Sunday, May 21, 2023

Vietnam - Reunification Day and the Reunification Express

 DONG HOI

We took the Reunification Express from Danang to Ninh Binh, with a brief stopover at Dong Hoi. Not really on the international tourist trail, it is a buzzing fishing town and seaside resort popular with local tourists, and as it was 'Reunification Day' long weekend, it was heaving! We visited the slightly chaotic market and ate Banh khiao (shrimp pancake) nearby. Later, grilled prawns and oysters at a very no-frills seafood place by the river. Up early for the 7.15 train to Ninh Binh!

On the train ...

Dong Hoi boats

Dong hoi markets

Dong Hoi street

Reunification day!

Dong Hoi street 2

Dong Hoi street 3

Dong Hoi street 4

Early morning train ...

NINH BINH

We stayed at Tam Coc by the lake, just out of town, which for some reason I thought would be quiet rural backwater, but it is tourist central, very popular with local tourists and backpackers. The 'homestays' along the lake are nevertheless very pleasant, and it's easy to take a boat trip up the river, or hire a bicycle for the day and explore the extraordinary local landscapes. We found the BEST roast duck restaurant too!
Temple ceremony

Bicycle ride 1

Bicycle ride 2

By the river

At the pagoda

At the pagoda 2

Tourist advice

At the pagoda 3

Tourist boats, Tam Coc lake

At the lake ...

The best roast duck!

At the lake 2

Boating along the river

At the lake 3

At the lake 4


Vietnam - we flew down to Hue ...

 HUE

The old capital is a very lovely town on the banks of the Perfume River, with notable cultural relics that are gradually being restored, and are humming with Vietnamese visitors. The local food is big on yummy chewy dumplings and rolls and dipping sauces, and of course the famous Bun Bo Hue (beef soup) of which sadly we did not find a good example! Our riverfront guesthouse was in the heart of backpacker-land, but a short walk across the bridge was another world, a quiet local village. The river is lined by parkland, but on a sunset walk back from the Citadel it was strangely difficult to find a riverfront beer ... finally did though!

Quiet village over the bridge ...

Quiet village 2

At the Citadel

At the Citadel 2

At the Citadel 3

Perfume River sunset

Beer with sunset view

Breakfast with a view

Pagoda at Hue

Pagoda at Hue 2

Local tourists

Hue street

HOI AN

We took a bus to Hoi An, a few hours south of Hue, another revisit from 13 years ago. We were shocked by the increase in numbers of tourists, international and local - the Old Town and riverside are like a neon-lit Disneyland! But still a very beautiful small town if you avoid those parts, and wander the laneways.

It was too hot and humid to do much walking and exploring, so we signed up for both a Street Food tour and a Cooking class (to Chris's horror!). It was impossible to eat everything from 15 very various street food stops and we had to bring some home for breakfast! For cooking the next day, we visited the amazing local market, then cycled out of town to a neighbouring village, surrounded by market gardens, and cooked stuffed pancakes and spring rolls, and various banana leaf-wrapped delicacies, all of which we ate by the river. So good!

Cooking class!

Hoi An workers

Hoi An market

By the river ...

Hoi An laneway

Hoi An market 2

Tourist boats on the river

Grilled seafood at the market!

Guardian at the Japanese bridge

Hoi An street


Vietnam - first stop Hanoi

So - after a very long break from travelling - we have visited Vietnam for the first time in 13 years. Some revisits, some new visits, some changes, some things the same. This time I have done a lot of reading to understand the history of the country better*. It is long, convoluted and tragic history, and it is some kind of miracle that 'reunification' seems to have worked as well as it has. Having said that - it is perplexing that the pain and trauma of extended war followed by the Communist takeover in 1975 seem to have resulted in a system in which capitalism has triumphed, and social and wealth inequality are as entrenched as ever ...

Jazz club, French Quarter, Hanoi

Street seller on Bun cha street

Our hotel (Chris at table on right!)
By the lake ...

HANOI

Oddly not a busy as in 2010, which was a Festival for Hanoi's 1000 year anniversary, and forced us to escape to the mountains. But still very busy and buzzing, and sadly far more polluted than we remembered. We stayed south of historic Hoan Kiem Lake, in the French Quarter, a tranquil respite from the chaos of the Old Quarter to the north. On weekends, roads around the lake are blocked to traffic, and locals are out in droves with their  families, kids scooting around in miniature motorised police cars, fire engines and army tanks (!?)


Uncle Ho

Hanoi street

By the lake 2

View from our balcony


Hanoi street 2

By the lake 3

By the lake 4

By the lake 5

Family day!

* Reading:

  • The Sympathizer - Viet Thanh Nguyen
  • A Wavering Grace - Gavin Young
  • The Quiet American - Graham Greene
  • Hanoi Adieu - Mandaley Perkins
  • You don't belong here - Elizabeth Becker
  • The Mountains Sing - Nguyen Phan Que Mai