj0v_UtgVqwJ97DrffthgpvXkPHUH5VJdKVFPMaMrQ5vyOCB3KvZz33a_iBfvPMgRl9bfnNIukrB7jhWPzi_pd-/s1600/IMGP2805.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1AqulPndRk8ZflrcHyWeJlfYJPFgjsGTSaXqNgbwjCp-hEWTAaYGXhhj0v_UtgVqwJ97DrffthgpvXkPHUH5VJdKVFPMaMrQ5vyOCB3KvZz33a_iBfvPMgRl9bfnNIukrB7jhWPzi_pd-/s320/IMGP2805.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sapporo bicycles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h_Iz_dQifZWMEra6jpgxFs0V6zMLub6XmEorfb5t3BO2D7FT4QSsxfRj8JAeDlH1nqI-_RJdQR8lp9bPKuwkDo1dVZcBxPL59AeQxk8JblkZh7F8-KLw1MjyS06xlZQhj6-JBSy79FH7/s1600/IMGP2842.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h_Iz_dQifZWMEra6jpgxFs0V6zMLub6XmEorfb5t3BO2D7FT4QSsxfRj8JAeDlH1nqI-_RJdQR8lp9bPKuwkDo1dVZcBxPL59AeQxk8JblkZh7F8-KLw1MjyS06xlZQhj6-JBSy79FH7/s320/IMGP2842.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mix of modern and rustic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxrXf8OAcY23UDJH5Ky5iXPOiLY_vyA6AnQlGegUN37ZPd7NQp-1_DQKWgqU8bXYJI2__16anWVNCP5I_iQ9MaX1QWAXj7PsClLBg8pLaDy_MERC1eEahUho3Iuz7RR5IPNIEjxX0f6o_/s1600/IMGP2823.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="956" data-original-width="1278" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxrXf8OAcY23UDJH5Ky5iXPOiLY_vyA6AnQlGegUN37ZPd7NQp-1_DQKWgqU8bXYJI2__16anWVNCP5I_iQ9MaX1QWAXj7PsClLBg8pLaDy_MERC1eEahUho3Iuz7RR5IPNIEjxX0f6o_/s320/IMGP2823.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Miyazaki moment ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglRvtcSK6I1a4qx2hlPq3CJmJ1QrhJg-UHCHnCZEkxmwb38KXLjeTDyE5YXyltNeWnX7nkvfxva8gX0CFHbIMhYRZc3Z4MuyvWbdmzVBY9aImDq1HsD97fZL93XsAbefch-hF07KK6D-E5/s1600/IMGP2645.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglRvtcSK6I1a4qx2hlPq3CJmJ1QrhJg-UHCHnCZEkxmwb38KXLjeTDyE5YXyltNeWnX7nkvfxva8gX0CFHbIMhYRZc3Z4MuyvWbdmzVBY9aImDq1HsD97fZL93XsAbefch-hF07KK6D-E5/s320/IMGP2645.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More plastic food!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvva4qe2821fRuvLhuyOo84DBVoiXOcWRpYC_byOCOUCUZjOXze4dRD8tKZ6jC1wDAmncTGFnSZn0dunC8pz1j6brPptq_xNKKkZL9thbbw81CuGHenqzjWDDNRwpKDcgiJZpjBwx1cNeJ/s1600/IMGP2816.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvva4qe2821fRuvLhuyOo84DBVoiXOcWRpYC_byOCOUCUZjOXze4dRD8tKZ6jC1wDAmncTGFnSZn0dunC8pz1j6brPptq_xNKKkZL9thbbw81CuGHenqzjWDDNRwpKDcgiJZpjBwx1cNeJ/s320/IMGP2816.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our yakitori joint - ginger wrapped in pork, yum!</td></tr>
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<h4>
5 July - Sapporo</h4>
First thing to do is to find breakfast. Not so easy in this night-life neighbourhood - everything is closed. Unlike many other places in the world, no-one is grabbing coffee and/or breakfast on the way to work.<br />
<br />
At last in Odori Koen, the pretty central park bedecked with competitive flower displays, we spy a sweet corn stall, selling hot grilled cobs for Y300 (about $4). It’s good, and sustains us until we find a great bakery, where we pick out some delicious snacks - bacon roll, fried chicken and sweet, creamy cheese tart - divine. In Japan even the fast food is mostly great.<br />
<br />
Today we plan a day trip to Otaru, seaside fishing village of reputed charm. After a scenic 30 minute train ride, it looks just another middle sized, modern utilitarian Japanese town, the charm all squeezed into a strip of restaurants in old warehouses along a canal near the waterfront, that is teeming with daytrippers.<br />
<br />
We skip out asap and take a boat to Shukutsu around the point, where we are deposited at the end of a long crusty wharf in a very authentic fishing harbour. This is a real fishing village, very few tourists, but lots of old nets, buoys, boats and other functional (and picturesque) detritus. On the small main street along the harbour is a large fish bbq cafe, speciality: herring. They have no English menu so we are forced to select by picture - a bbq herring ‘set’ and a raw seafood ‘set’.<br />
<br />
If the seafood bowl we had yesterday was the tourist version, this seems more ‘authentic’ - how many ways can you eat raw squid (including fermented in squid ink)? There’s also octopus, an unidentified raw fish and some kind of sliced shellfish. Accompaniments are the ubiquitous grated daikon, shredded daikon and cabbage, wasabi, pickles and miso soup with small whelks. All very fresh, but maybe more more interesting than delicious. The bbq herring is very good, with guts and all, charry and salty, with another set of accompaniments and more raw squid! We do our best but can’t quite manage it all, absolutely stuffed for Y3900 (about $45). No Instagram! OK, I give up, there will be no food pics on this blog, but lots of grungy street scenes and gardens!<br />
<br />
Now, we need a walk. Up the hill to Nishin Goten, a fishermen’s dormitory and dwelling from the herring fisheries heyday in the late 19th C. Then to Nishin Goten Villa, the big boss’s house - a gorgeous, elegant Japanese mansion with garden, so incongruous in this tiny fishing village. Can’t help thinking of the indigenous (Ainu) locals who lived on the herring here before mainlanders came along, commercialised, and made their fortunes, the ‘illiterate’ locals reduced to labouring for them, or displaced entirely.<br />
<br />
We have walked off lunch, and now back on bus and train for Sapporo. We won’t need dinner tonight, maybe the ‘Booze and oysters’ bar down the road? Sadly, can’t face more raw seafood today! So it’s a tiny bbq bar for Jingisukan (Ghengis Khan - lamb, grilled on a rounded bbq said to resemble the despot’s helmet), bbq pork and of course sake.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxk6VvPzuKcfn96ckcuuOn6ExQl0G5G8PgHDMBs2DWkRtLAapNuuAzuGZwJy4iWbHw8qzdsbj6JzbCxH8WgDM2QxCNllw7LxUFWqKe9IvOCIMsnMSnr3TNwY8RgfRi8lM-5QXjhBNvO-9l/s1600/IMGP2674.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxk6VvPzuKcfn96ckcuuOn6ExQl0G5G8PgHDMBs2DWkRtLAapNuuAzuGZwJy4iWbHw8qzdsbj6JzbCxH8WgDM2QxCNllw7LxUFWqKe9IvOCIMsnMSnr3TNwY8RgfRi8lM-5QXjhBNvO-9l/s320/IMGP2674.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Odori Koen flowers</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9SRjomA-ah8-O3HC5pBCzN2g0opxTuGzlfWaQ9_w077z7fmmFIjKdfKvS_73wjSdN3kqgz9sIfoUMnKvP_Bk1RtDjPpH3onxGC643gQ943_EIWKS3z7v9IUdfs_Q0zfOGdJyx-Vbl5UU/s1600/IMGP2717.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9SRjomA-ah8-O3HC5pBCzN2g0opxTuGzlfWaQ9_w077z7fmmFIjKdfKvS_73wjSdN3kqgz9sIfoUMnKvP_Bk1RtDjPpH3onxGC643gQ943_EIWKS3z7v9IUdfs_Q0zfOGdJyx-Vbl5UU/s320/IMGP2717.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Otaru canal</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixz68UQlzAyhbPHkXVXfviQllgOw5d8Z15ag1NFb18I6a4j4PONdeKfyx22eZvdkQgQN6ltfBXjIjciHK3zc8tEu1qwYehAHCop8QS4hyphenhyphenCSVjemUGl1rCqp6nln43HtYg0Op3sskoFOuee/s1600/IMGP2761.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixz68UQlzAyhbPHkXVXfviQllgOw5d8Z15ag1NFb18I6a4j4PONdeKfyx22eZvdkQgQN6ltfBXjIjciHK3zc8tEu1qwYehAHCop8QS4hyphenhyphenCSVjemUGl1rCqp6nln43HtYg0Op3sskoFOuee/s320/IMGP2761.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shukutsu wharf</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr5tFWTf5JLLorCOAxsfUVwCB6shCv-i_Ui-QddJNd7UshI9VgcD9lmM0bExarGy5R161D8FHubQchkQLk1KeTHOPfshAY0aVji3vJOpe1Dxl6U1sDMx1Ov13cVICMYBzd8NB46NqrB7R-/s1600/IMGP2788.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr5tFWTf5JLLorCOAxsfUVwCB6shCv-i_Ui-QddJNd7UshI9VgcD9lmM0bExarGy5R161D8FHubQchkQLk1KeTHOPfshAY0aVji3vJOpe1Dxl6U1sDMx1Ov13cVICMYBzd8NB46NqrB7R-/s320/IMGP2788.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishermen's dormitory, Shukutsu</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieLbNkfuU4wUtBNv9OVs8LhUVCvZ0jGir4miA_vwa0urAfc3uB5EsVTekfJR1x9l41ioUTCfxXVpZV_BfBs_8zqHyCePL29Y_NlmPengRtaaj4Lg2zHjqohauHQnnYkQeOM0FNNmoeJff3/s1600/IMGP2777.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieLbNkfuU4wUtBNv9OVs8LhUVCvZ0jGir4miA_vwa0urAfc3uB5EsVTekfJR1x9l41ioUTCfxXVpZV_BfBs_8zqHyCePL29Y_NlmPengRtaaj4Lg2zHjqohauHQnnYkQeOM0FNNmoeJff3/s320/IMGP2777.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grilled herring, Shukutsu</td></tr>
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<h4>
6 July - Sapporo to Furano</h4>
We check out and head for the station, buying sandwiches for the trip, and an expensive espresso from a flash cafe (Y600 ea, about $7.50). It’s a cheap ($25) bus ride to Furano in the ski fields of central Hokkaido, turned vegetable gardens and lavender farms for the summer.<br />
<br />
Furano is another large-ish modern utilitarian town. And HOT! Did I mention that the ‘cool’ summer weather since we arrived in Hokkaido is about 10 deg above average due to a heatwave? Don’t think I’ll be needing the jacket I brought … Our accommodation is a 10 minute bus ride away, but the next bus is over an hour away, so we resort to a taxi. Kitanomine is a bland ski-resort suburb with an artificial air, but as in Kashmir, another cold, mountainous region, the summer gardens are filled with vegetables. Our guest house is cosy and clean, and nearby is a river and beautiful park. The room is Japanese style with a low table on tatami, to be replaced with a make-your-own futon bed in the evening, and the bathroom is communal.<br />
<br />
We rest in the hot afternoon, then walk down to the river - surprisingly inaccessible - and through an uncharacteristically unkempt end of the park. It’s a lovely spot, and the sun is setting, so we grab takeaway noodle salad and sake from the 7-11 (convenience food here is quite amazing), and picnic in the park as the almost-full moon rises.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7djh5D6LzXAnh9CExhsdsk2agzrXR46HzOIj4ukHV-yVrM5JDOhxHYpR6A_HBa0hmSDVs2FnyVtPcm66clhIwC9xgNClZgkRogqzKh2CFZ3KpcR9CmBBb1JCX89_DIVon7PDRE7E-cDPk/s1600/IMGP2870.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7djh5D6LzXAnh9CExhsdsk2agzrXR46HzOIj4ukHV-yVrM5JDOhxHYpR6A_HBa0hmSDVs2FnyVtPcm66clhIwC9xgNClZgkRogqzKh2CFZ3KpcR9CmBBb1JCX89_DIVon7PDRE7E-cDPk/s320/IMGP2870.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Furano veggie garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wOJI8n8Ehpm2TAkBAEmTlHX-ZivlvyzGWMIvQpIwr1GkZfSpwIdvPb_-w9gcIYfwq22yvQIG2iBCUj3YFXm_3s9XfcvQ_DGRBMqI_dpVE5diUi_HNWYSNCRN3vkLPK3-6eGizqAi2tNc/s1600/IMGP2996.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wOJI8n8Ehpm2TAkBAEmTlHX-ZivlvyzGWMIvQpIwr1GkZfSpwIdvPb_-w9gcIYfwq22yvQIG2iBCUj3YFXm_3s9XfcvQ_DGRBMqI_dpVE5diUi_HNWYSNCRN3vkLPK3-6eGizqAi2tNc/s320/IMGP2996.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to the ski fields from our lodging</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5JaD3LyWefiwWi3o_FpEnkEzwsBHQN0frmD229vMCoouTs8S3rd4CwwOPCIcBf7ibUJTyDlIFdU627BqIhSUL8yIN4jIsK9OxUu3Uix2o3t4qxWLhEfJ7hXevUcpfG20DRuFmcmTZ3_KA/s1600/IMGP2896.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5JaD3LyWefiwWi3o_FpEnkEzwsBHQN0frmD229vMCoouTs8S3rd4CwwOPCIcBf7ibUJTyDlIFdU627BqIhSUL8yIN4jIsK9OxUu3Uix2o3t4qxWLhEfJ7hXevUcpfG20DRuFmcmTZ3_KA/s320/IMGP2896.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picnic park with moonrise</td></tr>
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<h4>
7 July - Furano</h4>
Today we must go and see the famous lavender fields. Say Furano to anyone, they respond ‘Lavender!’ And posters show huge fields of purple, striped with yellow, red and white flower beds. I am familiar with the Japanese propensity to enlarge to mythical proportions quite mundane points of interest (Big Pineapple anyone?), and the lavender fetish is a great example of this, so my expectations are muted. It is more an opportunity to see selfie-mad Japanese tourists in the lavender-scented wild.<br />
<br />
After checking out a bewildering array of bus tours, we aim to keep it simple - public bus to Biei village, then the ‘Lavender sightseeing train' (Norokko-go) to the Tomita Lavender Farm. The train, an old rattler decorated up for the season, has wooden seats and large open windows, but is already packed when we join it, and we get the last window seat, in the sun. Phew! It’s already hot at 10am, the sun rises at 4am.<br />
<br />
The ride is through green farmland interspersed with small towns. Pretty in parts, but no lavender yet. In 30 min we are at Lavender Farm and 100 or so tourists (almost all Japanese) pile off and trundle past melon fields and over the path-less bridge to the farm - an OH & S nightmare. ‘Melon World’ is the first sight that greets us. A giant cartoon melon sign, and accompanying large inflatable, herald a complex of gift shops and snack shops focusing with Japanese intensity on the melon. Newly picked and beautifully packaged specimens are on display (for gifts of course) at $30-$100 each. Or there are melon slices, smoothies, ice creams, cakes … Typically non-compliant, we down a (disgusting) coffee, and head over to the Lavender Farm. Yes, there are a few fields, with pathways between, of lavender and other coloured flowers. No, it is not like the posters, the lavender perhaps not flowering as profusely as usual, or the season is not quite right? Yet there are several dozen tourists braving the heat to wander through taking photos and a thousand selfies (thank goodness for the parasol! So picturesque). Now the gift shop theme is lavender - oils, soaps, bath bombs, potpourri, hats, shirts and parasols … and lavender ice-cream, which we try, and it’s not too bad. A quick stroll through the lavender field then back to the station, Phew it’s hot. A fellow traveller tells us that she went to Australia on her honeymoon, to Sydney and the outback, and it too was hot!<br />
<br />
The best option for dinner after a siesta seems to be another picnic in the park. We are 7-eleven’s best customers. Prawn omelette, bread and salad, with a cheap Bordeaux, except … oh, it’s not omelette, it’s a creamy pasta. What happens when you can’t read the label. Still, it’s tasty :)<br />
<br />
I bathe late in the communal bath, and tonight I am sharing it. Goes without saying that shared nude bathing is a bit strange for me, I wonder if the Japanese ladies find it equally strange to have me there? Of course, they are impeccably polite.<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4PFbIgbWGU27k8xg4SkuHJ4UFh5lBqs-yzQRKQDMUGt1Nk97a-9qgOxfWqUU5r1nd3k0Y6UyXmZTUi1r_ZyZAAgbj65c6hlphGRNRx7e13XVbwo2f65cJyE5nnAj3A06NuEVZSijBHaDb/s1600/IMGP3009.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="941" data-original-width="1422" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4PFbIgbWGU27k8xg4SkuHJ4UFh5lBqs-yzQRKQDMUGt1Nk97a-9qgOxfWqUU5r1nd3k0Y6UyXmZTUi1r_ZyZAAgbj65c6hlphGRNRx7e13XVbwo2f65cJyE5nnAj3A06NuEVZSijBHaDb/s320/IMGP3009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the bus stop</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrjwqUoTyWwlgIaP18LyVA93yy8RgR3hKVGKS6rNhzdWjwkug5lo6eGN-oVSbYB2W426ZJDh8Ilwrq5FqMYevwi_mDnqr4s53GYePoXdPLcRDAXmLxGk1DaioVVPq-p0m91WI5zEt6qQe/s1600/IMGP2910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrjwqUoTyWwlgIaP18LyVA93yy8RgR3hKVGKS6rNhzdWjwkug5lo6eGN-oVSbYB2W426ZJDh8Ilwrq5FqMYevwi_mDnqr4s53GYePoXdPLcRDAXmLxGk1DaioVVPq-p0m91WI5zEt6qQe/s320/IMGP2910.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lavender Train</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjO7PhWDCmtfRbyDixKeWeUq-kdeC-1rm0nkiVI2CymILOn0XFZvQTU5LitRE2L3KxYOxwzmt_9ATHhPVgolW7WIeXxA1xbDOqtnv0BzV8R4XObuUZVCKDUyAPqs_Piq0IzyB4fmpVSBRM/s1600/IMGP2920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1546" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjO7PhWDCmtfRbyDixKeWeUq-kdeC-1rm0nkiVI2CymILOn0XFZvQTU5LitRE2L3KxYOxwzmt_9ATHhPVgolW7WIeXxA1xbDOqtnv0BzV8R4XObuUZVCKDUyAPqs_Piq0IzyB4fmpVSBRM/s320/IMGP2920.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melon World</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquWlKx3Fn1plS-a78g1YR0lt6i160J3xXCdRA12i2ammAbxEB50qbhzhY3MaU7pfcEfVSFEmuSloObTsV94A6Fplmo9kpGr-AfpVwg1NAASorS5a3u0UuQS5EEVBq2cDb87WhtrqVvWJQ/s1600/IMGP2948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquWlKx3Fn1plS-a78g1YR0lt6i160J3xXCdRA12i2ammAbxEB50qbhzhY3MaU7pfcEfVSFEmuSloObTsV94A6Fplmo9kpGr-AfpVwg1NAASorS5a3u0UuQS5EEVBq2cDb87WhtrqVvWJQ/s320/IMGP2948.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lavender ice cream</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtR7qP41LyB_VSqbGUd5_-V5-SpLA5biMt9zQmmIJt_JxThRVy_l2WticWgqMV7xEQmgXGWPRaKjKJIQFEGqen8tHlHodQm3fjsw45X2Fe1HR9f9SkMvfksoZGIPS6CMmJqZTJNl8qiTQM/s1600/IMGP2952.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtR7qP41LyB_VSqbGUd5_-V5-SpLA5biMt9zQmmIJt_JxThRVy_l2WticWgqMV7xEQmgXGWPRaKjKJIQFEGqen8tHlHodQm3fjsw45X2Fe1HR9f9SkMvfksoZGIPS6CMmJqZTJNl8qiTQM/s320/IMGP2952.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lavender selfies 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-c6m5-5OlaEM11s5du38a5RWqj2vlQ2lcOrK91IzGSoZg0Lhz8xwQOF8mjNnoYfWHIJqMaFTrqnh3Q1T9DjGBLicPhiZxKVpoFjY9kvB44otBdLiTVnEox4LrdMASBW2aFWFfaUDSzfl/s1600/IMGP2951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1546" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-c6m5-5OlaEM11s5du38a5RWqj2vlQ2lcOrK91IzGSoZg0Lhz8xwQOF8mjNnoYfWHIJqMaFTrqnh3Q1T9DjGBLicPhiZxKVpoFjY9kvB44otBdLiTVnEox4LrdMASBW2aFWFfaUDSzfl/s320/IMGP2951.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lavender selfies 2</td></tr>
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<h4>
HOKKAIDO</h4>
The indigenous people of the northern island of Hokkaido were the Ainu, living relatively unmolested until the mid-19th C, when Japanese mainlanders decided there were resources to plunder (sorry, develop), and that they needed to defend Hokkaido from Russia to the north. By the end of the century Ainu customs and language were banned, and Ainu people were forced to assimilate. While this policy was rescinded in 1998, Ainu culture was not formally recognised until 2008! There are occasional small museums for commemoration of the culture of these original inhabitants, but seems no real enthusiasm for celebration. So unsurprising really, the story of indigenous cultures worldwide. But there is some re-development of Ainu culture and language on the SE coast of Hokkaido, so maybe it can eventually survive ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggdupBkAwGZGsgtamd7FEa_U5JT1wSUHCWDjfHhRYqKcydaafryMhQtit5b9LfKlzgw58EftUdWlk9xBMEmF5B6UctDgHz5iBmymsRUG4NJWMPENV8eziB4VpstEM6j4mg36Xe3eG-tI5M/s1600/IMGP2848.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1372" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggdupBkAwGZGsgtamd7FEa_U5JT1wSUHCWDjfHhRYqKcydaafryMhQtit5b9LfKlzgw58EftUdWlk9xBMEmF5B6UctDgHz5iBmymsRUG4NJWMPENV8eziB4VpstEM6j4mg36Xe3eG-tI5M/s320/IMGP2848.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ainu Museum in Sapporo</td></tr>
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belinda_annhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579717438499929906noreply@blogger.com0